Question about Sub-Zero 650 / O Bottom Freezer Refrigerator
How do I do this? Do I need to remove the door, or can I leave it on? I would think I need to remove it first.
In my opinion this the easiest sub zero door gasket to install.The main reason for this is because of the way its packaged in the box from the factory.Not being twisted up makes it way easier then any of the others. And yes the first thing to do is remove the food and then pull the drawer out. Then loosen all the the quarter inch screws holding the metal strip that keeps the gasket in place but don't remove them just loosen. Once those are lose remove the old gasket. You should also remove the screws on the end of each metal strip. This helps when re-installing the new gasket. Now put freezer door face down with both rails sticking straight in the air and you can drop the gasket over the rails. The gasket has a small round bead that tucks in behind the metal strip. As you tuck this behind the strip work your way around the door snug in the screws be sure not to tighten them to much.Once in place take a hair dryer and warm any places that look wrinkled or need straightening. Finally tighten all screws including the eight corner screws now re-install freezer door and your finish.
Posted on Jun 24, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: sub-zero 650 / bottom freezer
Clean fluff from condensor, turn off overnight and defrost, turn back on following day should start to work ok within 24hrs. Regards Advisor
Posted on Aug 23, 2007
SOURCE: leaking sub zero 650
I fixed my leaking problem by pulling out the vegetable drawer and checking the condensation drain hose. Sure enough, it was clogged and the condensation had nowhere to go but move out toward the front of the fridge, down the left side and onto the floor. Once that drain hose was cleared (with a bendable straw), no more leak!
Posted on May 08, 2008
There are different handles depending on serial number. The older of the two is at the top of the door. The screws are covered with a magnetic trim piece. You can remove this by putting tape on the chrome and pull up. You can then tighten the nuber two phillips head screws. The newer model is on the door itself. These are held on with small set screws accessed from the bottom of the handle. You may get by just tightening the set screws. If not you need to remove the handle by removing the set screws. You can then tighten the standoff and reatach the handle. For the 632 same procedure except it will be on the side.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
It went into self protection mode. Just leave it closed and when the compressor cools down enough, it will start. Once the ref starts to cool, the lights and such will come back on.
All of this assumes that no failure was caused by the long run times when the door was open
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
You have a pluggeed drain line. You have to turn off your freezer for a day and leave the door open to dry this out before you work on this problem Unscrew the light bulbs so they don't stay on. To repair this you have to remove the evaporator cover to get at the drain tube. The evaporator cover is held to the freezer ceiling by several screws. Usually two covers come off. Make note of which screws go where, as some models use different size screws. The right side of the evaporator cover is usually silicone sealed and you will need to cut this with a razor knife if it doesn't peal off. Once the cover is off you will see a drain hole on the upper right hand side wall of the freezer. Their are several ways to clear this out, I use a pump up garden sprayer to shoot pressurized hot water through this line from the top and from the bottom of the drain line. To get to the bottom you need to remove the bottom kick panel(two screws) and remove the condensate pan. Note how the pan sits and how it is hooked in the front. You can then see the tube coming from the freezer and you can shoot water through this tube with your sprayer. I sometimes use a smaller plastic tube or a semi fexible wire to run through this line to clear it out. Don't use a hard wire as you don't want to poke a hole through this plastic drain line. Once you have this cleared out you need to clean off all the silicone sealant off of the cover and the side wall. Once everything is clean and dry you must reassemble the evaporator cover and silicone seal it around the drain line. I usually put some sealant on the cover around the drain and some more on the wall before I put the cover on, and then touch it up once it is reassembled. Be careful that you don't get sealant into the drain tube. Let the sealant cure for a day and turn ;your freezer back on. In rare instances the insulation around the drain line in the wall has gotten water in it and has frozen. This destroys the insulation and the drain line will keep freezing up. If your freezer keeps leaking water you will have to buy a drain line heater that Sub-Zero has come out with as an after market repair part. It has very good instructions in how to install this heater into the line to keep it from freezing. Good Luck Appliance Specialists
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
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