Question about Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load Washer
Dryer does not start. all lights to the right, ie. drying, cooling down, press saver, etc., flash and beep 3 times, all at the same time and does not start
Some of these dryers have a fuse on them , I think that what it is or bad switch so ck for power to it ,
Posted on Mar 28, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
try tripping your circet breakers dont assume that just because it lights up both lines are working you can have a partial tripped breaker and just be getting 110 to the drier its easy enough to just go ahead and reset the breakere if that dont work get back to me
Posted on Dec 28, 2007
SOURCE: Whirlpool duet dryer
The dryer uses multiple thermostats to regulate the temperature. When the temperature is higher than the preset limit of a particular thermostat, the thermostat breaks the circuit and the heater goes off. When the temperature cools enough, the thermostat closes the circuit again and the heat can come on.
Most dryers have a choice of temperature settings, therefore a separate thermostat is used for each setting. The selector switch or timer control then routes the circuit through the appropriate thermostat.
If a thermostat fails, it may prevent the heat from coming on, This happens because the thermostat does not close the circuit when the temperature falls below the operating temperature of the switch. It is a simple matter to test a thermostat; it should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature.
A thermostat can also fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater would not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used, a thermal fuse. The power will be cut to the heating circuit if the maximum safe temperature is exceeded. In most cases, this is a one time fuse. The heater circuit will not function until the fuse has been replaced. Of course, it will be necessary to determine and repair the underlying cause of overheating or the fuse will just cut out again.
The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.
Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or change.
To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multitestester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.
Click Here to Order a Multitester from Ace Hardware
Hope this may help you;
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Posted on Sep 09, 2008
When you press the start button, the computer runs through a self-diagnostic prior to actually starting the wash cycle. The initial diagnostic has shown that the door latch assembly has failed and should be replaced.
The part number is 8182634 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer or online where you can shop around for the best price.
The repair is very easy. With the door open look at the 6:00 o'clock position of the door boot. Lift up the rubber a bit and you'll see a spring in there... the spring on either end is connected to a steel band. With a pair of needle nose pliers, grasp one end of the steel band where it's connected to the spring and pull down and toward you. Now completely remove the band and set aside.
With a "Torx" bit, remove the 3 screws from the door latch located at the 3:00 o'clock position. Now, starting again at the 3:00 position, ease the boot off of the lip of the washer front. Pull just enough to gain access to the latch. Now reach inside and pull the latch out through the opening.
Remove the 3 wire looms from the old latch and install them on the new one. Now tuck the new latch back into the machine and hold it in position while re-installing the screws you remove earlier.
Replace the boot carefully. Make sure that it fits back over the lip EVENLY. Now re-install the steel band making sure to position the spring back at the 6:00 o'clock position.
There ya go! It's fixed! Thanks for using FixYa.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
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Hello ljdixon226 - From what you have described the unit could possibly have a communication problem with the control panel. However, if the unit is not producing any heat please have a professional diagnose the heating element and the blower assembly as well. Either, or, could be faulty at this time. This is not a typical DIY job so please consult a professional.
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