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Check the thermostat...drop it into a pan of boiling water and check that it pops open. Take the pan off the heat and check that the 'stat pops closed (about 80 centigrade). Next check out radiator...remove top and bottom hoses and back flush with a garden hose through the bottom hose connection to remove any obstruction, rusty gunk build up. Flush out hoses to engine (bottom one especially) if full of crud. Flush system out until water runs clean. Drain complete system and refill with 50% water : 50%antifreeze mix. Check for compatible antifreeze for your engine not all anti freezes are the same. Antifreeze contains anti corrosion inhibitors which will prevent further crud build up. As the engine warms up ensure that all air is expelled by squeezing hoses etc. Ensure top hose becomes hot and if you have an electric fan that it come s on fully. If it fails to engage then chack out temperature sensor (not the same as 'sender' to the dash display), check out fan relays and fuses. Hot wire the fan with trailing wires from the battery to ensure that the motor is OK as a final check.
Try removing the Heater hoses from heater tubes(be careful not to break heater tubes off) then back flush heater core with garden hose(Don't use a lot of pressure). Jell from antifreeze builds up in the heater core and blocks the coolant flow. If it is easier, remove the heater hoses from the engine, that is safer. Back flush the heater from the hoses. To Back Flush (The hose coming from the water pump is the inlet)(Hose going to Manifold is outlet) Back flush outlet hose! To much water pressure may cause damage to heater core!!!! Do Not ues AIR!!!!
Make sure the reservoir coolant tank is at 'full'. Start the car from cold and observe. After a couple of minutes when the engine has begun to drop in revs ( the coolant temperature sensor should tell the ECU to begin to shorten the injection cycle as the engine warms) the top of the engine and the coolant passage to the thermostat housing should become warm to the touch. When hot the top rubber hose to the radiator should become warm and then hot as coolant begins to circulate. If the top hose fails to get hot at any time then the thermostat is at fault. If you have electrically driven radiator fans these should now come on. If they fail to come an at all you need to check the coolant temperature sensor, the electrical motor fuses and the motor relay. Lastly check the motor itself (just run a 12v supply to it directly). As the ar continues to idle, with the fans running, the bottom return hose from the radiator to engine should also become warm. If the bottom hose fails to become warm this points to circulation problems. Either the radiator had become clogged with rust sludge and needs an extensive flushing out with a high pressure hose or the pump is not functioning as it should. Quickly check that the interior heater works by asking for 'full heat with fan on full'. If the interior heater works this indicates that the main coolant pump is probably OK.
To check the thermostat more thoroughly, remove it from the car and drop it in a pan of near boiling water; the 'stat should pop open. As the pan cools, at 88 degree centigrade or so, the 'stat should pop closed. Failure to observe this tells you the 'stat is a dead and needs to be renewed.
Red light is just a reed switch that turns on the LED when a floating magnet inside the cassette floats up (when the cassette is full) and switches on the reed switch thereby switching on the LED. It just tells you the cassette is full and you need to empty it.
I'd say either your button or electric valve is broken. All the button does is allow the electric valve to break the seal that allows water to flow from your onboard water system.
I'll assume that the water in the rest of your motorhome is working?
So check the switch first.
You can lever off the switch/LED panel and remove the square connector from the back of the button. Get a multimeter and set it to either Continuity or Resistance (Ohms). Place the connectors on 2 of the switch pins and press the switch (the switch is actually 2 switches with 4 pins, but each pair of pins is connected together) - if you get a beep (if multimeter on continuity) or low resistance reading (if on resistance) then the switch is working - if this is the case then it's probably the electric valve. If the switch is not working, then that's your culprit.
When you replace the connecter you can replace it either way round.
well, yes... but apart from providing you with a forum in which to vent your frustration I'm not sure how you think we might help. I have the same problem with a dual flush cistern, but in my case I know that the root of the problem lies in the fact that the soil pipe leading from the bowl has insufficient fall (because the previous owner of my house moved the toilet further from the down pipe). Maybe something like this is contributing to your problem too?
Don't send money. Just go to thetford.com and download info. Some tips - if seal is old and breaking up make sure you recover all the bits which have fallen into the flush water tank. If new o-ring seal not available use outdoor silicone sealant and allow to set for 48 hours before adding anything other than a small amount of water to test flush action. Electric circuit includes a fuse and microswitch which are both contained within the flush water tank but you are unlikely to have problems with these items.
You may need to replace the thermostat or water pump, even flush out the system. Best thing to do is to flush out the system with radiator flush and follow the instructions and replace the oil antifreeze with new one with a 50/50 mix (water/antifreeze), if you not sure how to do that you can buy them premixed. Next is to replace the thermostat and radiator cap, that should fix the problem. The last thing would be the water pump is weak and would need to be replaced but lets start with the simple., The other thing to if it's only hot when your at a stop light then check the fuse and relays and wire harness to your radiator fan to make sure it's working. If you turn on your A/C that would over ride the temperature sensor and activate the fans so you know that is working, so if's running hot all the time even when your driving, replace the thermostat and coolant. Good luck.
It could be a faulty:
1-Radiator fan, Check the fuse.
2-Bad Thermostat, Change the Thermostat
3-Weak Water pump, Change the Water Pump.
Easiest thing to do is see if the fuse to the Electric radiator fan is bad. If it's good, then start up the car and see if it goes on when the temperature starts to get hot. I think the fan activates around 190". If the fan does not turn on, check for lose wires and bad grounds to the electric motor. Take caution, fan may activate without warning.
If the electric fan works good, then change the Thermostat. It may have failed and stuck in the shut position. After changing the Thermostat and problem still there, good chances are that it's the Water pump that may be faulty.
Before you go all though that trouble, check the Antifreeze level, make sure you have lots in there and just don't look at the radiator antifreeze reservoir. Look in the filler cap and the radiator cap. The plastic can become stained making it look like it is full but it's really empty.
Good luck and hope this help. Oh don't buy any radiator flush, it may clean up any dirt that my be plugging up any holes in the system, you do have a 6 year old car.