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Remove the bowl, turn it upside down on a towel, look up inside the pedestal. Right in the middle where the hinge pin goes through there is a screw, unscrew it a little, push the hinge pin back to where it belongs and then tighten the screw up tight. Turn mixer up the right way, raise head up, fit bowl & flat paddle. Lower head & turn machine on low, listen for paddle tinging on bowl, if it is touching turn off and raise the head. Look into hinge area from the front, that screw is the head height adjustment. Clockwise to lower paddle in bowl, anti clockwise to raise. You want to lower it until you hear the paddle tinging on the bowl & then raise it enough to clear without tinging. You don't wind the screw in & out huge amounts, 1/4 to 1/2 a turn at a time is plenty.
It's a timing belt, so it isn't supposed to stretch. There is no tension adjustment that I can see. Are the 4 motor screws in place and tight? Is either the motor or the kneading paddle drive shaft turning in its drive wheel? Is the frame bent and causing the belt to walk off one of the pullies? Another problem can be that the bearing in the pan won't turn, then you'll get a loud bump as the drive mechanism tries to turn the paddle in the pan. If this happens, try to free up the paddle by hand so it turns. Then when you bake, always put the oil in the recipe in first and rotate the paddle a few turns to work the oil into the pan bearing. If the oil gets in first, it will keep the water out and the pan will work fine. I've been getting away with this approach for hundreds of loaves.
Anytime you remove the screw you speak of there is a donut washer/seal made of rubber or plastic underneath that must be replaced even if it looks OK to the naked eye. The screw when tightened compresses the washer/seal which is made with a consistency that allows for no residual memory to return to it\'s original shape. The problem (or what makes them work so good) with them is that they form to the underside of the screw and the inside of the screw housing to provide a seal and this formation is basically impossible to place exactly as was when reassembling they fixture. Thus in order to not have it leak the need to make it too tight is prevalent or as you say the handle will turn willy-nilly due to being loose. It is an easy fix and they are cheap. The washer/seals can be purchased at any hardware type store and it should make it easier to tighten properly without your preceding problems.
The bore on the impellar may be worn, if it is it won't tighten properly on the shaft and this will allow it to free spin and not blow the air through the dryer properly. Can be bought as a spare part and are a push fit.
It may not be the motors making the noise, but the blade irons that are attached to the motor are loose and are rubbing the housing.
To confirm this, turn the fans OFF. When the blades stop turning, use a step ladder to reach the fan blades and the blade irons. Using a Phillips head screw driver, attempt to tighten each blade iron screw (2 in each iron), that screws into the fan motor spindle. I suspect, you'll find one or more loose. Especially if, the lock washer wasn't installed on each screw.
Hope this helps you solve the problem. If it doesn't, contact Hunter per the instructions in your Owners Manual. As there is a slim chance that there is a manufacturer's defect involved.
Could be your lifters are loose(Tappits) have a mechanic tighten them down for you, but they have to be at proper tork , If the ticking noise is really loud you also could have a broken connecting arm on one of your pistons, that is very bad, some vehicles can be driven for awhile with that noise, but if it is that your motor is done!
If you can open the walls of the dryer up check all screws and bolts that hold things together. Some times they will vibrate loose causing parts to make a vibrating sound against the frame itself.. Eventually the loose screws will just keep getting looser. Even the screws on the walls of the unit should be tightened That could cause a lot of noise.
not the right method, the paddles are the plastic things inside the metal drum. they are held in by tabs that slide into slots in the drum and a metal tab from the drum flips over a ledge underneath the paddle.
if its loose you may need to replace it, they are available as a spare part and come with instructions. you will need to varify which version you have by counting the bumps on the end of the padle, should be 2 or 3.
basically you put a small screwdriver down on of the holes in the top of the paddle, i think the 3rd one, to push the metal drum tab down enough to be able to pull the paddle towards you and out of it's slots. carefull not to push the tab down too far as it will bend inside the drum and isd pain to bend back again.