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From Spyder's tech Tips, section entited: Wrenching Tips for Starter Pinion Gear
The starter pinion gear attaches to a splined endshaft on the starter gearbox assembly. The pinion gear is the gear that spins the ring gear attached to the clutch basket. Unless this gear is installed correctly the assembly can come apart and leave you with a pile of aluminum filings and a milled out extension shaft end support!
When installing the pinion gear on the splined endshaft you will install a splined washer, a spring, a flat washer, the pinion gear, a lockwasher, the extension shaft and the bolt that holds the whole thing together - in that order. The extension shaft is locked to the pinion gear by a lockwasher that fits between the gear and the extension shaft itself. IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT THE BOLT IS TIGHTENED ENOUGH TO COMPRESS THE LOCKWASHER FULLY! If the bolt is not tight, the bolt will work loose and eventually cause the pinion gear to become detached from the endshaft spline.
It may be necessary to RED Locktite the screw that holds the endshaft to the starter jackshaft spline. You can use a propane torch (CAREFULLY!) to heat the bolt and break the Locktite bond if you wish to remove the bolt at a later date. Of course, WHENEVER YOU USE AN OPEN FLAME ANYWHERE NEAR YOUR BIKE YOU SHOULD DRAIN THE GAS TANK(S) into a legal and safe container.
The problem is that the endshaft turns in a clockwise direction as the starter is activated. Although the endshaft is held in a bushing, the resistance to turning will cause the endshaft to apply a force in the counterclockwise direction, tending to unscrew the bolt that holds the endshaft in place and compresses the lockwasher. It would be ideal if the endshaft bolt was left-hand threaded, but then it wouldn't mate with a stock starter gearbox endshaft spline.
Check pump housing and plate for wear,make sure aluminium housing not corroded under plate. Suggest fitting electric drill to drive shaft and emerse lower unit in bucket of water.make sure drill doesn't get wet.is motor going into gear,maybe splines are rusted off in crankshaft,could also have holes in inner exhaust side plate
If it is running loose for a long time and is worn then should be replaced as soon as But if the tensioner has come loose which it shouldn't have then an inspection of the links will further tell you if it should be replaced.There are ways to inspect the timing chain.This is a rough guide.
Timing Chain and Sprockets Cleaning and Inspection
Clean the components with cleaning solvent.
Wear safety glasses in order to avoid eye damage.
Dry the components with compressed air.
Inspect the timing chain for binding or wear.
Inspect the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets for:
Worn teeth (1)
Damaged teeth (2)
Chipped teeth (3)
Worn valleys between the sprocket teeth
Inspect the crankshaft sprocket keyway for wear.
Inspect the crankshaft sprocket oil pump drive splines for wear.
Inspect the chain guide (232) for the following conditions:
Loose metal inserts (1)
Cracking (2) in the chain contact area
Excessive grooves (3) in the chain contact area Grooves 1 mm (0.040 in) or
less in depth are to be considered normal wear.
If the saw has a EPA carb it will have anti tamper screws, these have a spline on them, not a screw driver slot, there is a special tool to adjust the jets part no. 530035560, check the web for sellers, both screws are fuel screws, not air screws, so the more you undo them the richer the mixture gets, the L screw will adjust the mixture from idle up to half throttle, the H screw will adjust from half throttle to max rpm, all saws today are set for the best emmissions not the best running so they are always set on the lean side, the settings as they are will be a good starting point, if the saw does not pick up clean inscrew the L screw a bit at a time until it does, be very carefull with the H screw as this can be leaned off too much and the saw will over rev and possibly seize, this should be do with a taco so as you know what the rvs are, it should not exceed 12500 rpm.it should aleays sound a little rich at maximum no load revs.
Assembling an oil pump is not that difficult provided you do a few things to insure that it works correctly. Now, you didn't tell me if the engine was in the frame or out. The difference is that the oil pump drive shaft will already be in the engine and the assembly will be different than if the shaft is out of the engine.
The first thing is that you want to make sure the oil seal is in the pump body and that it's installed in the correct direction. The lip of the seal must face the feed side of the pump. If you look at the gears and the pump body, you'll see that two gears are "thicker" than the other two. Also, the area that these gears go into are the same, one side it deeper than the other in the pump body. The "thin" gears are the feed gears that pump oil into the engine and the "thick" gears are the scavenge gears that pump the oil out of the engine. Once you get the seal installed correctly. You can start putting the gears and drive keys in.
Start by pulling the drive shaft out the back side to the engine as far as possible and installing the inner oil pump gasket. "Stick" the gasket to the engine case with a thin coating of grease. Slide the driven scavenge gear on the shaft with the drive key installed in the keyway of the shaft. The driven gear is the gear with the keyway cut in it. Lubricate the drive shaft and slide the pump body up to the gears making sure you don't go too far and knock the key out of the shaft.
Now put the drive key for the feed side of the pump in the keyway of the shaft and install the feed side driven gear. Make sure the key does not come out of the keyway. Once you get this installed, put the idle feed gear in the pump body. Then install the snap ring on the pump end of the shaft.
Now, carefully slide the pump towards the engine while holding the oil pump drive gear in place in the cam chest. Slide the pump body up to the engine and loosely install the two short bolts in the pump body holding it to the engine. Turn the pump drive shaft and the drive gear so that the keyways are aligned and use a pair of needle nose pliers to insert the key. Then install the snap ring on that end of the shaft.
Then, "stick" the outer oil pump gasket on the outer face of the oil pump body and install the outer cover of the oil pump. Install the four bolts and snug them up to the cover. Now you are ready to tighten the bolts. You should have the pinion gear and oil pump drive gear removed from the pinion gear of the pinion shaft of the flywheel. This will allow you to turn the oil pump while you torque the bolts.
The oil pump bolts torque to 90-110 INCH pounds. Torque the bolts in a criss cross pattern while turning the drive gear in the cam chest with your fingers. If the pump tightens up at any point, you must loosen and reposition the pump slightly and start tightening the pump again. The goal is to get the pump to final torque and still be able to turn the pump freely. Freely is the key word here. Not herky-jerky turning or having to force the gear to turn.
The VZ 800 ,has a linkage system ,it can be adjsted to suit your needs .Firstly , your linkage attaches to the front foot lever.on the other end the linkage attaches to the actual gear box.Its this part that you need to adjust ,Undo the bolt that holds the linkage bracket to the gearbox spline. slide the bracket of the spline .undo all the adjusting screws on the linkage rod ,position the gearbox linkage unit to the required angle you need to position the foot lever to the popsition you want and the adjust the linkage rod to suit the distance between the garebox liinkage unit and foot change.
Sound like a nasty problem. Something has to be wrong, maybe the keyway is cammed out on the arbor shaft?? Did you try some lock tite, on the set screws, then I am guessing you got the set screws tight for sure? I know thats not easy. I deal in table saw parts on ebay as "Hokienpokie" if you need to try a different arbor assembly I should be able to get you one with your saw model #, Jim