Question about Generac Electrical Supplies

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Generac mc-35 wont start no spark at plug

Have checked spark plug,loose wires,cleaned magnito and am still getting no power to plug, it had started right up the last time but that was almost two years ago

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  • Master
  • 2,069 Answers

Make sure magneto is VERY close to the flywheel. Like, two pieces of paper close.

Posted on May 29, 2014

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

FRANKSFIXIT
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: Colemen powermate Generator 6875w 5500

GENSET ALL PROBLEM FIXES - 2 PARTS

My answer:

Almost 90-95% of all the Genset problems found by the factory approved Genset Service Centers are related to the fact that people don't read the OWNERS MANUAL first, and just didn't put OIL in the Genset (or the right amount) - as they are shipped from the MFR without OIL in the units to begin with!!!! (See esp #3 and Final Notes below as well)

And here I thought everybody KNEW THAT!!

I guess sometimes you just have to ask the most OBVIOUS ??'s first huh (dumb as " it " may sound)?

If you bought your Genset from other then a Home Depot Store, and it's still under warranty - then you will have to contact that outlet, and see what they have to say or hopefully can do for you.

Esp all those Gensets that are Made in China and have flooded the USA market in the last 10 years or so - no thanks to our representatives in WASH DC that's for sure. It's a wonder this country even functions with all this "inferior" Made in China JUNK that keeps prematurely failing before it's normal time. Sad to say the least!

Some other obvious things to CHECK for that may be the cause of a NO start condition even after adding proper gas & oil to the brand new Genset:

1 - Some Genset gas tanks come with a gas cap "blocking insert" under the gas cap that should be removed according to your manual if it states this. (Read manual section on "First Time Starting")

2 - Is the gas tank shutoff valve FULLY OPEN? By the same token (even if the Genset is or isn't brand new) does it have an in-line fuel filter anywhere in the gas line? If not then esp read #5. Always check as well the AIR FILTER for proper cleanliness (if oiled type), or clean appearance if it's a paper element type. Clean or replace as needed!

3 - Is the RUN SWITCH set to ON or RUN position (this is purely an "Electrical ON-OFF Switch" usually a single-pole single-throw type btw, and it can go bad with high usage)? Does it move freely from OFF to ON? Is it working properly? Test it using a known good quality DVM or OHM meter! It's contacts may have become tarnished just from sitting around too long? Esp where you have saltwater conditions in the surrounding air! This switch actually & electronically is wired in REVERSE so that when switched to the ON position the wired contacts are OPEN thus letting the Ignition Coil fire for SPARK. When switched to the OFF position the wired contacts are now CLOSED thus connecting (or switching) the "Control Board" logic voltage signal (usually anywhere from +3 to +12 VDC upon start-up) to GROUND - thus cutting the RUN voltage to the Ignition Coil fire - as in SHUTDOWN. On some model designs there also may be a separate IDLE CONTROL SWITCH and POWER REGULATOR BOARD for better POWER LOAD self-regulation depending on constant variable loads placed on the Genset as related to the work-site demands. If there is NO VOLTAGE OUTPUT but yet good engine RPM function - then I would look at this part first and then #8.

4 - Is the choke being set to the proper position with or without using Ether spray to the Carb?

5 - Does the Carb have a Yellow or Black wire coming off of the bottom of the Float Bowl? This goes to the GAS CUT OFF SOLENOID mounted in the Main Jet inside the Float Bowl. NEVER CUT THIS WIRE as some know-nothings have suggested here and elsewhere in postings, as there are better ways to test the solenoid without doing that! If equipped with one - This anti-dieseling solenoid has to work properly or else flooding will occur with the gas shutoff valve OPEN.

6 - VERY IMPORTANT - Is the Carb Float stuck in the CLOSED position not letting gas into the Main Jet? If the Genset is brand brand new and truly has never been fired up even once and used, such as like that of 2-3 years or longer from actual date of purchase, then that Carb Float may very well be stuck CLOSED. Worse yet - the Main Jet may be clogged with MICRO DEBRIS coming down from the new gas tank - esp if there is NO FUEL FILTER present in the fuel line. I've heard of this happening more then just a few times myself. You might try and TAP CAREFULLY on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the stuck Float inside. If there is that colored WIRE (see #5 again) at the bottom of the Float Bowl on your model - DO NOT HIT THAT GAS SHUT-OFF SOLENOID WITH THE RUBBER HAMMER - as you WILL damage it! If this dislodges the stuck Carb Float to the point that the Genset now wants to run to some degree better then before, but not fully 100% better and to spec - then you definitely still have Carb Float and/or fuel delivery related issues, and/or MICRO DEBRIS in the Carb Bowl or Main Jet inlet. If the Genset begins to run great - as it should - and continues to do so - then your NO FUEL or NO RUN problem is solved! I would still take the Carb Bowl off and clean out the whole Assy there just as an added precaution anyway as you just never know. When Gensets are truly needed in an emergency condition you just don't want to RISK anything!! NEVER FORCE ANYTHING EITHER!! It's possibly that you might have to loosen slightly, and/or totally remove the Float Bowl (usually 2 screws) to see if indeed any gas is getting inside to the Float at all. If gas comes out readily but still no gas is getting into the Main Jet and intake then you purely have a DIRTY CARB issue and nothing more! If you're not smelling gas through the air filter box then you are FUEL STARVED. ALSO - Many a brand new shipped Genset will have some kind of NEW gas tank (usually metal gas tanks only) MICRO DEBRIS inside the tank itself or even in the rubber gas line (I've heard of this problem before, and seen this myself 100's of times with cheaper rubber hoses). That is why an added in-line FUEL FILTER (if your Genset has none) is SO important!! Usually a common $2-3 item at any auto parts store. Once gas is added to the tank all this micro debris is set free to enter into the CARB FLOAT BOWL, and that is where Carb problems will start - even with a "brand new" never run before Genset!!

Posted on Sep 10, 2008

  • 42 Answers

SOURCE: wiring diagram for Generac engine on standby generator

here is a wiring diagram for that engine:

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Posted on Mar 13, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Generac 15000 watt portable generator. It

I have solved the flooding problem . unfortanetly you must remove the carb to fix it. once you remove the carb you need to remove the fuel bowl. In the bottem of the fuel bowl there is a electronic seloniod that controols the amount of fule going to combustion. this aria had varnish and gunk built up around the plunger of the selonoid, long story short clean this out with carb and chook cleaner and put it back together. start her up and she will run like a champ.

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

mamicheddy
  • 79 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Generac portable generator 5000 watts, won't start!

I am assuming the generator worked fine before the oil change. Now that you have done the oil change the genset does not start. These generators have a safety switch, which is basically an oil pressure switch that keeps the engine from running when there is not enough oil in the engine. Make sure that there is enough oil and if there is, look for a wire that runs along side of the engine to a round component. disconnect that wire and try starting. If it does not start then try to ground out the wire to the engine block. If this does not work, then there is other engine problems.

Posted on May 08, 2009

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: generac 4000XL. engine dies when idle control switch is thrown.

there is some problem in your AMF/ATS pannel

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

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Take off the covers. you will see the magnito above the flywheel. Look to see are the wires going to it loose or is the wire going from it to the spark plug broke. If not try taking the magnito off and sanding down the ends of it. They will probably be rusty. Hope it helps.

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check all your kill wires first to see if they are touching ground somewhere.
then check magnito/coil for power to it
disconnect kill wire at magnito if there is power to it.
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if not .... you need a new magnito

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did you make sure the new spark plug was igniting if it is or if its weak you might have broke the flywheel key was it running fine when last used there can be alot of things it could be 2 cycle engines must have 120psi of compression ,the right fuel mixture,good plug right gap between flywheel & magnito (spark plug wire connect to to get spark) and not rust on flywheel & magnito hope this helps let me know thanks

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I have solved the flooding problem . unfortanetly you must remove the carb to fix it. once you remove the carb you need to remove the fuel bowl. In the bottem of the fuel bowl there is a electronic seloniod that controols the amount of fule going to combustion. this aria had varnish and gunk built up around the plunger of the selonoid, long story short clean this out with carb and chook cleaner and put it back together. start her up and she will run like a champ.

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All wires on a small engine except for the spark plug wire are to ground out the spark and stop the engine. Except a few for accessories and on generator/welders.

Knowing that, there is a small main wire that comes from your coil and leads to all other wires. It usually sits under your gas tank and runs toward your on/off switch or ignition switch. To see if it is any off your shutdowns gone bad, disconnect this wire. If still no spark then you either have a open in this wire or your magnito (coil) is bad.

If it starts, then unplug all the wires going to the kill wire and hook them up one by one until you find the one that kills the engine. Follow the wire to it's source looking for breaks in the line. If no breaks then the switch is out of place or bad.

Note: check your oil level first. Most engines come with a low oil sensor that will kill the spark if the oil level gets too low.

To check is your magnito is bad or you have a short, disconnect the wire at the magnito found by the flywheel under the flywheel cover. Tuck this wire out of the way and try to start your unit. No spark then you have a bad magnito.

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Remove your flywheel cover then unhook the small wire from the magnito (coil). Tuck this wire out of the way. Reinstall your cover than start the saw. If your spark remains constant you have a short in the kill circuit or something is bent or misaligned between the off switch and the kill wire. If you still get intermittent spark, your magnito is going bad.

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I have a 6750W yamaha engine. I drained all of the gas out and replaced it. I am not getting any spark. What can I do? Dan


First how are you checking spark. Spark tester or spark plug against metal? With a spark tester your only testing spark to the spark plug. With the spark plug against metal you do not know is spark is getting to the plug. So it's best to do both and save you time and effort. A spark plug cost less then $3 so I usually replace them when I have a starting problem automatically.

The engine may have a low oil shutdown switch. Check the oil level. If this does not do it, there should be a single black wire coming form either underneith the fuel tank or out of the casing by the recoil that leads to other wires. This should be your grounding wire for the magnito. Disconnect this wire and try to start the unit. If it starts then one of your shutdowns or switches is bad. Reconnect it while it's running to shut it down or push it's connector against the engine block to ground it out. Now if it ran you need to disconnect all wires that connect to this wire and hook them up one by one until you find one that shuts down the engine. When you find it follow it to it's source and that is you problem. If you don't get anything the next step is to remove engine shroud by the recoil (some engines require you to remove the recoil to do this). Now you should be looking a the flywheel and magnito (coil). Did connect the small wire on the magnito and tuck it out of the way so it does not get caught in the flywheel when running. Reinstall everything and try starting again. If still nothing you need to change your magnito. To set the gap on your new magnito a piece of a cigerette box or equivalant between the flywheel's magnetic portion and the magnito should give you the proper gap.


Note: all wires on a small engine are to ground out the spark except a few others on generator which provide power to generator field.

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