Question about Goodman Heating & Cooling
Where is fuse
Im assuming you mean the low voltage fuse? In that case its located on the circuit board inside the electrical panel on the unit. If looking for the high voltage fuse (breaker) you should have a disconnect outside protected by a breaker inside at the electric service panel (breaker box).
Posted on May 15, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
goodman makes the cheapest unit on the market bar none. they are the absolute lowest end of the scale when buying a system. they are for that reason the best selling unit in the industry. so you should expect loud and clunky performance. expect only that they will perform, but dont even begin to expect them to perform quietly or smoothly. your warranty is only a year on these cheap pieces of equipment compared to a 5 or 10 year parts and labor warranty on trane and am standard equipment,so the labor will eat you alive on the cheap stuff. and when the expensive parts fail they will be really expensive.all compressors are now manufactured by about three compressor manufacturers, copeland tecumseh and bristol. so what ever brand you buy will have possibly the same compressor in it. all ac s in recent years have expansion valves that require a hard start kit. many cheap sluggo installers will not add the required hs kit even though they know it is needed and required by the manufacturer. so if the txv ( thermostatic expansion valve ) is a non pressure equalizing valve it has trouble starting against unequal pressure and voila , the compressor wont start. i have seen many a dumb+++ add a start kit to boost starting torque when the oem run capacitor is in fact weak or bad . if run cap is weak (test it) the start cap will temp fix. but you have not really fixed the problem if the run cap is bad eventually it will fail then no start again etc. despite the fact its a year old heres what you need to do. check filter for cleanliness. vacuum out drain for clean and clear drainage, run unit 15 minutes on a warm day , check run caps on fan outside and on compressor outside . they should be within 10 percent of rated mf values printed on side.feel suction line, cold? ok. not cold? call a pro for under charged or inefficient compressor. if cold then look at contactor points. they should be clean and golden colored. no char ,no gray or dark areas. a pro can tell with gages if charge is low or compressor is weak. as high pressure falls off and gets low ,suction pressure gets weak and rises. this would be a weak or bad compressor. as head ( high) pressure falls and suction pressure also falls this would be a case of low ref charge. you as a home owner can stick a cheap thermometor in the incoming and outgoing duct and expect to see a difference of 20 degrees . less equals low charge, or weak compressor,
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
I would suspect you have a problem in the defrost circuit of your heat pump. there are a couple of things you can try. first just run the system on emergency heat and see what happens. you could have a defrost board that is shorting when it kicks into defrost. it sends a signal back to the furnace so it will come on during defrost. if you do not blow a fuse as long as you are running in emergency heat, i would suspect the defrost control board. also you could have a dead short in the wire that runs from the "w" terminal on furnace control board, out to the heat pump. keep in mind that any of the wires could be the cause and i am just tying to give you the most common things. your furnace will still run if you unhook all the low voltage wiring out at the heat pump. if you do this and stop blowing fuses. you know it is something on that wiring. goodl luck.
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
SOURCE: Replaced my 5-year old 3-ton 12 SEER Goodman outside condensing unit with an older 3-ton RUDD condensing unit because of lack of funds. Now the compressor has gone out on the RUDD. Is it better to rep
A new unit will be 13+ seer unless you can find someone that has replaced a compressor or has one left over from pre 2006 stock. Our wise Government with all its resources decided that we aren't smart enough to turn off the lights to save energy, so they chose to end the med and low price lines. And the same bunch of smart ones decided that now R22 because of its chlorien content being bad for the air (5% of what R12 was) so we have R410A and others that no one knows how much cancer or daMAGE THEY WILL DO OVER TIME. So now if you replace your AC unit out side with a new one be sure its compatable with the refrigerant inside and beware soem manufacturers wont stand up to full warranty if you dont buy an indoor coil and rerplace it too.
We get what we deserve in Washington DC and if our guy didnt support this stuf too many other folks guys did. We just dont talk about it enough. AND WE SHOULD. But then again you like me are probably RITCH. So we have to give up our wealth to the government so they can redistribute it and buy more votes. And we can stay working too much to talk about it.
Just burns my back side like a 4 foot flame.
Read tween the politics and you'll get my recomendation.
Buy your self a compressor and get someone qualified to install it or see if the old goodman one will interchange easily.
Posted on May 12, 2009
Hi, the outdoor unit will start to freeze when it is cold outside, but also it should go into a defrost mode to melt this ice either by the defrost board or defrost thermostat. You will know as steam will rise like smoke and some folks think it is on fire. If it never goes into defrost, get back to us and we can go through some things to check. Merry Christmas,
Posted on Dec 24, 2009
Easy: Turn the "fan" switch to on at the thermostat and see if the blower starts. If no start, check breaker at breaker box. Check service disconnect at or near the air handler. With the breaker and/or service disconnect OFF check the 3 or 5 amp fuse inside the top cover in the air handler.
Not so easy: (You must know what you are doing for this part or let an HVAC Tech do it for you) Open thermostat and firmly jump the Y and R terminals to see if you get the compressor to start for no more than 30 seconds. (don't do it more than once.) Jump the G and R terminals to see if you get the blower to start. If so, u have a bad thermostat. If not, check the transformer inside the same cover in air handler for proper voltage. (24V. Make sure you also get 220 on the opposite side of the transformer)
If the blower comes on, but the heat pump doesnt start, open the side cover of the heat pump, with the thermostat on cool, and the temp. setting as low as possible for at least 10 minutes see if the contactor is pulled in. If so, check the capacitor and see if it's blown out. Be super careful these systems operate with 220v and the amperes are enough to kill you if you make a simple mistake.
Posted on Aug 28, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 30, 2014 | Goodman Manufacturing Goodman GPH1342M41...
"PLACE A JUMPER (PIECE OF WIRE) BETWEEN Y AND W IF YOU ARE USING A HEAT PUMP WITHOUT AUXILIARY/BACKUP HEAT." if this dosnt work check the fuse in the air handler you may have blown it if you did not turn the unit off before installing.
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