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Bemis humidifier humidistat overheating motor?

Old motor froze (fried?) up. Replaced with new Falco D109 cross-referenced fan motor from Johnstone Supply. Motor overheating when not running but plugged in. Replace motor speed control with exact OEM control (part no. 908176). Fan motor's temperature within control while the box humidifier is running with speed control set at the 12:00 o'clock position or higher. When humidistat shuts off fan motor, I think that the motor gets hot. Anyone seen this kind of problem? The only electronic component not replaced is the humidistat (part no. 5560060). Is there a possible bad electronic component in the humidistat that would feed to much voltage or amperage to the new Falco motor? This original humidistat may be what fried the orginal fan motor. Also-- having trouble finding the humidistat part no. 5560060 in stock anywhere. Thank you in advance for your help.

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Buffalo12980
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SOURCE: Motor replacement

probably a fractional horsepower open frame motor - go to grainger dot com and see if you can find a replacement

Posted on Jan 20, 2008

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  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: We need a copy of the manual for a Bemis H12-600 humidifier

We found the manual!

Thanks anyway.

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: The power light on my Bemis 4D-7800 humidifier flashes.

On my water wheel several parameters must be met. 1. Power on, cord plugged in. 2. Water in tank, the float arm needs to move to indicate water present, the red light on the dash indicates no water. 3. Humidity controll set higher than the room atmosphere humidity, clockwise is higher on mine. 4. The fan speed selecter must be on either high or low, the fan won't run unless one position is selected. I hope this helps

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Broken fan blade on the 697400 humidifier

Hay Richard -- Little suckers spin to fast for gluing. Take the fan blade off , mark one side before you remove it ex: put an x on the side that is facing the wall. Take blade to a Johnstone supply house. Should be one near you somewhere, they are national. The guys there are usually very good at matching up fan blades. Make sure you keep the one you have with the mark on it. When you get home install the new blade the with the side out that was on the old blade. Hope that helps

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Water Wheel won't keep turning

Replace the Idler and drive wheel. Even if it looks good the grove in the wheels get deeper over time until they don't work anymore. In a pinch a rubber band or two doubled up in the grove will make it work till you get the parts. Clean and replace the rim of the wheel once a year, replace the wheels once every few years and the thing will last 20+ years. The real reason they don't make them like this anymore is they would be missing out on the income of selling everyone wicks all the time. It's a far superior design. I kept a few of them running for my parents for years. I'm watching for one for my house, I'd pay tripple the cost of a modern new one for one of these in decent condition.

Posted on Feb 01, 2010

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1 Answer

I just installed a Honeywell HE 360 Humidifier I purchased at Home depot. I replaced a Aprilaire model 110 . I have a 120v power duplex that is hot with the furnace blower motor, on so I assumed the sail...


Hello, in order to turn your humidifier on with the furnace the 120 volts coming from your humidifer you must hook it up to a step down transformer, then the transformer will provide 24 volts to you humidistat and solenoid valve. So you need a wire from the HUM on your control board to transformer primary side and a wire from neutral on the board to primary side of transformer. Then you need low voltage wire from secondary side of transformer to humidistat from humidistat to humidifier.

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http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/humidifiers/helpcenter/breakdowns/honeywell/honeywell-he360a1027.html
A breakdown diagram of parts etc above.
http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/110672-4.pdf
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Neither, even if the solenoid or humidistat stick, it should always drain properly. Is the unit mounted on the cold air return duct or the supply plenum? If it's mounted on the supply plenum, the water panel might be getting blown forward and spilling the water. High efficient furnaces also can leak water on the floor if its drain is restricted. If hum. is mounted on return duct make sure drain is clear by blowing through it. On Honeywell hum's I've seen the rubber hose from the solenoid valve to the distributor tray leak too, check the rubber 1/4" hose.

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The 700 will not start for this season. I called


reason why I asked they sometimes have a problem sensing current and you may need to wind the wire twice instead of one pass. If you jump the wires at the humidistat and the unit turns on its either the stat or you may want to do a relative humidity check on the house to see where your at

Best regards,
Tinner

Dec 13, 2009 | Aprilaire 700 Humidifier

1 Answer

Broken fan blade on the 697400 humidifier


Hay Richard -- Little suckers spin to fast for gluing. Take the fan blade off , mark one side before you remove it ex: put an x on the side that is facing the wall. Take blade to a Johnstone supply house. Should be one near you somewhere, they are national. The guys there are usually very good at matching up fan blades. Make sure you keep the one you have with the mark on it. When you get home install the new blade the with the side out that was on the old blade. Hope that helps

Mar 05, 2009 | Bemis 697 400 Humidifier

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The humidifer on the Sunpentown SH-1500 heater


what country are you in... winter time is low humidity to begin with.

Robert

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Water not getting to panel when furnace is on


Assuming that your humidistat panel in on the cold air return, I would remove the panel and check that some lint or dust possibly is stuck to the sensor. Also check the operation of the solenoid easily when the furnace is running by turning the dial back and forth and you can hear the solenoid open and close.

Mar 06, 2007 | Aprilaire 700 Humidifier

3 Answers

Doesn't run


When a humidifier doesn't run, it generally means it isn't receiving electrical power or the controls have automatically shut it off. 1) Be sure it's plugged in to an outlet that works and that it's turned on. Check the electrical receptacle for power, using a working lamp, appliance, or voltage tester. 2) If the receptacle seems to be dead, check the circuit breaker or fuse that serves the humidifier's circuit. 3) Check the setting on the humidistat. If it's set lower than the room's relative humidity, the humidifier won't go on; in fact, it may take several hours for the humdistat to respond to the room's changing humidity. 4) Be sure the humidifier's reservoir is full of water. 5) Unplug the humidifier unit. 6) Check the power cord. If necessary, repair the cord. 7) Remove the humidifier's cover panel. 8) Remove the humidistat and check it (as shown below). Replace it if necessary. 9) If it still doesn't work, call an appliance repairperson, take the unit into an appliance repair shop, or replace the unit. To check the humidistat, you?ll need a volt-ohm meter. A humidifier?s fan vaporizes the water in the reservoir and blows the water vapor into the house or room. If you need to check the fan, unplug the humidifier, remove the control panel, and lift the lid. Tighten the fan hub with pliers if it is loose; this should take care of rattles. If the fan doesn?t spin easily when you try to move the blades by hand or if it is still noisy, lubricate the motor bearings with oil. To establish whether power is reaching the humidistat when you know there are no problems with the plug or switches, unplug the humidifier, remove the control panel, and lift the lid. Test it with a volt-ohm meter set to the RX1 scale (or to K[omega symbol] or [omega symbol] resistance on a digital meter). Clip the meter to the humidistat terminals. The meter should jump if you turn the humidistat from high to low. If it doesn?t, you?ll need to replace the humidistat or return it to the manufacturer.

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