Question about Kenmore 3.5 cu. ft. Front Load Electric Washer
I recently unstacked my set so I could work on the house and the first time I went to use it the door wouldn't open after spinning. Without the weight of the dryer it seemed to shake more than usual.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It sounds like your tub bearing is bad or going bad. It could be the adjustment on your spin cycle. Does your unit allow you to adjust this. Also are you overloading. Can you send me the brand and model of your unit and I help you more.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
SOURCE: washer door won't unlock
im sorry to tell you but you may need to get a repair man out to fix the lock from the inside of the washer its sort of stoped half way through its washing cycel
i gess the drum suport springs have poped off and thats why it went for a walkys in the first place
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
make sure the unit is totally level on all4 corners if this dont cure it make sure there arent any shipping bolts toward the bottom that were supposed to be removed after installing that are still on them they will have a yellow or red tag that will say remove after shipping hope this helps
Posted on Feb 25, 2010
SOURCE: Kenmore 70 series super capacity
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Two possibilities: since it will spin. None of the suggestions are very expensive.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the
transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:
Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.
See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.
You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.
Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.
Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.
See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.
Posted on Dec 05, 2010
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