Question about Whirlpool Microwave Ovens
Will changing the contact fix the problem?
Check for diodes that are fixed parallel to the coil of that Relay.
It can be replaced with IN4007.with correct polarity
Posted on May 18, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Microwave quit
I would suspect either door switches or an intermittent control circuit board, either of which can be repaired. Opening the door while cooking (without first hitting the STOP pad) is the primary cause of door switch failure over time. I have a text file on my site called "doorsw.txt" which helps in diagnosing and repairing door switch problems. You can find the file via a Google search. It will help you check and replace the door switches if you or an able friend is so inclined. In some cases, the problem is a bad connection or a bad relay on the control board. That's something we see fairly often, and we repair them for only $32.50 nationwide.
Posted on Oct 12, 2006
The problem is most likely the magtube, it takes aprox 3 sec for the tube to energize and then it kills the microwave. If you drop the control panel away and start the microwave 90% of the time it will cook fine.
Posted on May 16, 2007
SOURCE: Microwave cuts out after 23 secs
In most cases, this is a problem with the inverter or a bad magnetron.
Due to the lethal voltages used and produced, I do not recommend that an inexperienced person work on these.
I would recommend that you contact your nearest Panasonic-authorized servicer. You can find one here:
Posted on Dec 17, 2007
could it be that i didn't follow the manuel because i got it second hand or is it because something is wrong with it,and i have to get it fixed.
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
first thing I would suggest is a hard
reset. Unplug the unit for a
minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again.
If that doesn't work, leave it unplugged for about 5 minutes.
Otherwise, this is almost always due to a defective or loose magnetron causing electrical interference and disruption in the control circuit board.
Details covering some previous models are in their bulletin here. Even if your model is not on the list, the same problem can occur.
If your magnetron was recently replaced, it may have loose mounting nuts or bolts or maybe the wire mesh RF gasket was not installed or got pinched.
NOISY MAGNETRON TEST (c) 2009 William E. Miller email@example.com
(PLEASE do not be fooled into thinking that the procedure outlined at this link is a "fix". It should only be regarded as another test method to prove that you have a noisy magnetron which must be replaced.)
One way to test it is to do the following:
1. Unplug the microwave or turn off its breaker.
2. Open the door, then detach the control panel as shown in the video at http://www.microwavedisplay.com and swing it down, but without disconnecting the wires. If you have any trouble getting the grille off once the screws are removed, slide the hood vent grille to the left about 1/4", then then pull it forward. On some models there are L-shaped clips that fit into a slot to hold bottom of the vent.
3. Plug the microwave back in.
4. Make sure neither you nor anyone else reaches in behind the control panel. There will exposed high-voltage connections.
5. Put a few cups worth of water in a microwave-safe container and place it inside the microwave.
6. Shut the door.
7. Run the microwave for about 1 minute or so on full power. (Time Cook > 1 > 0 > 0 > Start, e.g.)
8. If it does not fail, try it several more times.
9. When the water boils, change the water and try again.
NOTE: If your model does not have a door handle, you will need to unplug the oven and reattach the control panel to be able to open the door.
If it still does not fail, I would recommend that you put it all back together and keep using it until it fails more consistently, then repeat this test.
If it keeps failing while the board is in the down position, you either have a very leaky magnetron or possibly another problem.
So you can then get a Ziploc bag and insert a flat piece of aluminum foil into the Ziploc and close it.
Then (with the power off) tape it over the circuit board as best you can, covering it as much as you can, making sure it does not get snagged or punctured.
Then try the oven again. Do not leave this test shield in place as a "fix". It is not safe.
While a microwave should never be left running unattended under any circumstances (as your owner's manual will tell you) it's even more important when one is exhibiting a failure or any odd behavior. So play it safe and stay with it while it's running!
If you or someone you know want to replace the magnetron yourself, you will need to remove the oven from the wall.
If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.
There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
If it's within the magnetron portion of the warranty (usually 5-9 years) but out of the original full warranty (usually 1 year), then your manufacturer will cover the part cost, but not the cost to visit you or the labor charge to do the work.
Sometimes they will send you the magnetron to do it yourself. Call them at 888-239-6832.
Be persistent. You may have to speak with a supervisor.
If it is not within the magnetron warranty, you can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
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It sounds like the magnetron may have
either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high
voltage required to run it.
SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT
This is a job for a professional but if
you are safety clued up, here's instruction.
Make sure the !!!!capacitor is discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the door interlock switches first then the high voltage diode with either an AVO model 8 or moving coil meter on high resistance range for short circuit, (DVM's won't show the fault!), the capacitor can fail and go short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
Hope that helps.
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