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Ugh its not fun and takes two people as you have to split the door with several screws and easy hands... take the door off... there's two tabs at the two hinges either slide them forward backwards or some are spring loaded. however get the door off and begin dis assembly preferably on soft surface. pay attention to how things go back together and begin cleaning have fun....
In such a situation replace the spring assembly and shaft that it is attached to. Then determine how many winds you need to add to the windlass for spring tension to get the door to lift. Depending how the door track it is set up the outer wheels that take up the lift cable spool about 16 to 18 inches of cable per revolution. The spring gets tensioned by sticking a length of half inch/13 mm rod into 1 of the 4 tensioning holes of the windlass that are cast into the clamping end of the spring and turning tension onto the spring by way of that windlass to lift the door once the cables are attached to the door and then clamped into the wheels, once the approximately correct lift height has been cranked into the spring.One rod would need to be left in place to hold windlass firm until the set screw is tightened. Then you can put on a hard hat, unlock the door and lift slightly- the rod will fall out if you wound the spring the correct direction.and the door should rise again with ease.
Wife cleaned bathroom shelf dropping the Arcitec. One of 3 heads was not aligned properly, when I tried to re-seat it, this head came apart. To put it back together takes some finesse and patience. Take a coil of stamps, or some other small opening to rest the outer plastic shell head, then insert the metal screen which has notches (2 small, 1 large) and fit it in the plastic shell head. Next put the metal blade assembly on the screen. Next align this on the metal (thin) pivot. When the outer plastic head, and the metal pivot are aligned (small peg holes), you can place the thin inner plastic piece on and gently press your sub assembly and the backing plastic together, It will snap together and hold. Don't FORCE it, the holes must be aligned on the outer plastic, the metal pivot frame, with blades resting on the screen. It does snap together. Work with fairly bright light to see what you are doing. If this fails, invest in a new head assembly for about 15% of the cost of the whole razor.
Did the screw driver make it out? UNPLUG THE WASHER There are 2 screws at the top of the washer that hold the top cover on. remove the screws and SLIDE the top cover back off the washer. This should expose the door lock assembly, down the right side of the door. There is 1 or 2 screws that need removed and then there is enough wiring that you should be able to pulll the switch where you can work on it.
Now here's the hard part. What probably happened was that the actuator was popped out of its cradle, possibly losing its spring tension. There are clips on on half of the plastic covers(2 halves snapped together). VERY carefully separate the assembly watching for a loose or shooting spring popping out of the covers. If the spring is still on the acauator arm, and hooked in place, good. carefully put the arm back in its cradle. hopefully it snaps in so reassembly is MUCH easier. Simply snap th e assembly back to gether. test the arm with your screw driver to make sure it is springy. Re install the lock where you removed it from the door area. Good Luck.
In order to remove the clutch from your bike, you must have a special tool. You'll need H-D #34761 in order to remove the snap ring holding the clutch together.
Disconnect the battery, drain the primary, and remove the primary cover. Once you have the primary cover off, you can remove the nut from the compensator sprocket at the engine end of the primary chain.
Install the H-D 34761 or equivalent tool and compress the clutch spring. Remove the snap ring and then back off on the tool to release the pressure on the clutch spring. Once the pressure has been removed, remove the adjusting screw assembly, the outer clutch spring seats, the clutch spring, the inner clutch spring seat, and the pressure plate.
Then you can disassemble the rest of the clutch. Remove the remove the four friction plates and three drive plates. Then you can remove the spring plate and the remaining plates after that. Remove the snap ring that holds the clutch assembly onto the transmission clutch gear and remove the inner and outer clutch shells, the primary chain, and the engine sprocket as a group.
For this job, I would recommend that you purchase a service manual. It's has pictures that show you what you're dealing with and in this case, a picture is truly worth a thousand words.
Hello- You are on the right track. The hinge assemblies are 'sprung' or bent out of shape. Replacing them is pretty easy, so you can do it yourself. Four screws on each side. Be careful, these springs can snap closed and bite ya. Use the little pins that come with the new set to lock hinge so this doesn't happen. Let me know if this info helps- have more if needed- Thanks- Ed
The cotton bag wraps around the hepa filter - the blue plastic part will not be visible once the bag is in place. The silver ring sits inside the cotton bag to hold the sides of the bag against the sides of the vacuum top-half. DON'T pull the plastic inner seal and outer seal apart. They snap together and snap onto the lip of the vacuum top-half. It's a bit of a struggle snapping the seal back onto the lip.
Sorry i've been doing this a lot of year's and never been able to rewind spring.You're supposed to lock assembly together before removing motor.I almost lost a finger when my first one sprung.never after that.Possible best thing get one from salvag yard or dealer if ya got the extra money.
I had recently put together one that may or may not be the same - the head seperated from the body, and a small spring loaded detent inserts in the backside that "locks" the head at steadily increasing disances (lengths). The hardest part to assemble is the switch: which the outer slider is installed first, then the switch assembly (w/Small printed circuit board ) is slid very deeply into the plastic body of the shaver - you'll see where it locks into place. Then the lower circuit board and prongs attach at the bottom (also you can see where it locks in). Lastly, the battery is installed within its' holder and snaps into the plastic case. The two pars of the cases are then mated and click-lock into place (Think there's a single phillip's screw to keep it locked). Lastly, the blade cover snaps into place from the top, and you should be good to go - I never got to take it apart, but I had to put it back together...I believe that's how it goes, and mine works - there is no allowance for error, and it looks to me that if it's not 100% right it won't go together anyhow - good luck...
ok nice details..all you can do is replace the lock latch,,its not to costly,,change the catch while your there,,,lock part number is,,8181700 and catch part number is 8181651..it will be better just to replace it in the long run ,,,onthejob..