How do i test the stator, this one has 4 wires 2 going to the little stator strands the other 2 going to the larger stator strands, i get audible continuity when one lead is grounded and the other tou
The motor will just hum unless i rotate the shaft clockwise then it spins but the wires get hot, someone had wired two of the wires together and 2 to the switch, this unit has what appears to be a centrifugal switch at the back of the motor with a contact switch around the shaft
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Here's a link for a Service Manual which applies to your mixer. While the motor works as you have stated, you might wish to test the motor's stator, and if that is all right, test the armature. There is plenty of information on armature testing on line.
Make sure it's unplugged, remove and inspect the carbon brushes one at a time under those black screws on the side. They are keyed with one corner of the square ground off so will only go in properly one way so eyes open when you take them out. If they are less than 10mm long replace them. Next would be look under the back cover for a broken wire to the black square speed control plate. Broken wires are only likely to be one of the bottom 2 on either side. Any more testing is going to require a multimeter.
usually 2 wires that AC current goes through. check with volt meter set to ohms test for resistance . if you know the value .of resistance ? but if the machine has power but does not run . you know there is a thermal fuse hidden .once blown it does not reset..so you can throw it away. please don't..just replace the fuse or get a resettable one Radio shack or local electronic store . it is a size of a ADVIL pill with 2 wires inline of power coming in to switch ... >^.^<
several possibilities. but we need the model number for your mixer, the model number can be found underneath you mixer on a white tag about 1 inch x 3 inches, it will also have your serial number, that would be important to know because there have been parts made in different versions for different years made, so both would be a good thing to get back to us with. The possible problems could be in no real order>>> 1. your power outlet in your house 2 the power cord to the mixer 3 the speed control switch inside the mixer 4 the carbon brushes inside the motor head of the mixer 5 the armature a motor part 6 the stator a motor part The first four are easy fixes the last two will require a full tear down. but there are lots of things to test first. let us know.
If you took your brushes out to check them then your mixer will not work if you put the brushes back in the wrong way even if you fixed the original problem. the beveled side of the brushes must go back into the brush holders a very specific way/direction because the brush holders have a pinched corner on one edge that allows the brush to slide past and to make contact with the armature. if you are sure that the brushes are in the correct way lets proceed. (If not get a flashlight and look inside the brush holder for the pinched down corner and reinsert the brushes the right way) fist the basics, I know it seems dumb to even think this but ... well you know. 1. check the outlet you are using for the mixer to see that it has power. 2. The outlet is hot, look at the rar top of the mixer you will see a small "Phillips Head" screw. take it out. and lift up and out at the same time to remove the the rear motor head cover. 3. take a moment and look at what you see. now look at the cord that you use to plug the mixer into the outlet. follow it back into the mixer head and you will see three wires. Green = ground and it is attached to the mixer frame with a #3 Phillips screw, leave it alone. the other two wires, one black and one white attach to what is called the speed control board by means of two flag style connectors. Are they attached? Or have they or either one of them come off? 4. if they are attached to the flag terminals, then get a multi meter and check for power between the terminals. the black test probe goes to the black lead on the mixer terminal, your red test lead goes on the white flag terminal attached to the mixer. personally i would disconnect these two leads before I tested them to avoid any safety issues with the mixer. If ther is no power to the terminals when you p,lug the cord into the wall then the cord is bad. Order one and replace it. you could also test the cord another way by checking for ohms resistance and you won't have to plug the cord in at all. Ohms testing is safer. 5, if the cord is good then the next thing to look at is the phase control board. that is a small computer style board above and behind the big black and copper board with 3 screws in it. It has 4 wires coming out of it. You probably have no real way to test this unless you are familiar with electrical :Bread Board" circuitry. i usually just carry a new one with me and replace it. It's faster. 6. If the system still does not start I remove speed control plate/board,The black and copper one. (there is a spring attached that will have to be removed, if you let it snap back into the machine you will have to dismantle the entire motor head to dig it out, so hook a cloth under it's clip that will hold it and keep it from snapping back into the mixer). Now install a new spped plate and test again. if you still have no power there are only two electric problems left one is the armature and the stator which are the two components that make up the motor, but it will require a complete tear down to replace. I have never had a motor go out. the problem is usually the cord or brushes. Let me know if this helped. If not we can post a location to the service manual and parts list for your mixer.
There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:
Motor start capacitor Start switch (electronic or mechanical) Burned wiring Motor start winding
The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.
The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.
Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.
Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.
The answer is clearly in the starting circuit which doesn't have too many parts, but depends on the type of starting circuit your mixer uses (electronic or mechanical start switch). I'm assuming your mixer isn't very old, as the old units used brushed motors which did not have starting circuits.
The parts of the starting circuit are the motor start winding, the start capacitor and the start switch (probably electronic in your case which is a small silver box with four wire terminals on it). The capacitor should be tested with a multimeter after verifying it's not holding a charge (check with multimeter set to DC Volts, mixer unplugged, should read zero volts). Start winding should be tested with the meter to measure ohms. Locate the wires leading to the motor (hopefully only three wires) and you should get a reading for all three combinations of measurements (wire 1-to-wire 2, 2-to-3, 1-to-3) if meter indicates open on any of these, motor stator is bad(this is pretty rare and quite expensive). Electronic start switches are not very simple to test, but if the capacitor and motor test out OK with the meter, and all the wiring is intact (look closely for loose wires, burned wires, poorly crimped terminals, etc.) then it must be the start switch.
I had this problem also: power to the motor, motor not running.
Solution was simple: remove the 2 stators things from the sides of the main housing, clean all the black dust off them, re-insert and everything works fine.
The dust problem is similar to model train sets that I had as a kid at Christmas, the black dust acts as an insulator, preventing power from travelling between two metal parts that you'd think otherwise would conduct.
I know this may sound stupid, but check that you have the earth wire from the mains connector, athinish black wire connected to the terminal on the mixer. My Kenwood would not run after i made a capacitor repar. The motor just "Buzzed" until i put the thin black earth strap back onto the casing.
I sincerely hope this helps,
Brian Le Roux
I just did this last week!
1 Unplug Mixer
2 Remove screw on TOP of mixer body, at back.
3 Remove rear cover and paper-gasket thing (its not the end of
the world if you end up tearing it a little).
4 the phase control (little circuit board w/wires) is at the top (you
should see it very easily) held on by one screw, remove it.
5 when the circuit board is unscrewed, disconnect all the wires
that are connected FROM THE CIRCUIT BOARD to the
black control plate (NOT all wires-there should be 4 left on
the control plate at this point). you don't need to
remember where all the colors go as the control plate is
labeled->but looking at them and making sure you
understand the abbreviations would be beneficial
(BK=black, BL=Blue RW=Red&White W=white R=red etc.
6 install new phase control (screw), either buy new thermal
grease (used to keep the board cool->it transfers heat to
the mixer's housing) or try to salvage what you can from
the old one.
7 connect wires, paying attention to labels.
8 reinstall paper gasket, then cover, then screw to hold on back-