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Right front burner only works on hi setting model C97-440721

Right front burner only works on hi setting

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This is usually caused from a bad switch. I assume you have an electric range.

Posted on Apr 02, 2014

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SOURCE: Front right burner on GE glass top range not working

If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Posted on Jul 24, 2010

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1 Answer

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Hi friarjp - I am happy to assist you. First, I will need your model number to better address the issue at hand. With this information I can verify which part you need exactly. Is it the right, left, back or front burner element or are you referring to the bake and/or broiler element.

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This is an easy repair. Just contact us at:

http://www.fixya.com/repair/d499389-accurate_appliance_repair_service with your model number and we will get the correct burner out to you right away.
You will be cooking again in no time!

Call us from 7 AM until 9 PM CST. Thanks, Ella

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My right front burner quit working, can I replace it?


Hi, Could you get me a model # so I can look this up and give you instruction on how to change the burner

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Need Manual For Electrolux Oven Model EOB 985GR


Having trouble locating the correct model number. Look at following areas for the model number
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1 Answer

Front right burner on GE glass top range not working


If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Feb 28, 2009 | GE Profile JKP18 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Indicators lights come on


First thing to check is to put your hand over the burner when the indicator comes on and see if the burner is actually hot! DO NOT actually touch the burner! The smell of your own burning flesh is not so pleasant, and could cause you to pass out with your hand still on the burner or something like that, so be careful. More than likely, the problem is with the burner switch, but could be with anything between that and the actual element.

What did they quote you $350 to repair???? Was that parts and labor, or just parts? Sounds very high. If, however, you have one of the older stoves with a ceramic top that had the element in the top, you have to replace the whole thing to fix one burner, not very smart, economically. Newer stoves use seperate elements beneath the glass top, and so are much less expensive to repair.

Go to the Sears.com website, and click on the parts link (it's in a line of grey typed links, relatively small font, a couple of inches below the top of the website home page, and toward the right side.) Type in your model number on the right side of the parts page where it says to, and it will come up with a parts breakdown that has a list of the parts and their prices. If they never sold your model, you might have to come up with a similar model that they did sell in order to get parts listings that would work.

That will at least give you an idea of prices. You should also look at the switch for that burner.  If the burner won't run on either size setting, I'd suspect the switch or that the power is not getting to that switch.

Remember, you are working with 220 VOLTS here, and be very careful. But if you can handle a voltmeter, you can determine if power is getting to the switch, and getting out of the switch, and if it is getting to the element. You can buy a DVM at Radio Shack or Sears, or just about anywhere else, these days. Elenco is a company that makes decent ones very cheaply, and you can buy them online. Or you might have a friend or relative who has one at home, and knows how to use it around 220 volt circuits....

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1 Answer

My right front burner will not turn off on my electric stove top?


Hello, the switch controls the element ,if the element is staying on replace the switch.Please note any electrical repairs should be performed by an authorized service technician. good luck

Dec 20, 2008 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

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