Question about Flotec FP0S2400A-03 1/3 HP 2,500 GPH Automatic Submersible Sump Pump

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Canned motor pumps, single and multistage tripping

Pump tripping within 35 seconds after startup

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  • Daryl Gleaton Mar 29, 2014

    You need to replace the G.F.I. breaker it can no longer handle the load. They do fail after several years, especially if in a damp basement or crawl space. Hire an electrician if you are not familiar with electrical wiring !!!!

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Replace the GBI breaker it is bad.

Posted on Mar 29, 2014

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If your circuit breaker is tripping when you turn the pump on it is caused by a bad motor. The motor probably has a short in it causing the breaker to trip,
Replace your pump and that should solve your problem with the breaker.
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I have a Polaris PB4-60 booster pump, less than 3yrs old. I turned the pump and left. When I got back 1hr later, the pump was not running. Breakers had been tripped. Each time we reset the breakers and...


If the device that tripped is a ground fault circuit interupter (GFCI) breaker or receptacle then it is likely caused by 5mA or more of leakage current to ground within the motor. If what tripped is a circuit breaker then there are likely shorted turns within the motor. Usually either of this issues requires a new motor.

If you are not wanting to turn wrenches yourselfthen my best suggestion is to bring it to Leslies Pool Supplies and they oftencan put it right for the price of the parts while you watch (they might not have some parts in stock).

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Any time an electrical appliance trips a breaker there is only several causes:
1 - appliance is pulling more amperage than the breaker was built for.
2 - breaker is faulty
3 - a "hot" wire is touching "ground"
4 - screws (where wire is attached) in the pump or breaker are loose

1 - If the appliance is pulling more amperage than the breaker (or wiring) will allow, then check the appliance to see what amperage it's rated at. If this is more than the breaker will allow, you'll have to plug the appliance into a circuit that will take that amperage. If the appliance rating is within the limits of the wiring & breaker, then check #2, #3 or #4 above. If everything is okay with the remaining possibilities, then you have problems within the pump. Do it yourself'ers usually have a bad time when they open an electric motor. I suggest you take the motor to a electric motor repair shop or seek help from the Sta-Rite pump Customer Service.

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The compressor suddenly trip off and it runs and after few minutes it trip off again


Compressor tipping is typically due to overheating. A single bimetal disc thermostat (e.g. Klixon brand device) in located within the motor windings within hermetically sealed compressors which will cut off motor current after the local windings have sufficiently overheated.

Unfortunately, by the time this limiter has activated, the compressor motor and pump has typically already suffered mild to major damage.

Compressor overheating is typically a result of low freon. The freon, besides cooling the compressor, also carries the lubricant, so low freon results in a hot compressor with poor lubrication, with some degree of permanent damage by the time the internal limiter has activated.

There are a few other possibilities, depending on system design, but some version of the above scenario is typical.

When the compressor runs hot, this also initiates chemical changes in the freon and oil resulting in acids with further attack both the compressor pump, motor windings and motor bearings, a viscous circle.

Compressor overheating can also be a result of contaminants circulating within the freon or evolving mechanical failure problems within the compressor pump or motor.

Better systems (very few high end residential central AC systems) include OEM or field installed high freon pressure and low freon pressure cut out switches connected to circuits which stop the compressor and keep it off when pressure are well beyond desired.
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Additional protection options are a compressor discharge temperature limit switch (shuts off the compressor if the outlet freon goes well above desirable outlet temps), and a flow switch which sense adequate condenser fan air flow and only allows the compressor to run when adequate air flow is present (a second or so after the condenser fan has started). (Since condenser air flow is what removes all the system and interior heat, the compressor should not run unless airflow is appropriate.)

While all the above 4 safety device strategies are relatively inexpensive, they are not present in the vast majority of residential AC systems sold in the US.

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Sounds like its frozen and causing a very heavy load on your circuit. If the motor gets hot within seconds, its shot and needs replacing. Have you attempted to turn the motor over by hand ?

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