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Bobcat 896.. I don't have any control lights come. On when I turn the key switch on. Checked all relays and fuses, getting power to them but no panel lights to even try to start

I don't have any control lights or panel lights come on when I turn the key switch on. I've checked all the fuses and relays and there all good and I have power coming to them but still nothing when I turn the key on.

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  • 435 Answers

Check your ignition switch. There is an electrical component that turns on some electrical stuff when you turn the key to accessory. I had a similar problem once. Do not confuse the key locking mechanism with the switch.

Posted on Mar 29, 2014

Testimonial: "How would you check it or do you know if I can jumper it out to eliminate it?"

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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sonisetnom
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SOURCE: Battery shows charge, but will not run???Could it be the electrical bicycle control?? It's model # is HB2430-TYC4-f8 or fS it's 24 volt made in 3/25/08. I've checked all the wiring and it

test the motor with your own battery. connect the battery directly to the motor if that work is the controller, easy.

Posted on Oct 29, 2012

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Bobcat 553 f - traction lock problem...help

sounds to me like a bad connection or a weak solenoid causing the voltage drop. a good alt charges at 14.25-14.50. it takes voltage to open solenoids not close them.

Posted on Sep 05, 2009

ftw1952
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SOURCE: 97 Cat 426C IT ser#

take an ohm meter to the ignitions wiring tro check for a short. a fuseable link may be inside of one wire especially to the starters solenoid. All cars have these links to protect the wiring from fires starting

Posted on Aug 28, 2010

mc1bean
  • 3053 Answers

SOURCE: I've replaced the batteries and

Hello, I believe what the problem is, in your throttle switch or more often the connection to your battery, even though your battery might be good, bad or loose connection can cause this. Most electric toy cars, go carts, buggies, and other similar electric toys, all operated on a electrical switch mechanism. They are effective when working, but unfortunately from my experience poorly built, meaning they wear out real easy. When working properly, you press the pedal, activates the electrical circuit by way of the switch. Think of the switch as like the ignition on a automobile. It works kind of the same method.

I believe personally it is in your connection to your battery. However here is what did here to help you out. I have put to REAL GOOD links to help you. One link is to the sight, which shows you parts and cost for parts, and on same site i gave you the link that takes you to the Ground force trouble shooting guide of possible problem and solution based on the symptom. I think this will help you. Links are below and please copy and paste them in your browser and let me know if anything else i can help you with. Thanks Mike

http://www.razorama.com/razor-ground-force-drifter-parts-section.html

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/razorama/GFtroubleshooting.pdf


Thanks Again, Mike , (Fiya Expert.)
mc1bean_112.jpg

Posted on Aug 02, 2011

adamfjeld
  • 1508 Answers

SOURCE: Power Wheel won't run. Jumpered the motors which are good and all switches check out fine. Any suggestions?

first of all check for at least 12 volts from the battery and the charger, you can test this using a multimeter

Posted on Jun 14, 2012

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Nissan avenir dash lights


There is a fuse for the warning lights and gauges. Yes, you checked the fuses and relays, but you need to check if power is there at the fuse, with the key in the on position.

Here's how turning the key to on causes the warning lights and gauges to turn on: From your ignition switch the on or run wire out of it will have power with key on. The run wire will also send power to the part of the fuse panel that is of the category "hot in run or on", where your fuse for the dash warn. lts. & gauges is- it may be labeled "meter" or "gauges" or like that. From the fuse, a hot wire goes into the harness for the instrument cluster-for the warning lights and gauges. The wire, like the fuse, is only hot in on or run.

The ignition's run wire may splice with a direct connection to some fuses, or more likely there may be an "ignition relay" that powers the "hot in run or on" fuses, and the run wire is used to turn the relay on. You could look for this relay just above or around the fuse panel under the dash. But the easiest place to start is to see if the fuse for the gauges has power to it with the key in on. If it does, the problem is up further on at the cluster connection or a ground for the gauges and cluster. If the fuse has no power available, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. That could be a faulty ignition relay.

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It sure would help. In fact, it may be necessary: check for a repair manual for your car at local libraries, or buy one, or register for free at autozone.com, listing make, model, year, and engine size. Their site has repair guides and wiring diagrams-although maybe not complete.
One thing I can help you with: the key switch would turn on the warning lights, and would make the wipers have power to the fuse panel. Check for an ignition relay right around the fuse panel. Some models have the ignition on-wire turn on the ignition relay to send power to some fuses of the fuse panel.
Now the headlights and tail lights do not go through the ignition switch. The headlight switch gets power from either a maxi-fuse or a fuse link just off the battery, and is or should be hot at all times, unlike the accessories which only have power when the key is on.
Like you, I don\'t know how your Isuzu is wired, just kind of stabbing in the dark. You really do need a wiring diagram. Sorry, can\'t help you, so I\'ll just shut up, but good luck with it.

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You need to see a wiring diagram to see how the ignition switch allows or sends power to that 30 amp fuse. The switch may turn on a relay (maybe the ignition relay) that sends power to the fuse panel. Or the run wire out of the switch may itself turn power on at the fuses. You may have a loose connection behind the fuse panel.
Get a test light, pull the fuse, and check for power at the fuse terminals, with key on. One terminal for the fuse should have power. If not, power is lost between the ignition switch and that fuse. If it does have power, and windows still don't work, check the wire from fuse panel to the master switch-loose or poor connections, maybe a partially broken wire. If it looks good, check the ground wire for the windows. The ground wire originates at the master switch and will go back into the cabin to a nearby ground, possibly behind the left kick panel. If still no help, someone may need a volt- ohmmeter to start checking continuity of wires, voltage drops, etc.

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If by lights, you mean the dash lights come on, then ignition switch must be getting power. If dash is not working with key on, check the 30 amp fuse link which powers the ignition switch.
If switch is good and starter is good, the start wire from switch goes to, if automatic, to inhibitor relay (the park/neutral function) and then to starter. There is also an inhibitor switch on the shifter or on the transaxle that turns on the inhibitor relay when key is on and shifter in park or neutral. The inhibitor switch is powered by a 10 amp fuse D.
If you have a manual transmission, the start wire from ignition switch goes to the clutch interlock relay and then to the starter. This relay is turned on by the clutch interlock switch on the clutch pedal.
You can check for power on either relay, the inhibitor relay or the clutch interlock relay, with a test light. Pull the relay out, have the key held in start position. Now both relays would have power showing on two terminals where the relay plugs in. If inhibitor relay only has power on one terminal or no power at all, either ignition switch is not sending power or fuse D is out or the inhibitor switch is not working right. If clutch interlock switch does not have power on two terminals either the ignition switch is not sending power or the clutch interlock switch is bad.
If the relay checks are good, check for power on the small wire to starter with key held in start. If you have power there, the starter solenoid must be out.

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This is actually a timed circuit but I don't have the exact location of the relay that controls it. Normally it would be a relay located on or near the interior fuse panel or one in the power distribution box under the hood. It should actually only keep the power on for about 5 min and is meant to save fuel and keep you from running your battery down at the same time. Now as far as what could be the problem, I would look at the relay and the door dome light activators. If one of those is shorted then it will short that as well. They control the power to the dome light also if the light switch is locked in the always on position or always off, controlling the dimming of the dash lights, it will effect the working of that circuit.

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