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Pv10 will not come on. lights flicker for an instant and that is all it does.

Pv10 will not stay on

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Got the right power supply/wall wart?????

Posted on Sep 20, 2014


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Did you check that F1 (red arrows)?. You must open the aluminum cooling in order to find the fuse F1, because it was on the inside, not visible. Usually one of the causes of rupture F1 is one or more diodes (d4/d5/d6/d7) is broken. Check and measure the diode. May also occur, F1 break up just like that, without any other components that causes. This can happen when we open a high level for a long time. It is designed so that the final transistor (which is expensive) not be damaged. Hope it helps. ecae9d89-5530-4ca0-9f14-2f9321ab0aaa.jpg

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Turn it off and leave it off till it is fixed.

There is a problem in the PMP5000 that is LIKELY in the PMP3000 as well.

The problem is arcing in the rear-most power amp near the heatsink.

When this gets bad, it will short out and fry the power supply and the amp if it persists. The arcing will trip the overcurrent sense and shut down the unit including the display until it finally goes completely.

I have repaired two of the 5000's now with identical problem. There is inadequate insulation in a multi-layer board in the rear-most power amp. The arcing occurs between the output lead of the switchers and the source lead circuit trace for the 9640 switcher transistors. The output switcher lead unfortunately is an internal circuit trace and hard to fix. Once burned, the board becomes carbonized and conductive.

NEVER run the unit without a speaker load on the unit.

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