Sounds like your water outlet is clogged. Open the head and push up the cup holder to remove. When out, clean out the tube at the bottom of the holder with a paper clip or something similar (I use a cake tester - long skinny metal rod. This will clean out any clogs in the output path. Also remove the bottom part of the cup holder and clean it too. Put back together and place back in brew head the way it came out. (Caution - some models you have to twist the cup holder to remove, and some it just comes straight out). There are many you-tube videos that will show you this also.
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It sounds like your spout supply nipple has sprung a leak. There isn't much of any other way water can flow between your spout and tile wall. It's pretty important that you don't use the fixture until the problem is fixed. Because the water coming out that you see is also probably flowing into the wall and causing water damage and MOLD. You need to remove the spout and replace the nipple that is supplying the water to the spout. There could be a defect in your spout too, but likelihood of that is less than your nipple threads giving in to some electrolysis from the bronze/copper in the spout or somewhere in your water system. To prevent it from occurring again, use a brass nipple to replace the galvanized nipple in it now. Red brass, no yellow brass. Good luck with your problem and always know where and how to turn your water off to your house before attempting a plumbing repair.. Most spouts screw off. Counter clockwise, use a pair of channel locks by inserting the rubber coated handle into the opening on the spout then using the leverage of the channel locks to unscrew the spout off of the wall. It is not a repair that requires to have the water off to your home before attempting to repair. It only emits water when the tub valve is turned on. If it doesn't unscrew, twist it until the under side is up and you will see a slot where you can insert an allen wrench to loosen it and then slide off. Inspect the spout while it is in your hands to see if it is damaged of if the nipple sticking out is damaged. one of the two must be, because water flowing from behind the spout is definitely not normal and definitely something you need to fix right away, before your wall and floor behind your tub are damaged or start to grow mold.
if you have copper piping,you probably twisted the pipe when,you tightened the spout ,and broke pipe.
If you are'nt able to get into the wall on the shower side, cut a hole on the other side of shower wall to
Sounds like the dual water inlet valve on the back where the water supply is connected, has gone bad and is leaking across to the other side. It may also put water into the ice maker when you use your dispenser.
this sounds like a clogged drain like you said. look underneath the vehicle on the passenger side for a little black rubber drain spout. if you park under trees alot, it is very common for these to plug up. when you locate it, have the a/c on for about 15 minutes so that there is condensation for it to drain. if there is nothing coming out, take a coat hanger and insert it into the spout and pull the junk out. do it until water comes out.
check to ensure that the drain hose is not touching the side if the water storage bin. if still no luck then watch unit when running to assess the leak point............maybe a hairline crack in water container
Water inlet valve: If water drips even when the washer is off,check the water inlet valve. It is located inside the washer at the back of the unit. The fill hoses are attached to it. Replace if deemed necessary.
Water fill hoses: Check the water hoses from the
household plumbing. Tighten it or replace
it as necessary..
tub seal: It is located between the transmission and
the outer tub. To see the leak, fill the machine with water with small amount of detergent then open up the machine's main access panel.. The leak appears
at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. The seal is
difficult to replace and you probably should call a qualified appliance
Pump: You can spot the leak when the tub is
full of water if the pump leaks. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses
attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. Replace it as necessary if it leaks.
tub: The outer tub can rust, split, or be
punctured.You may have to replace the entire tub but its not economical repair to do. Consult a qualified technician for deatils.
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
device: It is a small device found on most washers that
prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water
supply. It is located either mid-way along or at the end of the black
rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. It is usually made of
translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or
cracks, you have to replace it.
tube: It is a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and
either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can
cause a leak.
spout: It is a plastic spout found on most washers near the top of the main
clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or
breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
This is most likely due to a bad o'ring. The bar you speak of...Does the unit have a small spout pointing upward from the area?...with a groove? Is the o'ring in that groove damaged or missing? When the grounds are compressed in the piston, the brew unit lowers down onto this spout and seals on it. The high pressure water then is injected upward inot the brew unit. When this seal fails the water simply leaks into the tray when there are grounds providing backpressure. When rinsing and no backpressure some of the water may be getting through. Make sure you lube up any seals with a food grade lube. Olive oil will work in a pinch.
There is a threaded stem that passes through the spout and attaches to the white plastic diveter valve. If you are starting from scratch (everything apart), you can put it back together in this order:
1) Place the white plastic diverter inside the spout. the circular side with the black round washer should face the the wall side of the shower (mating up against the threads for the water pipe).
2) The stem can now be inserted from the top and into the notched section of the white plastic diverter valve. The threaded end of the stem shoud be outside of the spout (from the top side).
3) A round black washer fits over the threads. It should sit right where the threads end. Dont push it all the way on to the unthreaded portion of the stem.
4) Screw the threaded knob onto the threads.
Should be ready to install now. Including the spout itself, there are 5 parts and are configured in this order from top to bottom.
1) Female threaded knob (the knob for operating the spout)
2) Threaded stem (threads on top)
3) Round black washer
5) Whit plastic diverter valve.
Mine leaks when I turn on the shower, thus reducing shower pressure. I looks like a poor design to me. The stem is not a tight fit in the spout and this allows the diverter to "wobble". The washer on the diverter valve does not seat tightly and allows water to leak out the tub spout when showering. I would replace the spout.