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Go from garage to inside family room for for a new plug outlet. There is an outlet in the garage for easy outlet fix.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
We had same problem with different fridge. Is the fridge cooling things? When ours did that we needed to replace the relay overload start capacitor it's called a three in one. It acts like a giant battery to give your compressor a n extra boost to get started runs about 25 bucks relatively easy fix only has three wires to connect
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
If there is a switch on your hose, it may be broken.
Your system powers on from the inlets via two low voltage wires that run from the inlets to the switch/relay at the power unit. Each inlet has 2 spring loaded pins attached to the low voltage wires. In the photo below you should see these pins at the bottom of the opening, just above the door hinge. The receptacle at the top of the inlet in this photo supplies 110 volts to power your power nozzle. Not all inlets have this option, but if yours does, exercise extreme caution. Your hose must have a completely metal end or if it is a plastic end, it must have a metal band in order to short the 2 low voltage wires together to trigger the switch.
You can manually short the two low voltage pins together by using a metal pipe or needle nose pliers, just touch both pins at the same time. CAUTION: stay away from the 110 volt receptacle if present.
If your system powers on with this manual method then it would seem that the problem is in your hose.
If your system does not power on; your low voltage wires may be disconnected from the power unit or disconnected somewhere else . It's also possible that you have a bad circuit/controller board in the power unit.
Posted on May 22, 2010
The vacuum has a standard tube internal fuse. If you are lucky that is all it is. See the site http://www.sannerud.com/house/miele.html for instructions on how to open it up.
hope that helps
Posted on Aug 11, 2010
SOURCE: How do I fix the electrical outlets in our family room? The room has 5 outlets, one of which works. The other four have no electricity. I replaced one outlet but that did not correct the problem
Check for any tripped breakers. Make sure a wall switch is not controlling any of them or that they are not on a GFCI circuit. If all OK, turn power off to outlet that works. Remove the covers from each outlet, and pull the outlets out of each box as far as you can, but leave the wires attached to the plug, making sure none of the wires contact any part of the box if its metal. Look at the wires attached at each outlet if they are not attached to the side screw terminals, but rather pushed into the back instead, note the way each is attached, then either cut them off as close to the plug as you can or pull them out of the back. Now reattach them in the correct place but put them on the screw terminals instead. Make sure all wires are secure. Turn on the power and carefully test each outlet for power. If they all work, turn off power, replace everything and your good. If still no power at any of them determine which outlet(s) have only one cable entering the box. The boxes with one cable will either be on its own circuit, or the last one in the run. The boxes with 2 at least 2 cables will be the middle of the run and one of those will be the one with the power supply for all of the others. If you don't have a signal tracer try locating tracing the wires from the 2 wired boxes in the basement, one of those wires is the feed and could be disconnected at a junction box or at the service panel.
Posted on Mar 21, 2015
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Sep 20, 2014 | Electric Electrical Supplies
Jan 23, 2011 | GE Hammering
Limited range of your remote controls
could be related to radio frequency interference that comes from
something in your home or in the surrounding environment. Certain
electrical devices can radiate interference; this could be almost
anything that is plugged into an electrical outlet.
Please keep in mind that the device can
be brand new, or can be an item that has been in use for quite a
while. Also, the item may continue to function properly as far as
you are able to tell. The only problem with the item may be that it
has started to broadcast the interference, with no other symptoms
Some devices are more likely to
generate interference than others. This includes TV cable, cable
amplifiers, surge protectors, fluorescent lights, battery charging
devices (power tools, golf carts, etc.), anything that utilizes a
timer (sprinkler systems, lights, alarm systems, etc.), and a myriad
of others. If the problem seems sporadic, we can safely assume that
the device responsible for the interference is only being operated
during these times. Again, please keep in mind that the age of the
device does not determine if it is capable of broadcasting unwanted
interference. Any electrical device can be the source of the problem.
The first step is replacing the battery
in your remote. If the range on your remote does not improve, remove
the wall control wires from the overhead unit. If the range does not
improve you will likely need to replace the remote control.
To isolate potential sources of
interference, turn the circuit breaker off to the garage and plug the
garage door opener into an extension cord from another room. If the
range improves, then the interference is coming from a device in the
garage. If no improvement is seen follow the same procedure, this
time turning off the circuit breakers to your home, with the
exception of the garage and test the remote controls. If improvement
is noted, turn the circuit breakers back on, one by one, until the
range problem resurfaces. This will allow you to narrow down what
room the problem device is in. You will have to go from there to
isolate it further, by unplugging and re-plugging the items in that
If you are unable to determine any source of interference, then the receiver logic board in the overhead unit will need to be replaced.
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