Question about Vacuums
Hair and debris works it's way under the end caps of the brush roll causing a restriction. If you can't clean the debris out and get the brush roll spinning greenly you may need to replace the brush roll.
Posted on Mar 26, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: belt burning
the beater bar probably needs to be removed & cleaned. the shaft & bearings get bound up with hair, string, etc.. with the belt off the bar, it should spin fairly easily. if it's hard to turn,(belt off) then it's bound up.
Posted on Jun 15, 2007
There is a brush reset button on the handle. Check to see if this has been pushed in. Also check to see that the brush slider has also been switched on. Usually belts are protected on this model but you should be able to remove the bottom sole plate where the base of the vacuum is (and beater bar). If the belt cover can't be removed then it has to be repaired professionally.
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
SOURCE: how to change a drive belt
OK, here goes... NOTE - any use of the words LEFT and RIGHT assume that you are looking from the REAR of the machine. NOTE ALSO - the machine has two toothed belts, it makes sense to change both while you're at it. Incidentally, this is a job you shouldn't have to do very often - Sebo belts usually last at least 10 years.
STEP 1. Separate the base from the bag compartment: press the button at bottom front centre of bag compartment and lift bag compartment upwards away from base. Sometimes this is quite stiff and four hands would be useful, you can lever it from behind with something relatively soft (the plastic handle of a dishwash brush works well) but take care to lift vertically upwards, not sideways or you risk bending a metal lever that's hard to get back into shape again. Rest assured that once you've pressed that button there is nothing holding the two parts together other than friction!
STEP 2. Turn the base upside-down and undo the FOUR DEEPLY-RECESSED SCREWS. All the surface-mounted screws are irrelevant to this job.
STEP 3. Turn the complete base right-way up, release the foot pedal and move the vacuum tubes out of vertical. The top cover will then lift off. You will see there are two belts - the pulley device between the motor and the brush roller is the sensor that measures the drag on the brushes and operates the automatic height adjuster to maintain constant drag. To the right of that double pulley is the electronic circuit board - note that it has a sensor that locates within the pulley device, be careful not to damage it.
STEP 4. At the left end of the motor cover, the drive cog is concealed by a small cover. Lift this cover out vertically, noting how it locates in the frame for when you come to put it back. Next, although not essential, it helps to remove the metal lever because if it falls out when you're not looking you may later be uncertain about how to locate the small coil spring. So slide that lever out towards the motor, noting how the spring locates.
STEP 5. Undo the two screws holding the circuit board (take care the washers don't slip away). Then undo the four screws holding the double pulley. Once that's free, you'll be able to change the belts.
Re-assembly is simply the reverse of the above process.
If you need more help, just ask. Please remember to rate this response.
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
CHECK ROLLER BRUSH PROBALLY HAS STRING WRAP UP AROUND THE ROLLER OR THE END BEARINGS ARE FROZEN IF SO SRAY WD40 IN BEARINGS TILL THEY FREE UP OR REPLACE ROLLER BRUSH
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
To help out here the hood has 6 screws on the underside of the machine and 2 post snaps at the rear of the hood. They pop out when lifting the rear of the hood. The air motor is as described above, 2 on bottom and 2 on top. When removed the air motor again has 2 screws on the cover of the gear set and a couple clips which come loose readily when the screws are removed. This exposes the gear set. Remove the gears and free the air motor shaft. Clean, lubricate and reassemble. You should be good to go. The Air motor is the only weak link in the machine. The bearings seize due to exposure as moist air is pulled through the air motor to drive the gear set. Great idea! Hoover should have used a stainless drive gear and bearings or a plastic bearing that would hold up to the RPM of the motor. Regardless, as is it will be plagued with the problem for the life of the machine unless you upgrade. Hoover may have solved this for all I know. Hint: The motor will not create any torque until the suction tank is in place. Oh, and keep the screen clean. That is the motor intake.
Posted on Jan 27, 2010
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bearings in the brushroll might be siezing. If you start snapping belts, change the brushroll. the roller brush that most likely needs to be cleaned,clean the hair from the brush and under the belt and make sure the bar is positioned in the vacuum properly and turns easily. Your problem could be the clutch unit what has probably happened is either the clutch plates are warn, or the 3 balls in the clutch have warn a large grove in there fixing plate or the plastic hub that the brush roller to clutch belts runs on has melted this hub melting is the most common of all clutch faults.
There are no spares available for repairing the clutch other than the motor to clutch belt & the clutch to brush belt. Here is a diagram to help you
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