Question about Samsung WA456DRHDWR 4.5 cu. ft. High-Efficiency

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I have a Samsung WA456DRHDWR. The drain pump went bad. I wasn't around so I don't know what happen but when I found it the pump had busted out of its' plastic mounting bracket and the 2 wires were dis

My wife found water leaking from the bottom of the washing machine. She shut everything down. I found the drain pump had busted out of its plastic housing and the hoses and wires had become disconnected. I replaced the pump assembly. I then leveled the machine and put water in the tub. I put the machine on spin only and the pump worked fine. The problem is the pump won't quit running. Even if I unplug the machine and then plug it back in the pump will start running as soon as the machine is plugged in and before the power button is pushed. Any ideas?

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2 possible problems:
1. there is a tiny switch in the lower metal base of the machine hit it it might be stuck.
2. you have a problem with an electronic component in the main pcb called triac. this part is acting as a switch you need an electronic repairer to change it

Posted on Mar 24, 2014


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SOURCE: water will not pump out

Before you replace the pump; check to make sure there is no debris in the pump or hoses. I just pulled a baby sock from inside the impeller part of my pump.
–It was an easy repair. Just unplug your machine. Remove the back access plate (2 screws). Disconnect the hoses (be sure to have towels handy – you may have up to 12 gallons of water drain out –I had about 2 gallons). With a flashlight inspect the impeller, if there is debris -it is most likely your culprit.

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SOURCE: washing machine quit working wont

ND is for a "No Drain" error Watch the video below to show you how to clear the filter.

Posted on Jan 10, 2011

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The worst case would be a failing fuel pump (they tend to be pricey, and are a pain to change).

Another possibility is contamination in the fuel tank such as dirt, rust flakes or solid products of fuel degradation - this would clog up the new fuel filter very quickly. It wouldn't be good for the fuel pump either. Check the tank for signs of corrosion, especially around the filler tube. A quick test of the filter is to disconnect the outlet side first - if you get just a dribble of fuel out of there, then a good stream of gas from the inlet side, that is an indication of a clogged filter and therefore a tank problem. You could try to siphon or pump a sample of fuel from the bottom of the tank through the filler tube for inspection.

A third possibility is a sensor or computer problem. It seems unlikely a single-point failure would take out all of the injectors unless it's the injector power common. Maybe the engine computer uses a single buffer chip to drive the fuel injector transistors, or there's a bad power bypass capacitor for the injector power. Engines don't usually stall on sensor failures - they keep running, but often with degraded performance, and you'll get a check engine code. Check for voltage on the fuel pump relay before changing it - when the engine is on, there should be 12 V on the coil, and 0 Volts on the contacts. If you get voltage across the normally open (NO) contacts when the coil is energized, the relay contacts are bad. (The tricky part is getting at the relay socket terminals with the relay in place.)

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