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If your have power and light etc come on then we know you are good for power. I'll assume that is OK.
you are not getting any lights on the machine you have a power issue or
a stuck float valve. That requires another explanation.
Check the shutoff for the water supply to the unit.
I will also assume there is no water collecting inside the unit.
enters this machine under city water pressure. It is not pumped in. A
solenoid switch opens the system and allows the water in. The solenoid
is controlled by the timer. So those at the two things you need to
When the machine starts you should hear a click as the
solenoid opens. The solenoid in located under the machine. Turn the
machine on and listen for the click. If you do not hear a click we have
Remove the machine. It is usually screwed to the
underside of the counter. You may have to lower it by turning the feet
with a wrench. Usually you can lift it enough to get it to slide out.
the machine on in the start of the cycle your timer should be telling
the solenoid to open. To test put a test light or voltage meter across
the terminals of the solenoid. The solenoid is located where the water
supply line connects under the unit. If you have power the timer is
working. You would replace the solenoid. If you do not have power the
timer is faulty.
Chances are it is the solenoid. Just unscrew,
disconnect the water lines and find a replacement part. Installation is
the reverse of removal.
Hope this helps. Please rate this answer if it helps you.
Good day, There can only be 2 causes for low water supply to the ice maker. 1. The water line from the house supply is restricted or corroded before it gets to the ice maker water valve. Shut off the water to the house at the meter. Remove the water line from the water valve at the machine. Have one person point it into a large bucket while the other person turns the valve on completely for a 15 second count. It should come out smartly. If not, the line and in particular the valve and fittings will need to be replaced, as needed. 2. The diaphragm inside the water valve on the machine has swelled and the water valve assembly must be replaced.
To cure the F35 with the occasional SUD fault showing in the display the problem means that you need to unplug the machine from the mains and turn off the water supply. Then remove the lower cover, looking at it from the front where the glass door is, so you can see the water pump. On the water pump there is a round cover, turn it counter clockwise to get it loose, then the the filter will come out. You may find some interesting things in there! Clean it and screw it back on. Make sure the machine is powered off at the mains for 30 minutes in total to reset the computer and clear the fault display. Reconnect the mains power and turn the water supply back on. The machine should now operate correctly.
Hi Kathy. Let's try to go through this step by step. Is there water pressure in the pipes leading to the machine? You might be able to check this if there is another appliance on the same pipework. If, say, a dishwasher next to the washing machine works OK then the problem lies in the washing machine.
No there is no water there either - then maybe a valve in the pipework has been clogged up with grit from the water supply. This can happen if the water supply company has being carrying out maintenance nearby. Closing and opening the valves in the line can often clear this kind of blockage.
Yes there is water pressure - then check for a kink in the hose leading to the machine.
OK there? Disconnect the machine from the power socket, turn off the water supply to the machine and disconnect the supply hose(s) at the machine. Check the little gauze filter where the pipe(s) go into the machine and clear them of any build-up of grit. If there is a blockage visible it would be a good idea to turn the water back on a little and run the hose into a bucket to get rid of grit in the flexible hoses.
OK there too? Maybe the electrically operated inlet valve itself is jammed shut. When you turn on the power to the machine and start a wash cycle you should hear a click as the valve opens. If you don't, the inlet valve could be clogged up or broken, or an electrical connection may have come off through vibration. If this is the case you may need to get an engineer to investigate the matter.
I hope this helps - if not please give further details if you can and I'll try to think of something else :-)
Water supply to the washer is done through an electromagnet valve,loocated at the pipe's enterance to the machine. A defect in the valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it, and the valve may leak and drip water into the tub.Test that it get power (with a multi- meter). In case it get power and dosen't work - You can easyly open the valve and clean it (from scale or other dirt). Be aware you should disconnect the power cable from the machine before doing it !!!!!
Check as well for valve's coil resistance. In case you have no resistance measurement - you should replace for a new valve.
Good luck !!