Shuts off problems

Check to make sure it's empty (no water in it). Also make sure that the condenser coil and discharge area is clean and not obstructed. Any leak of refrigerant can also prevent operation, due to low pressure switch (a protective device), Plugging and unplugging will not solve the problem.

Generally a shut down is due to an empty water container or the float valve. If you have a can of compressed air, you can blow dry the integral ports and perhaps free up any contamination that has caused the unit to shut down.

The replacement solenoid may have been defective.

First I have a question for you. Is the shut off valve a saddle type valve or inline? A saddle valve will mount directly on the water line and be held in place with two machine screws. They will generally have a t type handle. The inline is just what you would think in that it is part of the water line. This type of valve may have the same t handle. Either way to shut valve off you turn clockwise and counterclockwise for on. Off to the right .
Most of the valves used for this application are a needle valve they have a pointed end that seals into a recess in valve body when closed. It's possible that when you shut it off the valve stem broke or just stuck in off position. If there is a small hex nut around the valve stem where it goes into valve body then you can shut off water supply off to inlet of valve and remove the nut and try to pull stem up with small pliers.
Either way if you can't get valve to open then you can easily replace them. Either the saddle valve or compression valve should cost under ten dollars. If you do replace then just follow instruction that come with valve.I hope this helps you some. Thank you

Your plumber is correct your unit should be plumbed with cold water.
Easy fix if you need to do it yourself.
More than likely they have a 1/4 inch line taped into a 1/2 inch copper line near your furnace.
Simply shut off the tap on the undesired line and disconnect the 1/4 inch line.
Install a new tap on the cold water side and reintall supply line to the unit.

Do not remove the old tap on the hot water line simply shut it off because it puctures the line, hence the tap.

close the by pass air flow valve. shut off the water supply and finally flow the thermostat wire to the transformer or the controller and shut off or disconnect. Unit should be serviced before winter. Cell may need to be replaced

does anyone have a problem with a Venta humidifier not working proberly

if you are constantly heating the house, your heter element in the furnace is drawing in and drying out the air you are humidifying. Heat the house, and then turn on the humidifier while the heater is not running. Is your humidifier able to do your entire house (whole house) or just a small room unit?

Hello Genna,
I am not a furnace guy but I may be able to give you a few ideas of things to diagnose the problem and get it resolved. First off, I assume you have a thermostat that you use to to turn your heat on. If it is a generic ( meaning : non programmable model) then you should be able to try this simple test. Remove the cover ( typically they snap on) around the thermostat so you can see the control mechanism inside. You should see few skinny wires ( similar to those used on a telephone wire) solid copper in various colors.. When you rotate the dial on your thermostat to call for heat, there is a small glass vial that has a drop of mercury ( which is electrically conductive) in it that makes contact and shorts two control wires together ad that is what calls for heat on your furnace. When the temp inside the room where the thermostat is reaches the tempertaure you requested, the bimetal mechanism either contracts or expands to reposition that glass vial to shift the mercury off the contacts and your furnace shuts off... That is the basics behind how your thermostat and furnace work ( generally speaking) If you can identify the two wires inside the thermosat that are shorted together when that vial of mercury shorts them inside it.. you can temproarily unhook them ( they are low voltage.. normally 24 Volts or less) so no worries about getting ashock or anything.. and short them together for a minute or two.. by doing that... your furnace should turn on and heat should flow.... Once you start your furnace this way.. unhook these two wires and your furnace should shut down .. It may take a minute or two ( depending on the control for it) If it doesn't..then your problem is on the furnace side and you may need to get the furnace control system serviced or replaced.. if it does shut down, then your problem is your thermostat and thats a simple replacement.. Also.. make sure the thermostat was properly leveled on its base.. The position of the thermostat ( meaning level) will dictate when that mercury makes contact and your furnace switches on.. OK..I tried to explain the works of this to you but here is a link to a Honeywell site that explains it in simpler terms.. The part about shorting the two wires together and then opening them will aid you in identifying where the problem actually is.. here is the link: http://homerepair.about.com/od/heatingcoolingrepair/ss/thermostat.htm

Hope this helps you more than confuses you..
Regards

THAT MODEL COMES WITH A BUILT-IN AIR FLOW SWITCH (IF I RECALL CORRECTLY) THAT CAN GO BAD ... IN THE OLD DAYS WE JUST POWERED THE HUMIDIFIER BY CONNECTING IT TO THE LOW SPEED (FOR HEAT) OF THE BLOWER MOTOR. HONEYWELL HAS HAD PROBLEMS WITH THEIR RESIDENTIAL AIR-FLO SWITCHES ON HUMIDIFIERS AND THEIR ELECTRONIC AIR CLEANERS. AND THEY ARE THE HIGHEST PRICED ON THE MARKET.