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Fit new ball bearing to worn shaft on car trailer.

Trailer stub shaft worn requiring shim fitted or retaining bearing to shaft

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 39 Answers

SOURCE: 95 f-250 right front stub shaft removal

I think if you put a pry bar behind the knuckle and give it a quick bump it will just pop out it has a ring on the inside that holds it in. Just uses pressure to keep it in place I will look in a few but I am sure that is what to do.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: front hub bearing removal 2002 dodge ram 1500 4WD 4.7L V8

i just did a 2002 2500 4x4 with a dana straight axle and had no problem getting on the bolts with a 9/16 12 point socket on a 6 inch extension. If you do not use an extension the head of the ratchet will hit the yoke of the axle shaft.

Posted on Feb 18, 2009

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: DRUM BEARING REPLACEMENT KIT Frigidaire GLER341AS2 Dryer

Hi. I don't work on many Frigidaire's, but that pesky ball bearing does not go into any of those grooves. It goes in the very back center of the cradle, sandwiched between the ball and a metal strip on the back side of the cradle. (It is suppose to drain off static electricity from the drum. If it gets lost, it's not a major loss) As for lube, just put a gob of the stuff that comes with the kit in the bottom of the cradle before reinstalling drum.

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: how do i change ball bearings on tiller shaft

Hello mikeant2:

Usually Heat and a Press/Puller are Required to Remove the Bearing from the Shaft. Sometimes I have even had to Cut the Bearings Off with a Die Grinder.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 13, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: cannot find tool to loosen front wheel bearing lock nut

I have a 1995 Geo Tracker 4WD with the same exact problem,However I did some research . You will need to go to the Kent Moore Website which makes specialty tools and look up Wheel bearing socket "J-37763" I saw the picture of it and it looks like there are 4 small rounded teeth/tabs. Unfortunately get ready to spend some money - cost is about $70.00 not including shipping/handling
I hope that this Info. helps - Jim H.

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

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I have a Frigidaire Gallery dryer model gler341as2 that squeels cer loud at times. what kind of grease do I use on the back shaft and tensioner?


That is a Hi Temp grease. It is sold under a Frigidaire part number
#5303307893. If any of the parts at that back ball assembly are worn, it should be replaced. Don't try buying the parts separately, they sell a complete back bearing kit that sells much cheaper than if you purchased each part. The kit also comes with the HI temp grease inside. Here is the kit # 5303281153. Includes that trailer hitch looking ball and the socket it fits into. Also look at the drum front edge. Should be a plastic bearing strip all the way around the drum opening that just snaps in place. Its in 2 section. If broken or missing replace those also. Thats the front bearing surface..

Apr 06, 2015 | Frigidaire Dryers

1 Answer

Replace cv joints


Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.



FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL
  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.

May 07, 2014 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Transmission problems


Worn thrust bearing and shafts. Strip the gear box, fit new thrust bearing shims and selector arm. Adjust as required. Reassemble and top up with fresh oil.

Oct 13, 2013 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

Cv joints


Hi Thomas, I have not changed CV's on your type of vehicle, but can give you the path to follow. Here we go; Always work with someone to assist you. pepare four plastic bags for use later. With both front wheels on the ground remove any wheel covers fitted. In the center of the wheel you will see the shafts of the CV's. These are held in position with large nuts, either locked with a tab or sometimes with a locking washer and split pin. Unlock whichever system is used and loosen the nuts on the shafts. Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the vehicle and place chassis stands to support the vehicle and the lower it onto the stands. Remove the wheels and remove the center nuts from the CV joints. If the vehicle is fitted with McPherson struts, loosen the two through bolts and nuts, or if fitted with wishbone suspension loosen and remove the bolts securing the the upper ball joints. Swing the stub axle outward and downwards so that there is enough room to remove the CV shafts from from the hubs. Put on a pair of goggles and then climb under the vehicle and release the boots or retaining bolts holding the shaft into the spyder or inner CV joint. Once removed pull the half shaft out of the housings keeping everything as clean as possible and wrap in a plastic bag.. (There will be high impact grease inside both the inner and outer joints, This may have been thrown out in the event that the rubber boots are broken) If you are replacing the entire half shafts, carefully observe the way in which the inner joint is fitted. If there are no bolts, studs or nuts holding a flange onto the gear box differential housing, the inner joints will be held in place by spring loaded clips fitted around the ends of the inner shafts. If your vehicle uses that type of fitting the shafts will be levered out. It will be important to use a catchment tray to collect any transmission oil which leaks out. Cover the joint with one of the plastic bags. If you are fitting only the outer CV's, the defective units are knocked off the shafts with a heavy copper mallet (The shafts also have locking cur clips holding the shafts in place. Sometimes the inner basket of the CV bearing housing will need to be cut or broken out, so the the joint can be removed. Please both you and your friend use safety goggles during this procedure. Once removed, fit the new joint. If you are replacing the entire assembly and if they are the type using clips, use a thick piece of wood and hold the shaft as straight as possible then ask your pal to knock the shaft into the housing. The rest of the job is the opposite to removal. When fitting the outer CV shaft nut follow the correct tightening torque setting, as these usually hold the front wheel bearings at the correct settings and tightness. Regards John

Feb 14, 2012 | 2006 Chrysler Pacifica

1 Answer

In 2008 first 4th gear and later 2nd and 4th gears kept jumping out. I was told that all the bearings and other components inside the gearbox were worn out so Ihad them overhaul the gearbox. A few months...


a gear box place should know more than me but this can also be caused bye a little ball bearing and spring .... these 2 things push on the selecter shafts and fit in to a groove that holds the shaft in the right spot .. that is what u feel when u change gear and it stays in position ....... the spring - springs can looz tention .. brake or the ball can wear or the groov it sits in to can do the same making it not hold in position ... 2nd and 4th are prob on the same shaft and this problem useully happens under load or taking off quick ........ i think they call them retainer springs and ball

Jun 07, 2011 | Toyota Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Lescha Hobby 125 S electric mixer requires new drum main bearing


I had a similar problem on a Lescha Hobby Mix 120 SF. (Sounds similar to yours) The failure seems to have been caused by corrosion of the ball bearings. If you get water into the rear bearing housing when it is operating, and then store the mixer with the opening in the drum downwards, the water collects around one of the bearings. The bearings are a standard size ball bearing with a 62mm outside dia, 30mm bore and 16mm wide. I bought the sealed version from a local bearing supplier (or look one up on the Internet). The original ones fitted are unsealed, which is part of the problem. I also bought two new bearing retaining external circlips for a 30mm shaft. I had a paint round inside the housing with hammerite, and drilled some 10mm dia drain holes around the outside of the housing near the bolting flange. I also store the mixer with the drum horizontal now.

May 27, 2011 | Gazillion Cement Mixer

1 Answer

How to change wheel bearings on jaguar xj6 front 1996


Disconnect the vehicle battery ground lead.
Support the vehicle at the front and remove the appropriate wheel.
Remove brake caliper and disc assemblies see SRO 70 10
Note- Do not allow the caliper to hang by either harness or
flexible hose.

Pry off the hub grease cap
Remove and discard cotter pin
pull off castellated nut retainer
Remove the hub nut and bearing washer.
Carefully remove the hub assembly from the stub axle.

Pry the original seal from the spigot and discard.
remove the bearings and using a drift punch knock out the bearing cups.
Remove all traces of grease and dirt from the stub axle and back plate.
Note: the backing plate may be used to pull the inner bearing and seal if they stay on the stub shaft.
Press in the new bearing cups using a socket or other tool of the correct size to prevent damaging the new bearing cup or hub.
Note: Do not use bearing to press in the cup.
Pack the annular gaps of the oil seal lips with grease.
Wash the hub assembly thoroughly.
Ensure that the hub inner seal diameter is free of debris or damage and is lightly lubricated prior to assembly.
Only replace complete bearings, never cup or race in isolation.
Pack each race with approximately 4 ml of grease and position the inner race onto the stub axle.
Apply a smear of grease to hub inner surfaces and bearing cups. Assemble the hub to the stub axle followed by outer race, bearing washer and hub nut.
It is not necessary to fill the hub cavity with grease, merely protect from corrosion with a coat of lubricant. Seat the bearings by slightly tightening the hub nut whilst rotating the hub. Do not apply load without rotation.

Adjust End float. Set a Dial Test Indicator and adjust the hub nut to achieve the correct end float.
.001-.003"
As the adjustment is made, continually load the hub axially in both directions.
Without disturbing the end float setting, fit the castellated
nut retainer so that it aligns with both hub nut and stub axle drilling.
Secure nut retainer using a new cotter pin.

Reassemble brake rotor and caliper. Bolts MUST be tightened to specification
operation of the braking system verified.
Reassemble wheel

Dec 25, 2010 | 1996 Jaguar Xj Series

1 Answer

How to remove front rotor


remove front wheel, undo the retaining bolts from the brake caliper and remove it, do not undo the fluid line that runs to the caliper or you will have to bleed the brakes, just tie the caliper up under the guard somewhere
remove the metal cap from the middle of the rotor, remove the retaining pin from the nut and remove the wheel bearing from the stub axle, the rotor should now be free to remove from the car.
fit the new rotor, grease the bearings if required and tighten to remove any slop in the rotor, once that is done you can put the retaining pin back in place.
You may have to press the caliper piston in to get enough clearance to fit the brake pads over the new rotor, this can be done with a "G" clamp, just remove the outer pad, place a small piece of wood over the face of the inner pad where the "G" clamp is going to sit to protect the pad and wind the clamp to compress the piston, replace the outer pad and fit back into the caliper before you put the caliper over the rotor and bolt it on
hope this helps

Jul 08, 2010 | 1998 Jaguar XJ8L

1 Answer

My car vibrates the steering system is in good condition, has a proper alignment, proper balancing, changed two engine support and perform a repair in the stump of the left front wheel


Hi I am Vortash the main things that cause wheel Vibration are
1/ wheel balancing ( thrown weights mostly )
2/ wheel bearings
3/ susppension arms
4/ ball joints
5/ track rod ends worn
6/ steering shims loose
7/ damaged cv joints or drive shafts (transverse engines )
8/ Prop shaft missalignment (rear wheel drives )
9/ and this is the most popular one tyres not fitted correctly (twisted )
10/ unlikely but more common than you might think Buckled wheels pot hole at 40mph do a lot of damage ..
hope this gives you some ideas and good luck with finding a solution regards Vortash

Jul 13, 2009 | 1998 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

BMX ball barings


put a thin layer of grease in the bearing race/concave part where they go. If they have a retainer pop each ball back into the retainer, test fit all before grease goes in. Make sure that it all fits smoothly, and snug not too tight. If the balls themself are out of the retainer they will pop back in fairly easy and the retainer can also be bent back into place to keep the ball bearings in place.

Feb 21, 2009 | kawasaki Full Suspension Mountain Bike Men

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