Question about Flotec 1 Hp Deep Well Pump

1 Answer

Water pump not running

We changed the pressure switch and the control box. Pump is still not running. We have well water, so when the pump does not run we have no running water in the house. Trying to determine if there is something else to try before we go and purchase a new well pump

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  • Jake Gibson
    Jake Gibson Jan 26, 2016

    Angela, I'm sorry to hear about your well pump not working, I hope you get this resolved soon. I would imagine not having water in your house could be extremely frustrating & scary. Have you had the chance to speak with a well pump repair professional? I'm wondering if they could look at your pressure switch and control box.

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  • 44 Answers

Hi have you removed the pump from the well and tested if it will run without going via the presure switch. It could be that the pump is blocked. If it is blocked and has been for a while it may well have burnt out the pump. How deep is your well and how far from the bottom of the well is the pump. The pump should be positioned a good distance from the bottom of the well to prevent any silt getting into the pump to block it. I have a 110 meter deep well and the water level is 38 meters below ground. I have the pump at 50 meters below ground. I have only changed the pump once in 10 years.
I hope this helps
Steve

Posted on May 02, 2014

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SOURCE: Flotec pump takes long time to pressure up.

This could be a problem it the pump caused by freezing, check your drain plugs first to see if their cracked or loosened. They will quite often be made if a softer nylon that will crack first and drain pump in the fation of many fail safes. A place to try on-line for parts that may help is "Optimus Home" But I would check the plugs first.

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

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SOURCE: No more then 30 pounds of presure and wont shut off. Flotec water

If the pressure does not get pass 30 psi, then check for leaks along the pipelines and on the tank itself. An air leak on the top portion of the tank can cause the pressure not to trigger the pressure switch. Use soap bubbles to detect any air leak. Although a stuck pressure is not more likely the problem, check it also.

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

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SOURCE: Electric motor runs but water pump does not pump

I have had the same problem everyone else has had with these pumps. I did serious research on these pumps and came up with a rebuild kit some parts bought some I make. I did mine 2 years ago and still working like a champ and have done over 20 locally with no problems. If your pump is noisy or the impeller has fallen off (typical) due to water getting in the unit and causing the bearings to fail email me and I can rebuild your pump. The process is simple send me the pump I will look at it and see if it can be rebuilt at NO CHARGE if it can be rebuilt you will save over 60% of a new one. Don't spend $349 - $599 on a new one let me look at it for free if I can rebuild it great if not you will have to buy a new one. I am not a dealer for any pumps so you will not have to worry about me selling you a pump and if you want the old one back pay the shipping and it it all yours.

Posted on Mar 09, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Flotec FP 4022-10 3/4 hp shallow well

The foot valve (one way valve) is either very dirty and in need of cleaning, or it is defective and should be replaced. Don't wait, you're wasting a heck of a lot of electricity and wearing out the pump much faster than you should.

Posted on Jun 02, 2010

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1 Answer

Once the water is shut off the pump keeps running


the pump is controlled by the storage tanks pressure switch , if it continues to run well after the pressure tank has refilled with water , either the switches manual override has been activated (lever) or its defective or blocked off with mud

Jun 27, 2014 | Utilitech 1-HP Cast Iron Shallow Well Jet...

Tip

Well Pressure Switch Adjustment Water Well Problems


1fa4b10.jpgIf you have a water well to supply your water needs, then you also have a well pump is some form and a well pressure switch that controls the water well pump and the pressures that it turns on and off at. Making the adjustments to this switch can be confusing, I will try to take away some of the confusion for you. There are many types of well pressure switches made. I will describe the adjustment of the most common type of switch and you can possibly translate from there if you have a different type of well pump pressure switch.

  1. Turn off the power to the well pump before making any adjustments. The blue flash from the arc when you short out the power is scary and leaves you seeing stars for a time.
  2. Drain all of the water pressure from the system and check that you have air pressure in your well pump pressure tank. If you intend to set the cut in of the pump at 30 PSI then make sure there is 28 PSI in the air part of the tank. Always 2 PSI less than your cut in pressure.
  3. Start the pump, run water, and then observe the pressures as the pump starts and stops. Remove power when adjusting to avoid the blue flash…you are working in close proximity to the electrical contacts of the switch.
  4. To raise the cut in pressure turn the taller center nut down to increase the spring pressure. This will start the pump at a higher pressure. To lower the start pressure turn the nut up or counter clockwise.
  5. To change the differential pressure, the difference between the start and stop pressures, you need to adjust the smaller nut that is on the side of the pressure switch. Turning this nut down will increase the differential pressure and likewise turning this nut counter clockwise or up will lower the differential pressure.

This process can take some time, but it will be worth it to have your pump and water system operating efficiently. You also can set the well water pressures to your liking.
This is a basic guide to help you fine tune your water well pump and your well pump pressure tank, along with your water pump pressure switch, so that they all work together to give you a good stable supply of well water.
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3689163-water_problems_pump_problems

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3690698-pump_problems_water_tank

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3690937-pump_problems_pressure_switch

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3695577-jet_pump_jet_water_pump

on Dec 22, 2009 | Plumbing

Tip

Well Pump Problems The Well Pressure Switch


If you have a water well pump then you also have a well pump pressure switch that controls the well pump. This little device can be very confusing. It also is known by many names. These may include pressure switch, well pressure switch, well pump pressure switch, water well pressure switch, well tank pressure switch, and many other variations. All of them refer to the same part that controls the on and off function of the water well pump whether it is a submersible well pump, a deep well jet pump, or a shallow well jet pump.
88e284b.jpg

Some the problems that are most common with the well pump pressure switch.

  1. The contacts burn out and fail to conduct the current through them to the well pump. If you see the contacts are very black or even not there then you definitely have to replace the pressure switch.
  2. The contacts weld together and keep the pump on continuously. Sometimes after getting worn and dirty the contacts on the well pressure switch will just stick right together and not release when the pressure builds and then the pump will not shut off. Even if you can release them with a screw driver, after turning the power off of coarse, they will just do it again, replace the pump switch.
  3. Dirt will sometimes plug up the little pipe nipple that goes down from the bottom of the well tank pressure switch and delay the action of the well pump. This can happen even on shallow or deep well pump that have the pressure switch mounted right on them or sense pressure through a small plastic tube. Take everything apart and clean out so that the water pressure to the pressure switch is accurate.

This should give you a basic guide to the common problems you may experience with your water well pressure switch.

Also note that some well pressure switches have a small lever on the side that will need to be held up for a minute or so to start the well pump. This is a low water cut off protection device that will keep the well pump off if it runs out of water in the well or if it loses prime for some reason. Hold the lever up part way for a bit till pressure starts to build in the well pump pressure tank and then it can be released.

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http://www.fixya.com/support/r3691134-pressure_switch_adjustment_water

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3690698-pump_problems_water_tank

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3689163-water_problems_pump_problems

on Dec 22, 2009 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Already took off pump & cleared out $12 in change but still will not pump all water out or spin out. can hear pump running but think the damage has already been done. would it be pump or pressure...


If the washing machine won't fill up, make sure that the water supply valves are turned on. Next, make sure there are no kinks in the supply hoses that run from the supply valves to the washing machine. If nothing is obstructing the hoses, you may have another controls issue.

Several of the washing machine controls are also responsible for the washing machine not draining, continuing to fill or filling too slowly. If the washer doesn't want to drain or stop filling, the issue could be the pressure switch. When water enters the machine, water also fills a tube in the pressure switch. When the air pressure reaches a certain point, it triggers a switch that will stop the machine from filling. Locate this pressure switch on your machine and look for damage. If you have a multimeter, use it to find any electrical issues. If there is no reading, the pressure switch needs to be replaced.

Read more: Tips to Repair a Washing Machine ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/way_5435622_tips-repair-washing-machine.html#ixzz1C6BhALK0

Jan 25, 2011 | Frigidaire GLTF2940ES Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I had a water line bust. After fixing the leak, I lost water pressure. Someone tried to fix the problem and now we have little to no water flow. I have to pumps . The smaller pump that feeds the house is...


The nut on the larger spring in the pump pressure switch: Usually the larger nut in the pump pressure control switch adjusts the pump cut-on ("cut-in") AND pump cut-off pressures simultaneously. This is the left-hand spring (and nut) in our photo. That means that whatever the gap is between the cut-on pressure and the cut-off pressure, that gap is maintained, but the entire operating range of the pump is raised or lowered. Turning the large nut clockwise RAISES BOTH the cut-on and cut-off pressures. So turning the large nut clockwise shifts the whole operating pressure range of the pump UP to HIGHER pressures.
Conversely, turning the large nut counter-clockwise will lower the whole pump operating range. This is the simplest adjustment to make.
Photo (left) courtesy of a reader.
The nut atop the smaller spring in the pump pressure switch: this nut is used to narrow or widen the gap between the pump cut-on and pump cut-off pressures. This is the right-hand spring (and nut) in our photo).

Turning the small nut clockwise (tighter) will RAISE the CUT-OFF pressure, and vice versa, loosening or turning the nut counter-clockwise will lower the cut-off pressure. Watch out! If you loosen this nut too much you can set the cut-off pressure below the cut-on pressure and the pump will turn on and run forever (or until it burns up.)
Which nut to turn in the pump pressure switch control, and which direction to turn it, are usually visible on a label inside the pressure switch cover. Above we show photos of a common Square D water pump pressure control switch (Schneider Electric) and the label with pump control adjustment details. [Click to enlarge].
Here are Example Pump Pressure Switch Adjustment Instructions from Square -D Understanding how pump pressure control switches work and which way to turn which of the two nuts in the control can be confusing.
On a Square-D Pumptrol® 9013FSF-2 pump pressure switch, for example, Square D tells us that we
  • Turn the Range Nut #1 (the larger spring and nut) clockwise (to the right or "down") to raise [both] cut-on and cut-off pressures. This is "tightening the nut down" against the spring. ("Rightie-tightie, leftie-loosie" as Mara Gieseke says to her kids). Thanks to reader Rise for this clarification.

    In other words, adjusting the pressure on this spring shifts the whole operating range of the switch up or down, but keeps the difference between cut-in and cut-out the same, whatever it happens to be (typically it's about 20 psi from the factory.)

    If you want the pump to turn ON (cut-in) sooner
    , that is, at a higher water pressure, turn the nut clockwise or "tighter".

    If you want the water pump to turn ON (cut-in) later, that is, at a lower water pressure, turn the nut counterclockwise or "looser".

  • Turn the Differential Nut #2 (the smaller spring and nut) clockwise to raise the cut-out pressure.

    If you want the water pump to turn OFF (cut out or cut-off) at a higher water pressure, turn this nut clockwise or "tighter".

    If you want the water pump to turn OFF (cut out or cut-off) at a lower water pressure, turn this nut counter clockwise or "looser"

    Here is why the small nut is called the "Differential"
Keep reading at LINK

Nov 03, 2010 | Flotec TC2151 P2 Well Pump Pressure Switch

1 Answer

I have a 3/4 h.p. 4'' sub. pump. when the holding tank level drops enough to allow the float to drop and open the valve to allow well water to enter the holding tank, as soon as the pressure drops enough...


The control box is always connected to the power
supply, that why it got power even the pump is not running. However, it does not consume much energy
as when the sub. pump is running. The operation of your pump is fully automatic. There's liquid level controller inside the well and a water level controller (float switch) at the holding tank. I believe there's nothing wrong with your sub. pump. Everything is
normal. If the control box senses abnormality, it
will just shut the sub. pump off. Just send in your e-mail if you need our assistance. God bless you.
it

Jul 13, 2009 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Pump spinning but not getting up to speed then shuts off


You have a pressurized system using a pressure tank.This is a case of an air logged pressure tank. Meaning there is more air than water in the pressure tank. The pressure tank must hold 2/3 water and 1/3 air of its total volume. Installed at the tank is the air volume control to take care of this proportion. Should the air volume control malfunction or becomes defective, the air-water ratio is affected. And then,
the pressure tank becomes either air logged or water
logged.
SOLUTION:
1. Shut the power off, and open the discharge line
gate valve to flush the water in the pipe lines.
2. Open the drain plug of the pressure tank to empty
all the water at the pressure tank.
3. Close the drain plug, and put the power on.
4. Start the pump, and set the flow control valve 1/4
open.
5. The pump will normally run.

Send your e-mail for us to know the results, and for
further assistance.


Jul 04, 2009 | Plumbing

1 Answer

How does the pump work on a back boiler?


I'm not sure how the wiring goes without being there to see the unit, but I almost bet that your system is working with a pressure switch to turn the pump on. When there is a drop in the pressure of the water by lets say running a faucet, then the switch senses that drop and turns the pump on. The pressure switch will be located in a small box by itself. When you are looking at the pump, there should be some conduit running to it with wires inside it. The conduit should enter the pump from the rear at some point. I hope this helps!

Apr 02, 2009 | Water Heaters

2 Answers

FH flashing on Whirlpool washer


hi....If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it....

thank u!!! rate me!!

Feb 11, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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