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Heating element will not heat up

I have checked the complete system, sensors, wires, switches etc.. The heating element is getting power to all 3 terminals and it will not heat up.

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  • Expert
  • 361 Answers

Hold a lighter to it and see if it lights then if so it is bad

Posted on Mar 28, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 641 Answers

SOURCE: heating element doesn't heat

Well done !

Posted on Aug 04, 2007

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Need a diagram to change heating element and sensors

unplug the drier pull it out from the wall about a foot facing the drier take a small putty knife and insert it about 3" from the edge push the knife in till you feel the spring clip push in on it and lift the top then repeat that on the other side fold the top back till it leans against the wall look in the drier on the front edge of the front door panel there are two 5\16 in screws there remove them and un plug the light switch and the door switch assembly .grasp the front door panel and give it a quick snap forward to disengage the retaining clips and the door from the drum remove the door .Lay on the floor reach in and remove the belt from the idler pulley and blower motor pulley .Then while standing at the side of the drier grasp the belt with one hand and the front of the drier drum with the other and **** up sharply on the belt to release the drier drum from the rear drum bearing then remove the drum out the front on the rear you will see the heating element there will be one sensor on the heater pan that's the safety or high limit thermostat the tiny one on the drier body is the thermal overload the one on the vent at the bottom is the operating thermostat but its rare to have a problem with them if the drier is not heating the first thing i recommend is check your voltage and connections and don't assume just because its running its getting full voltage check it with a meter driers will run on 110 but will not heat without 220

Posted on Mar 10, 2008

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110 Heating Element & Thermostat

believe that model has a relay under console..pull console end caps off remove screw on each end roll console back..if your model has an electronic bd it also has a heat relay it will be the one with 2 large red wires.. a quick ck would be to unplug power remove the red wires and tape bear ends together pug back up turn on dryer if it heats unplug and exchange the 2 relays the one with the blue wires is the motor relay and is same as heat relay try again if motor fails to start bad relay if motor starts bad control bd

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: the wires on my heating

the 2 wires that go to the element are largest. Does not matter which one goes where. The other 2 wires are smaller and imposible to get on the wrong terminal.

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

  • 1070 Answers

SOURCE: AMANA dryer model ALE643RBW burnt wire

I would think that:

Low voltage. A lack of proper voltage increases the current flow (amps) and can cause overheating, thus, a burnt wire. Remember, the lower the voltage, the higher the amps.

Bad connection. Poor connections can cause small amounts of arcing, thus burning the connection. This adds resistance to the circuit which causes a possible voltage drop and, again overheating due to higher amps.

Since all that equipment is on the same circuit, I would really think it is a voltage drop situation. With everything calling for power at the same time, the breaker trips. In some cases, it may be just enough for the breaker not to trip but still have a low voltage situation.

There is the possibility of an over current, such as a power spike from the power company but it would have to happen more than just a time or two.
And the outside chance that lighting got into the system when it struck something close to you home but it, in almost every case, would destroy something else, usually electronic. (This has happened to me. Trashed my dryer, dishwasher, and answering machine.)

Good luck and hope this helps. Le me know how you come out.

Posted on May 11, 2009

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1 Answer

Water not heating! is it element? how do i get to it?


The easiest way is the system of elimination. Professional way by measuring the resistance, current and voltage.
Could be: faulty power board (completly or only relay for heating element), faulty wiring between heating element and power board, faulty heating element (interruption, short circuit or current leakage,on some heaters faulty thermal protection)

Dado

May 14, 2015 | AEG Dishwashers

Tip

OVEN WILL NOT HEAT


If you have a electric oven or a gas oven that won't heat or doesn't heat properly, here are some things you will need to check. The most likely cause of a oven not heating correctly is a defective heating element. You have two types of heating elements in your oven. The bottom element(s) are the baking elements. The element(s) on the top are the broil elements. If you don't see the bright red glow from the element, chances are they are not working or not working correctly. If a heating element is bad, you need to replace the entire element. If your oven is warm and not correctly hot, one of the elements may be bad. In most ovens, when you preheat, both elements are used. This would make the oven to appear like it is working correctly but it is not. If the elements are not working, they might not be getting power. Test the wires to the elements with a voltage meter to make sure they are getting power before you decide to change them out. Many electrical ovens have a sensor that monitors the oven temperture. Ovens that have this sensor usually contain a digital display on the oven. The sensor could be defective. Those without the sensor use the basic mechanical system to control the oven temperature. You also want to check the thermostat sensing bulb. Make sure the bulb is good and has not come loose. Now, if you have a gas range oven that doesn't heat properly, first, you want to check your bake igniter. It may have burned out or it could be not working properly. It will be located near your burner. It is also possible that you are not getting gas to the burner. If so, it may be the gas safety valve or the igniter. You need to check your selector switch and thermostat as well. They may be defective. Always make sure you test the parts for power with a voltage meter of some type before you decide to change the part. If you have a part that appears to not be working, it may not be getting power because of a bad wire or broken connection. Thank you for your time and thanks for choosing FixYa.

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Jenn air gas oven won't light off/heat up


Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. you have a electric oven or a gas oven that won't heat or doesn't heat properly, here are some things you will need to check. The most likely cause of a oven not heating correctly is a defective heating element. You have two types of heating elements in your oven. The bottom element(s) are the baking elements. The element(s) on the top are the broil elements. If you don't see the bright red glow from the element, chances are they are not working or not working correctly. If a heating element is bad, you need to replace the entire element. If your oven is warm and not correctly hot, one of the elements may be bad. In most ovens, when you preheat, both elements are used. This would make the oven to appear like it is working correctly but it is not. If the elements are not working, they might not be getting power. Test the wires to the elements with a voltage meter to make sure they are getting power before you decide to change them out. Many electrical ovens have a sensor that monitors the oven temperture. Ovens that have this sensor usually contain a digital display on the oven. The sensor could be defective. Those without the sensor use the basic mechanical system to control the oven temperature. You also want to check the thermostat sensing bulb. Make sure the bulb is good and has not come loose. Now, if you have a gas range oven that doesn't heat properly, first, you want to check your bake igniter. It may have burned out or it could be not working properly. It will be located near your burner. It is also possible that you are not getting gas to the burner. If so, it may be the gas safety valve or the igniter. You need to check your selector switch and thermostat as well. They may be defective. Always make sure you test the parts for power with a voltage meter of some type before you decide to change the part. If you have a part that appears to not be working, it may not be getting power because of a bad wire or broken connection.

Jun 13, 2011 | Jenn-Air Ovens

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Get error message F5 about 3 minutes into the cycle, have to reset multiple times to override


F-5 Water temp sensor failure
If during the water heating step in the wash cycle, the water
temperature sensor (NTC) value is out of range, the "F/05" error code
will be displayed. Possible cause/procedure:
1. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
2. Check the water temperature sensor. Refer to the
"Water Temperature Sensor" section. Check
connections to the water temperature sensor.
3. Check resistance of heating element, if present on this
model. (abnormal = infinity)
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I have a service manual and some repair photos HERE


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Feb 12, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My dryer is no longer heating up and it does not time out, what parts would i need to fix the problems?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Feb 27, 2010 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

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No heat in dryer model # 96591420


Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Jul 31, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

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My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

4 Answers

Powers on wont heat lg dle2532w


better to unplug the unit for an hour.

Mar 23, 2009 | LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer

1 Answer

2002 Grand Cherokee Heated Seats don't work


I will post it in 2 different posts because its too long DB

HEATED SEAT SYSTEM
Individually controlled driver and passenger side electrically heated front seats are available factoryinstalled optional equipment on this model, when it is also equipped with the power seat option. The heated seat system allows both the driver and the front seat passenger the option to select one of two seat heating ranges, Low or High, or to turn the individual seat heaters OFF using the heated seat switches located in the center lower bezel near the bottom of the instrument panel center stack. The heated seat switch circuit operates on ignition switched battery current supplied through a fuse in the junction block, only when the ignition switch is in the ON position.

The heated seat system consists of the following components
  • Heated seat elements
  • Heated seat sensors
  • Heated seat module (or memory heated seat module)
  • Heated seat switches.
The heated seat system also relies upon resources shared with other electronic modules in the vehicle over the Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) data bus network. The PCI data bus network allows the sharing of sensor information. This helps to reduce wire harness complexity, internal controller hardware, and component sensor current loads. At the same time, this system provides increased reliability enhanced diagnostics, and allows the addition of many new feature capabilities. For diagnosis of these electronic modules or of the PCI data bus network, the use of a DRB scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures are recommended.

The electronic modules that may affect heated seat system operation are as follows:
  • Body Control Module (BCM) - Refer to Body Control Module in Electronic Control Modules for more information.
  • Heated Seat Module (HSM) - Refer to Heated Seat Module in Electronic Control Modules for more information.
  • Memory Heated Seat Module (MHSM) - If the vehicle is equipped with the Memory System, refer to Memory Seat Module in Electronic Control Modules for more information.
Refer to Power Seats Premium I/III in the Contents of Wiring Diagrams for complete circuit diagrams. Following are general descriptions of the major components in the heated seat system.

The heated seat system will only operate when the ignition switch is in the ON position, and the surface temperature at the front seat heating element sensors is below the designed temperature set points of the system. The heated seat system will not operate in ambient temperatures greater than about 41 °C (105 °F) . The front seat heating elements and sensors are hard wired to the Heated Seat Module (HSM) or the Memory Heated Seat Module (MHSM).

The heated seat switches are hard wired to the Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM monitors the heated seat switch inputs, then sends heated seat switch status messages to the HSM or MHSM over the Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) data bus. The HSM or MHSM contains the control logic for the heated seat system. The HSM or MHSM responds to the heated seat switch status messages, ignition switch status messages, and the front seat heating element sensor inputs by controlling the output to the front seat heating elements through integral solid-state relays.

When a seat heater is turned ON, the sensor located on the seat cushion electric heater element provides the HSM or MHSM with an input indicating the surface temperature of the seat cushion. If the surface temperature input is below the temperature set point for the selected Low or High heated seat switch position, the HSM or MHSM energizes the integral solid-state relay, which supplies battery current to the heating elements in the seat cushion and back. When the sensor input indicates the correct temperature set point has been achieved, the HSM or MHSM de-energizes the solid-state relay. The HSM or MHSM will continue to cycle the solid-state relay as needed to maintain the temperature set point.

The HSM or MHSM and the seat heater elements operate on non-switched battery current supplied through the power seat circuit breaker in the junction block. However, the HSM or MHSM will automatically turn OFF the heating elements if it detects an open or short in the sensor circuit, a short or open in the heating element circuit causing an excessive current draw, or when the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position.

See the owner's manual in the vehicle glove box for more information on the features, use and operation of the heated seat system.

I WILL POST THE REST

Jan 31, 2009 | 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Hotpoint ew83 main oven stopprd heating, fan and light ok but no heat from element


Hotpoint EW83

1. Safety Fusible Link Blown (O/C) Do continuity test
2. Temperature Control Module Faulty (Heat Sensor)
3. Main Heating Element Blown (O/C) Do Continuity Test
4. Check for damaged wiring due to arcing etc.
5. Fetch the Proff!

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