If water valve still allows water even after unplugged electric wires to it then water cylinoid valve is bad.. if water stopes when unplugged then relay in circuit board is sticking or board defective..
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first, freeze cycle too short because you are loosing water. Water may be leaking thru the dump valve. Look at drain while machine is running and see of alot of water is draining. The dump valve spring may be week or there is trash in the dump valve preventing it from seating properly. drain water first before pulling dump valve apart.
Hi, The defrost heater may not be working properly (timer stuck, heating element burned out, bad defrost thermostat,etc.). The unit should go into defrost mode about every 6-8 hours typically and last about 30 minutes (depending on model of freezer). During defrost cycles the compressor and fan do not run (don't want to keep cooling while trying to defrost). Once defrost is over, the fan and compressor get power again.
Hi, The defrost heater may not be working properly (timer stuck, heating element burned out, bad defrost thermostat,etc.). The unit should go into defrost mode about every 6-8 hours typically and last about 30 minutes (depending on model of freezer). During defrost cycles the compressor and fan do not run (don't want to keep cooling while trying to defrost). Once defrost is over, the fan and compressor get power again. Take care
several things cause freeze ups.
If you have water filters on the water system, be sure they are not restricting the water flow. water flow pressure should not go below 20 psi.
The bin stat may not be shutting off the unit properly. It should shut off machine within 10 seconds of ice making contact.
Make sure the float switch is not dirty. Be careful when cleaning. Fragile
Make sure water pump runs the entire time it is in the freeze cycle.
Be sure the evaps are clean. Ice cubes will hang on if not clean.
Water solenoid has a screen where the water line screws on to it. Turn off water and check screen to be sure it is clean. This can restrict water flow.
Make sure water valve closes all the way. Turn machine off and see if water is still running. Valve may be leaking water thru.
Dip switches on the board, #1 and #2. Turn them both on and it will change the defrost time to 3 minutes. If both are off, they are set on 1 minute.
In most cases, an evap that freezes up is either an air flow problem or no defrost cycle. Older Hobarts have mechanical defrost time clocks. It could be locked up i.e., not running so no defrost cycle.
It could be coming out of defrost too early because the sensor that monitors the evap temp is not working properly.
The door could not be closing. If left cracked open, it will freeze up every time as unit never hits temp., keeps unit running. Warm air is seeping in and the moisture freezes on evap.
Lastly, the defrost heater(s) may not be working. Burned out, shorted, broken wire, etc.
(Quated From Hoshizaki Technical Bulletin) An alarm code of 3 beeps every 3 seconds means that the control board has shut down on the 60 minute freeze cycle back up timer.
The “E” control board has a 60 minute timer that starts at the beginning of the freeze cycle. If the float switch fails to open and start the next harvest within 60 minutes, the board will automatically start the harvest cycle. If this occurs in two consecutive cycles, the control board will shut the unit down on the manual reset, freeze cycle back- up timer. The yellow fault LED marked “60 min.” will illuminate. This safety is designed to help prevent a freeze up of the evaporator.
Once you have identified the 60 minute alarm, there are several things to check. Reset the alarm by depressing the white reset button to the right of the fault LED’s. This must be done with the power “ON”. Now check the float switch to see if it is stuck in the up position. A stuck float can occur if scale is present on the reed switch shaft inside the housing. To check it, drain the water reservoir, unplug the black float switch connector (K5) from the control board and check it with an ohm meter for a closed switch (zero ohms). If the float switch is sticking, clean it with ice machine cleaner or replace it as necessary. An inlet water valve which is slowly leaking by during the freeze cycle can cause a 60 minute alarm. If the inlet water valve is stuck wide open, it is unlikely that any ice will form on the evaporator. Check for a slow leak by allowing the unit to cycle into the freeze cycle and disconnecting the hose at the outlet of the water valve. If water leaks by during the freeze cycle, the water valve diaphragm is likely damaged or the small diaphragm bleed port is clogged with scale. Clean the bleed port or replace the diaphragm or entire water valve as necessary.
(I Recommend to get a refrigeration tech for this part).
Another possibility is a refrigeration system problem. You should use normal refrigeration diagnosis procedures to check for one of these problems. If the thermostatic expansion valve is not feeding properly or the refrigerant charge is low, the evaporator will not form ice as it should and a long freeze cycle will occur. This could also be the result of the hot gas valve not closing completely during the freeze cycle or if the compressor valves are weak or inefficient. An inefficient compressor however, will usually show up first on the KM model through a longer than normal harvest cycle. This is because of cooler than normal discharge gas. Use proper refrigeration practices to repair a refrigeration system problem. While these are not the only reasons for a 60 minute freeze cycle, they are the most common and should be checked to resolve a 3 beep/yellow fault LED alarm.
You should check the drain hose inside underneath the freezer.This is done at the back down below. Mine was looped too high and water could not get out. I took the loop off that was holding the hose and now water can drain away without freezing. You can pour warm water down the drain hole to melt the ice in the tube if you remove the grate covering it inside the freezer. I have read that several Kenmore upright freezer owners have the same problem. I was astonished that this was the problem and I had put up with it for too long, defrosting the freezer every 2-3 months!.Give it a try!
I looked at the BACK at the bottom underneath of my Sears Kenmore frost free upright freezer and what was causing the ice buildup was very simple. At the factory, the assembler looped the little hose too high and when the water went into the hose it could not get out due to being too high in one spot! An ice dam will form, blocking ALL water coming through and freezing up any more water coming down giving you a HUGE wad of ice that is scary!!! I just removed the screw holding the loop that holds the hose and put a bit of warm water down the little hole on the INSIDE (Behind the grate) to melt the remaining ice in the tube.You need to take out 4 screws and remove the grate to see this. I could not believe that this was the problem! I haven't had any ice build up since.Now don't tear your freezer apart before you try this trying to fix the compressor, thermostat etc. It may be the only thing wrong with it!