Question about Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer
I am working on a LTE6234DQ2 whirlpool dryer and it is not heating. All of the thermostats and limits have continuity and i have jumpered them just to be sure. The wires going to the element when removed from element terminals read 240volts, the element itself reads continuity and 12ohms but when you put the wires back on the element terminals and read across them they read 0 volts together and 120volts on each leg to ground. All thermal cut offs and thermostats have voltage on each side while this is going on.
Look at the heating relay.
You might be able to swap the motor relay with the heater relay in the control panel if the are the same.
Posted on May 10, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
if your remove the two wire from the from the thermal sensor that is above the heating element connection and there is no continuity then it needs to be replace and your dryer will heat.
Posted on Nov 14, 2010
in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac
Posted on Jul 20, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 14, 2016 | Whirlpool Dryers
Mar 12, 2014 | Whirlpool Inglis IP8200 Dryer
Jul 14, 2011 | Kenmore 64722 Electric Dryer
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check out this electric no heat tip...
Feb 04, 2011 | Whirlpool LER3624JQ Electric Dryer
Nov 27, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer
Jan 17, 2010 | Dryers
Oct 05, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers
Aug 13, 2008 | Kenmore 75944 Gas Dryer
Jul 28, 2008 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer
41 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: