Question about Poulan 3314 Chain Saw Muffler Complete

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Poulin 3314 sat for two years. the engine will turn over but the sprocket with the clutch assembly can only be moved with channel locks. extemely stiff

Chain saw problem

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  • Contributor
  • 17 Answers

Is it rusty looking? Be sure the chain brake is not engaged, or it will not turn.

Posted on Apr 23, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

rowdy45176
  • 2176 Answers

SOURCE: I need a drive sprocket for the chain on my poulin

I checked Poulans website and they dont show a breakdown for this tool, but you can call 1-800-554-6723 and request assistance

Posted on Mar 03, 2009

  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: my chain saw stalls when I put the chain brake on.

You may have a broken clutch spring.

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: Chain doesn't move

Sounds like the clutch is slipping due to oil collected on the inside of the clutch drum. Wash out the entire clutch assembly with spray carburetor cleaner and let dry. Make sure the chain can be turned freely by hand, but the chain doesn't droop from the lower bar edge. Hope this helps!

Posted on May 27, 2010

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: My saw simply will not pump chain oil. Iv'e run it

Check that the bar oil ports are clean; there should be a small hole or slot on each side of the bar and these can become pluged with sawdust. Also clean the groove in the bar with a small screwdriver or bar cleaning tool every 8 hrs of operation.

If this does not fix the problem check the oil sump screen in the oil tank(usually on the end of a rubber hose); if no screen in tank: remove oil pump and clean(screen is sometimes in oil pump assembly).

Posted on Oct 07, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Poulan P2316 chain saw. The chain got

Chain wont move while motor running

Posted on Aug 17, 2011

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1 Answer

How do you change a 2002 Harley Road King stator?


Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary and remove the outer primay cover. Take the engine sprocket nut off, take the clutch adjuster out of the center of the clutch assembly and remove the mainshaft nut. This nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster. Take the engine sprocket, clutch assembly, and primary chain off all together. Then, pull the rotor off the engine sprocket. It can be difficult to get off due to the strong magnets in it. Once off, there are four small bolts holding the stator on and two small screws holding the plug into the case. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. Torque the small Torx bolts that hold the stator on to 40 inch pounds. The engine sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds with one line of Loctite 271 heavy hold thread locker in it. The LEFT HANDED threaded mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds with a single line of Loctite in it. You'll need a primary locking bar to keep the engine from turning while applying torque to the engine sprocket nut and the mainshaft nut.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 15, 2011 | Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King Classic...

1 Answer

How do i replace the regulator & stator on a 92


There's nothing to replacing the regulator. It simply bolts to the frame. The wires from the regulator to the stator plug into the plug on the lower left front of the engine case. The larger longer wires runs back along the frame and up to the positive post of the battery.

There's a bit more to replacing the stator. To replace the stator, disconnect the battery and drain the primary case. Remove the outer primary cover. You'll have to take the engine compensator sprocket nut off and remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. To get the clutch assembly off, remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the clutch adjuster. The mainshaft nut is inside the hole in the center of the clutch assembly. The nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster and take the engine sprocket, primary chain with adjuster, and the clutch assembly off all together. The rotor is on the engine sprocket shaft. It can be difficult to get off because of the magnets inside of it. The rotor has two holes in it. I use two long bolts and put them just into the holes deep enough to hold the rotor by squeezing the ends together. Pull the rotor off. The stator is held on by four small Torx bolts and it has a wire support that is held on by two small sheet metal screws. When you install the new stator, make sure you use thread locker on the threads and torque the bolts to 40 inch pounds of torque. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch mainshaft nut (LEFT HANDED THREADS) torques to 60-80 foot pounds. You'll probably need a locking bar or some way to prevent the engine from turning while you torque the nuts.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 01, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide...

1 Answer

Where is the alternator on 883 sportster xl


It depends on what year model the Sportster is. Harley went to an alternator on the Sportster in late 1984. It was behind the clutch assembly with the outer clutch drum acting as the rotor. It stayed this way up until 1991 when they moved the stator and rotor up to the front of the engine like a Big Twin. It is now in the primary and driven off the engine sprocket shaft.

Good Luck
Steve

Mar 26, 2011 | Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883...

1 Answer

How to install stator


To install a stator on your Softail, you'll have to remove the outer primary, the engine drive sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly. Then, you can get to the four screws that holds the stator. The job is not that difficult if you've got a few tools and a bit of mechanical skills. The engine sprocket is quite tight and you'll probably need an air wrench or a "locking bar" to keep the engine from turning while you torque the engine nut holding the sprocket. The engine sprocket torques to 150-165 foot pounds and the clutch nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Some click type torque wrenches will not work in the left handed direction. The clutch nut is behind the adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly. Just take the snap ring out and you'll see it.

I use two 5/16" bolts about three inches long to remove the magnetic rotor. Stick the bolts just slightly in the two holes and squeeze them together so that they bind. Then pull the rotor off. Take the four torqs, out of the stator and the two screws out of the plastic plug retainer. Work the plug out of the case and lift the stator off the sprocket shaft. Install the new stator by coating the new plug with black RTV. Put the stator over the sprocket shaft and then work the plug into the hole in the engine case. Put the stator in place and put the NEW bolts that came with it in place and start them. Put the plastic plug retainer in and then torque the stator bolts to 40 inch pounds.

Mar 11, 2011 | 2005 Harley Davidson FXST - FXSTI Softail...

1 Answer

Removal motorsprocket


I'm going to assume that you are talking about how to remove the engine sprocket from the sprocket shaft in the primary cover.

First, disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Look underneath the primary and loosen the locknut for the primary chain adjuster and loosen the primary chain by turning the screw outwards a few turns.

Then take the derby cover off the primary and remove the spring and locknut for the clutch adjustment. Remove the screws from around the primary and break it loose from the engine. Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise while removing the primary cover. Lay the primary cover aside.

Now, there is a plate in the center of the clutch assembly held in with a circlip. Remove the circlip. Now you'll need either an air wrench or a locking bar to lock the primary to prevent it from turning so you can get the clutch hub nut and the engine sprocket nut off. The engine nut has right hand threads and comes off normally. The clutch hub nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS and you must turn it in reverse. Once you get the two nuts off, you can usually grab the engine sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift those two units and the chain off at once. Sometimes you may need a puller to get the engine sprocket off but usually it just comes right off.

Installation is the reverse with the engine nut being torques to 150 foot pounds and the clutch hub nut torqued to 60 foot pounds left handed.

Good Luck
Steve

Mar 03, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883

1 Answer

Looking for step by step instructions on replacing a stator on a 2001 FXDWG


To replace the stator on your Wide Glide, you'll have to pull the outer primary cover off. This means drain the oil and remove the outer primary cover. Then, you'll need a wrench to remove the large nut on the engine compensator sprocket. You'll probably need a "locking bar" to wedge between the sprokets to lock the assembly from turning. Remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly, remove the clutch release plate that is held in by the snap ring. Inside the clutch is a nut that has LEFT HANDED THREADS, remove this nut. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster. Grab the clutch assembly and the engine compensator sprocket and lift these parts and the chain off as a unit.

Now, there are some thin spacers that go behind the sprocket shaft extension and a 0.090" thick spacer that goes behind the rotor. Do not mix these shims up. You'll see two holes in the rotor. I use two 5/16" bolts about three inches long to get the rotor off. Stick them in the holes just slightly, squeeze the outer ends towards each other and pull the rotor off. The magnets are pretty strong. The stator is held on by four small Torx head bolts and there's nylon retainer with two small screws that hold the plug in. Retorque the four Torx head screws to 40 inch pounds of torque with a Loctite #242 blue or equivalent thread locking compound on them. Reassembly is the reverse of the assembly. The torque on the clutch assembly nut (mainshaft nut) is 60-70 foot pounds with one line of Loctite #271 red locktite, (remember this nut has left-handed threads) and the engine compensator sprocket torques to 150-165 foot pounds with two lines of Loctite #271 red. Adjust the primary chain so that the up and down play in the center of the top run is 3/4" to 7/8" cold. Outer primary bolts torque to 100 inch pounds.

For a better explanation, you'll need an OEM service manual.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 24, 2010 | 2001 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

1 Answer

Whats it take to install a clutch hub for a 1988 police bike flhpt


To install a clutch is not what I call an easy job but not an extremely difficult job either. You are going to need some special tools however.

The tools you'll need are an impact wrench, a large socket to fit the compensator nut and one to fit the mainshaft nut, a primary locking bar, torque wrenches that will torque to 150 foot pounds and 70 foot pounds in the left handed direction, and a special tool required to disassemble the clutch assembly.

First, disconnect the battery, then drain the primary and remove the outer primary cover. Use the impact wrench and appropiate socket to remove the compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Remove the snap ring holding the release plate in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the LEFT HANDED THREADED mainshaft nut. Take the nut off the chain tensioner and remove the primary drive (engine sprocket, adjuster, and clutch assembly) as a unit.

Now, using the special tool, compress the clutch spring and remove the lock ring holding the clutch assembly together. Disassemble the clutch and reassemble it with the new clutch hub. Reinstall the primary drive. Apply one line of Loctite 271 inside the mainshaft nut and torque it to 70-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Apply two lines of Loctite 271 (red) to the compensator nut and torque it to 150-165 foot pounds. This is what the locking bar is for, to keep the engine from turning while applying the torque to these two nut. Adjust the primary chain and reinstallt the outer primary. Add about one quart of lubricant to the primary. Reconnect the battery. Adjsut the clutch and cable.

Good Luck
Steve

Sep 17, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHRI Road King...

1 Answer

Need diagram to change stator on 99electra glide classic


I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

Aug 15, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

On my petrol chainsaw the cog that turns the chain is not moveing


The sprocket should be fixed to the outer clutch drum. With the engine off, and the bar and chain off, hold the sprocket with channel lock pliers and turn the outer clutch drum by hand. If the sprocket does not turn, but the drum does, then the clutch must be replaced. (Left hand threads) To keep the engine from turning while trying to remove the clutch internals, stuff starter cord into the upper cylinder head area so that the piston cannot rise above the top of the exhaust port. If you have a saw service shop near you, you might farm out the clutch replacement. It usually requires a special tool to turn the clutch internals. Good luck!

Jul 23, 2010 | Homelite Consumer Products 9.0 Amp, 14 In....

1 Answer

Saw starts but blade wont turn


The chain must be free to move by hand--adjust as necessary. It could be that it is not being oiled properly. The chain sprocket (gear) is part of the clutch assembly and probably needs to be replaced if the chain is moving freely. The internal component of the clutch must be firmly attached to the engine crankshaft.

Jul 02, 2009 | Garden

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