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After you confirm that the audio signal is reaching the subwoofer, then either the amplifier or the woofer itself is defective. U can establish continuity across the leads of the SW - if ok, then check to make sure that the surround of the cone is intact. If sw passes the inspection(s) the the anomaly lies with the amp.
Look at the connection of the sub woofer. The orange light indicates either there is some problem with the wire or the connector at the end of the wire.
Also make sure the pin or hole where you insert the sub woofer is working perfectly. You can simply check it by placing another sub woofer at that vary spot and see if it is working fine. If the hole is fine then the problem is either with your cord or your wire pin.
black and red will goto 1 speaker. and blue/yellow to the other. typically red and yellow are + and black and blue are -. the crossover board might tell you which is which where they solder to it. but i'm pretty sure the black/red goto woofer. try hooking up both to woofer and listen to it. 1 way is going to sound horribly wrong lol. that will mean you hooked up the tweeter leads to the woofer. but DO NOT HOOK UP WOOFER LEADS TO TWEETER. thats why i say to do it on woofer.
are you running separate amps for the woofer and speakers??? sounds like you have the woofer amp being turned on be the amp remote wire (blue/white) and the speaker amp turned on with the power antenna remote wire (blue). if this is the case you need to use the blue/white to turn both amps on.
Most likely, if the LED is still functioning on the speaker, then an internal connection has simply come loose. If you use a screwdriver to remove the woofer (the large speaker) you will gain access to the inside. You should be able to both easily see the loose connection and reach it to plug it back in.
A little less likely, but also possible is that a part of the internal circuitry is broken. But, usually in those cases, the light stops working as well.