Question about Kenmore Refrigerators
I suspect your automatic defrost is not working, but it could be other things. I would see if you can find a manual (Google search for your model number manual, or check the manual you go with the refrigerator). If your reefer has diagnostics available (in the user manual) you can test by selecting manual defrost. If I am on the wrong track, you could have problems in the compressor or cooling circuit. Again, your manual should be able to steer you to the culprit, by going through the troubleshooting guide. If you\'re a DIY, you\'ll get into the evaporator, and if the machine has been running, I think you\'ll find it iced up. I\'ve found the defrost thermostat open, or it could be an open heating element. Mine was fixed with a reset... but you\'ve tried that. I hope I\'ve helped steer you in the correct direction.
Posted on Mar 28, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I am assuming you have the ice maker that the tray twists to release the ice. There is a new tray out with a wall to prevent the water spilling over. The part number is
Posted on Jun 03, 2008
majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working. When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve. The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere. Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating. Test And Inspect The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
Need to take the ice maker out to measure the amount of water input into the ice tray. In this case the tray was already full (from the leaking valve). The spillage I saw was just the tray overflowing. Time for a new valve.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
Your refrigerator has a defrost drain blockage behind the evaporator in your your freezer compartment. Some models like yours have leak in the turns as the water leaves the freezer. I recommend that you unplug and remove the cover to the evaporator and check the defrost condensate tray below the evaporator. A wet vacuum cleaner and poring a solution with clorox in the drain will help you clean locate the leak and where the blockage may be downline.. I do have the manual on yours and can help you solve this. Some times this is a factory defect and I can help you solve the freezing drain problem. Let me know, Sea Breeze
Posted on Jul 01, 2009
Your ice-maker may need to be "hard-reset". To do this, perform a manual-defrost by emptying out the freezer (and fridge) and shutting all power off to your unit for several hours (at least half a day unless you can be sure the temp in the freezer has fully reached ambient. Next, with freezer empty, restore power, make sure the "ice" setting is set to off, then set the forced power-freeze mode (you can refill the fridge, but leave the freezer empty for now. When the power-freeze completes (at least 2.5 hours) you can refill the freezer, set the "ice" mode to block/crushed (IE something other than off) and then hit the "black reset button" to restart the ice-maker. IF it still will not dump the cubes then the ice sensor/control board may have failed.
Posted on Sep 24, 2010
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