They are hard to remove and replace. I have done hundreds of these. The best tool to use would be a pair of wire cutters or side cutters. The will grip the pin for removal and re installation. Grab the pin at the base and push the side cutters down to pry the pin out of the wheel. The best way to do it is remove the wheel. Unplug the unit first, then squeeze the two tabs in the middle. The wheel will then lift off. Take a picture of it first so that installation will be easy. Let me know if you need any more assistance.
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Should be the same as my lesabre. You have to remove the wheel well cover (black plastic cover in the wheel well). You *might* be able to remove the clips from the front and bend it back far enough to reach in to remove the bulb. The clips are easy to remive. Using a flat screw drive, small pliers or a trim removal tool pull the center pin back about 1/4 inch. This release the ears on the pin and you should be able to pull the entire clip out.
I was unable to find your exact mower, however, most rear mower wheels come off as follows: remove the black rubber cap in the center of the wheel hub. A channel lock plier and one of those paint can lid removers generally works well for removing the flexible cap. You should then see a flat metal horse-shoe shaped retaining ring. One should ideally remove that with a pair of hog ring pliers. These pliers have two pins that fit into the holes on the retaining ring and pull them farther apart. However, if you do not have the right tool, you can usually pry a retraining ring off with a couple of flat blade screw drivers. Look to be sure there is no cotter pin that may need removed. To remove a cotter pin, use a pair of pliers and an ice pick or screwdriver. When you take off the wheel, there will be a piece of metal approximately one and half inches by 1/4 inch on the axle that slides into a little groove directly on the axle. Be careful not to lose it. When you put the wheel back on, you will need to slide that pin which I think is called a "key" back through the hub of the wheel. Good luck.
Not sure what you are calling a "circlip". I have seen three basic ways to hold the front wheel on. The first and most common is the E-clip. The E-clip is removed by inserting a straight blade screwdriver into the gap and rotating to lift it up and then pulling it up. I use a set of channel lock pliers to reinstall the E-clip. The second is an external snap ring. There is tool specifically designed to remove the snap ring, it is called snap ring pliers. If you go looking to get a pair, keep iin mind there are internal and external. Although Channel Lock makes a snap ring plier that can be used for external and internal. I have had a set of these for many years and love them. The third way I have seen is a cotter pin. Cotter pins are removed with pliers.
you need to take your pliers and straighten the curved end to remove the pin and then pull the wheel off. Be sure that your bend the pin back to the way it was after you re-install the wheel. hope this helps you
Remove the front face of the dryer and continue to disassemble the dryer until you have access to the blower wheel. The blower wheel is manufactured with a D shaped hole in the middle. If the whole on the inside of the blower wheel become rounded, then the wheel rotates at a different speed than your motor, causing the loud vibrations you have been hearing.
Using the pliers, remove the holding pin & blower wheel clamp. The clamp is the green ring and the pin is the small horse-shoe shaped pin with an arrow pointing to it.
Pull the old blower wheel off. You should see that the whole in the center is round rather than D-shaped.
to remove the shifter put your E-BREAK on and shift you car all the way in third gear then look on the back of the shifter there is a pin all you need to do is take a flat head screwdriver of needle nose pliers and pull the pin out
I suggest pulling the axle out a bit to allow the caliper assy more freedom of movement. Then see if you can get the pins out. If not, you can put something (like a piece of wood) between the pistons and the rotor on the outside and gently pump the pedal to see if that does in fact loosen the pins.
But a more fundemental question: is the new floating rotor the EXACT diameter as the OEM (or whatever was on there) rotor? It sounds to me like the rotor is jammed against the pins. If it is the same size, are the new pads the same shape as the old ones (same profile on the metal backing)?
you have two different knobs to replace?..is it the water level knob or the timer knob?
if its the timer knob you need to remove, look underneath the timer and you will find a black plastic pin depressed at the middle. pull it slowly for about 1/4 of an inch.
then you can remove the knob in the front of the timer switch.
in putting it back, install the knob first in the timer and then depressed that black plastic pin to lock the knob.
be carefull not to pull the plastic pin all the way out. it would be very hard to put it back in.
i have the graco quattro tour sport, i put it together & noticed the swivel lock was missing! I have to take the wheel back tonight but i had already put it on the pram! after reading 'Adorough's' comment i had good look at the wheel to figure out how to get it off. 1) fold the pram up and stand it so the front wheels are up. 2) if you look round the back of the front wheel you should see a round 'pin' which is set back, you well need a pen or something pointy to press the pin in & pull the wheel! That worked for me.