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Re: Chain turns then craps out, run hot
I assume it's a petrol driven probaby 2 stroke? if yes then you need a service on the carb & air filter if the engine is going back ok on idle speed.if it does not & goes off when you release the throttle then you may need to check the compression chamber which might have been damaged by not adding stroke oil in the petrol mixture.Hope this helps and is a 2 stroke engine...
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You may have the chain tensioner set a little too tight.
Additional things to check:
The sprocket on the end of the guide bar is greased, and turning smoothly.
The chain brake is working correctly (not dragging or only partially disengaging).
The guide bar is straight, not bent or twisted, burr free, and the groove the chain travels in hasn't been squeezed together.
The chain tension is set correctly.
The chain oiler is functioning correctly (and you have a sufficient amount and correct type of bar oil).
Chain is in good condition, and the correct one for the saw. Make sure all of the links flex smoothly.
Chain is sharp. A dull chain will put more pressure on the guide bar because the cutting teeth aren't digging into the wood efficiently (and usually a person pushes harder on the saw when the chain is getting dull).
Using chain saws takes a bit of getting used to, and it can be DANGEROUS.
- The chain must be sharp to be able to cut properly, and a sharp chain "bites" into the wood.
- Before you touch the chain into the wood, you have to speed up the engine. This takes some getting used to.
- Try this technique: With the chain about an inch above where you want to cut, squeeze the throttle about half way so the chain is spinning. Touch the chain to the wood and increase the engine speed as the chain starts to cut. The harder you cut, the more power you need to apply.
After a while it gets to be second nature.
Work Safe, and get an experienced friend to help with some "hands on" coaching.
First thing is make sure chain brake is not engaged is so equipped. Next make sure that chain tensensioner is not to tight to allow chain to rotate. I wouuld remove bar and chain from saw and spray both several times with WD-40 and work chain link by link until they all move freely.Clean and lube guide channel on bar and make sure that bar is not dented or badly rusted.If all else fails replace bar and chain. Good luck and thank you.
Run 40:1 using fresh fuel and a modern synthetic saw oil--mix it in it's own can and be sure to shake the can thoroughly each time just before refilling the tank. Don't mix up more than a gallon unless your business is sawing. You may need to deal with a plugged fuel filter if it won't start. The oiler button was intended to supplement the pumped bar oil when cutting thick/difficult wood. Normally, it is not needed. To start, set the choke full on until you hear a pop, then back the choke off about half way before the next pull (don't forget to set the fast idle button near the throttle--squeeze the throttle, push the button and hold while releasing the throttle). As soon as you squeeze the throttle again, that will release the fast idle, so make sure the engine is warmed up and the choke off before hitting the throttle. This engine will drive a 16" bar and chain, so upgrade when the original parts wear out. Hope some of this helps!
it could be the air to fule mix wrong but if it runs ok i would take a good look at the chain teeth if there even a little bit blunt take a file to the chain and tuch them up,,,,a blunt chain is very power sucking,,pluss you need to pull the chain through the wood,, a sharp chain dont need to be pulled it will cut well just under its own whaite
White smoke is usually associated with burning antifreeze in an automobile engine, but in this case, trying to cut wet wood might be suspect. The chain must be properly sharpened and the teeth cut toward you on the bottom run of chain. When the chain is properly adjusted, it should not droop from the lower edge of the bar, but no so tight that you can't turn it by hand. Forcing a poor cutting chain into the kerf will overheat the chain and cause it to become loose quickly. Hope this helps!
Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Does the engine have fresh fuel mix? The idle speed screw may need to be adjusted CCW somewhat until the chain ceases to move at idle. Have the H and L jet screws been adjusted? If so, turn both screws CW to stops (lightly), then both turned CCW 1-1/2 turns each. Start the engine and allow to warm up. Open the throttle and turn H CW until the engine speeds up, yet continues to 4-stroke. Proper setting is when the engine 4-strokes, yet immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Let idle, and adjust L until the engine runs fairly smoothly, but will allow the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Hope this helps!
If the brake is not engaged the only thing it could be is the clutch, or the bar. If the bar is burnt or bent from the chain failing off then you will have this problem. But this sounds more like a clutch problem