Heater was accidently unplugged from wall while on now lights on front will not come on and fan doesn't come on. Was told it was probably the fuse. Don't know where it is located or how to replace. Also don't know the amp of fuse.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Let it dry out give it a day or two before plugging it in put it in front of a fan or heater to dry out good. Was the Xbox plugged in when it got the water on it? Once its dryed out you can try plugging it in.If it doesn't power up you probably fried the power supply. But if it was like a glass of water got spilled and some splashed near fan it probably will work. I think there are even some fuses in side the Xbox but you should leave that to a professional. If it doesn't come on once its dryed out
CHECK THE AC AND HEATER CONTROL FUSE.MORE LIKELY FUSE BLOWED BECAUSE AC COMPRESSOR COULD HAVE FAILED IF LOW SIDE IS OVER 100 PSI. THE REED VALVE PLATE IN COMPRESSOR PROBABLY DAMAGED CAUSED COMPRESSOR FAILURE BLOWED THE HVAC CONTROLS FUSE. HAVE AC SHOP CHECK IT OUT.
Hi, should be listed as heater blower motor not fans ,the fans is the ones in front of radiator. most common problems are the blower motor resistor, which is in passenger side compartment near fire wall.This is were your blower motor is also. You can check and see if its getting power to resistor, with a test light if power is at resistor, check and see if you are getting power at blower motor if no power there replace resistor. But if you have power at motor replace blower motor. If i can help further just re post. thanks
Unplug the wire located at terminal J4 (12v positive) on the control board, and see if you are still popping fuses. If so, then the fault lies between the wire you just removed and the fuse that keeps blowing.
If the fuse holds, and blows when you plug the wire back onto J4 terminal, then unplug the wire(s) at J2. These go to your door heater (used in humid conditions to remove condensation), as well as the interior light. The switch for the door heater is located on front panel, or is at the top edge of the freezer compartment with door open. It is not unusual for this switch to have issues since it gets chilled and moisture condenses on it. If unplugging the wires at J2 allows the fuse to hold, you probably got a shorted heater or bad heater switch. But, pull the lens off the interior light, and check the contacts there as well.
If the fuse still blows with J2 removed, then unplug the connector in the top left corner of the control board. This goes to the control panel on the inside of the fridge. If the fuse blows, replace the control board. If the fuse holds, the replace the control panel.
Yes that is right. Turn the Refrigerator off/ unplug it. Remove the rear panel of the freezer and thaw out the coils with a fan or hair dryer.
The most common problem is with the defrost heater. Using an ohm meter check the heater for continuity but unplug the 2 wires (one from each side). This should be a glass encased heater. you can also very gently pull both ends of the heater and if it is bad it will come apart instead of feeling "springy". If you have only one heater your new replacement will probably be a 2 heater kit.
The front blower motor is controlled by the blower resistor module.This is usually the problem with the front blower not working.I looked up the schecmatics and I don`t see separate fuses for the front and rear.But the fuse for the front blower is in the under hood fuse block.If this is good then The problem is probably the resistor module.It is next to the blower motor.The connector from the resistor connects to the blower motor.If you want to confirm this you can check for power and ground at the blower motor connector when you activating the blower switch on.This can be done with a test light.Make sure you have power going into the resistor module also.If you have power going in and no power at the blower motor then replace the resistor.Hope this helps.Good luck.
If it isn't the heater coil, then the only things left are the heater fan fuse or the heater fan motor itself. Check your fuses. If you don't have a fuse diagram, start with highest amp fuses first. The heater motor uses a lot of juice and will probably be on at least a 10 amp fuse. If all the fuses are good then you probably need a new heater fan motor. They usually mount to the fire wall from the engine compartment and are pretty easy to change. Not at all like the heater coil.
There's a fan speed control module mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment. It probably needs to be replaced assuming you've checked the fuses and are certain a fuse isn't blown as a result of pushing the wiring back into the dash.