Question about Kenmore 400 6943 Dryer
Dryer shuts off after a few minutes
A lot of times that is a sign that the motor is beginning to go bad.
Posted on May 19, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kenmore dryer
This may not be the solution to your exact problem but for those looking for why there timer will not advance and why it keeps running even when the items are dry: The usual problem is not the timer but the mosture sensor (if your dryer has one).
1: Check the mosture sensor light/indicator. If is still shows some mosture or flashes even when the items are dry, you have a mosture sensor problem, probably not a timer issue - luck you.
2: Check if the timer will advance and the dryer will turn off when you have it in the TIMED mode (i.e. 10mins - NOT the more/less dry modes.) If so, then it is indeed a sensor problem.
2: Check that the wires to the mosture sensor have not fallen off (as in my case - a simple repair). The senor is usually two metal bars somewhere near the front part of the inside of your dryer. You may have to take off the door and the front pannel (be sure to unplug the dryer first) to get at the two wires to clip on to the sensor. Clean any lint and make sure they are conneted. If well connected then replace the sensor ($15-$20 and very easy to do).
Posted on Jul 01, 2008
E1 error code indicates an open thermistor or open thermistor circuit. A thermistor is a component that relays the temperature in the dryer to the control board. If the thermistor has failed, Error code E1 will be displayed.
You need to call a repair person to fix it.
Posted on Dec 18, 2008
SOURCE: kenmore electric dryer
If it won't shut off, would suspect the timer motor has failed, such that it cannot turn itself to the off position; I assume it will turn off when twisting the dial manually.
Posted on Aug 09, 2009
If you wish to clean the interior cabinet of the dryer follow these steps:
1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltages are still present even with the dryer turned off.
2. Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen. IMPORTANT: You must remove the lint screen first in order to remove the blower fan housing.
3. Remove the lower toe panel directly below the dryer door by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. NOTE: For better access, you can prop the front feet of the dryer up (a 2x4 works well).
4. Loosen the screws on the blower fan housing directly below the drum and remove. There's usually a small clip holding the cover in at the bottom that you may need to pull out to release. NOTE: You may also have to disconnect the auto dry sensor plug (yellow wires with white plug - use a small screwdriver to release the locking tabs) and/or ground wire to accommodate removal of the cover.
You should now have access to the dryer interior and the blower fan squirrel cage motor. Take the time to clean out the blower fan housing cover as well. A long bristle brush made for dryers works well at removing any lint inside the dryer in the hard to reach places, followed by vacuuming.
NOTE: After cleaning, you may experience a slight burning odor. This is normal as lint gets stirred up in the cleaning process and can settle on the heating components. The odor should dissipate after a short period of use.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
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Posted on Dec 11, 2010
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