Question about Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

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I have a kenmore washer model 110.47532602 that won't start

I have already replaced the door latch mechanism because when the diagnostic test is run The door latches and the clean washer light comes on. I have checked the connectors on the ccu and all seem tight. What is the next step?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Jahn27
  • 1554 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore HE2

Let's focus first on error codes F22 and F26. Error code F22 is door lock fault and it flashes when the door lock fails to activate after 6 attempts while F26 flashes when the door switch is opened for more than 5 seconds while the door is locked or when the door is not opened after 3 consecutive cycles. Since you cannot do 3 consecutive cycles without opening the door, this may indicate that the door switch contacts are welded together. But both error codes may also indicate a malfunctioning CCU or any other component such as the motor controller unit (MCU).

Disconnect power then start troubleshooting the machine by disconnecting the MCU wire harnesses (MI3 and MS2) from the CCU then reconnect power and start the machine. If error codes F22 and F26 go away, then the MCU must be the culprit, replace it. If the error codes do not go away, disconnect power then test the continuity of the terminals of door switch harness DS2 both with the door open and close. It must have continuity, if the door lock and switch assembly is good, when the door is close and none when the door is open. Also test the continuity between the terminals of connector DS2 on the CCU and it should read open.

Proceed with the troubleshooting of the door lock switch and solenoids if the door switch contact is open when the door is open and close when the door is close. Disconnect power then disconnect the door lock switch harness from connector DLS2 on the CCU. Jump a wire between the terminals of DLS2 on the CCU then close the door firmly. Reconnect power then start the machine.

Post back the result of the tests and your observations about the behavior of the machine as you do the tests. It will help determine which part is causing the problem.

Please make sure you accept the solution which you found the most helpful and informative. Failure to do so will automatically give credit to the last solution viewed no matter how unhelpful and non-informative it is. Accepting a solution will not prevent you from communicating with the expert at no further cost. You can still post clarifications and follow-up questions as long as you need further assistance regarding the problem stated herein.

Posted on Nov 03, 2010

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Jahn27
  • 1554 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore HE2 stopped mid-cycle. When

This appears to be a problem with the MCU and not the CCU as what has already been found. First, make sure the serial communication connection between the MCU and the CCU is intact, clean, and snug fit. But it seems that you have done all that. The one and simple way to determine whether it is the MCU or CCU is disconnecting the serial communication connection between the two then starting the machine or running the diagnostic test.

The problem is indeed the MCU if the machine seems to work fine with the MCU disconnected except for motor powered functions or the diagnostic test progresses successfully but eventually flashes F28 code (or any other code pertaining to a motor or MCU problem) after the dispenser motor, dispenser contact, hot water inlet valve, and pressure switch test or when the test enters the MCU and motor tests. Replace the MCU then. The problem is the CCU or both if the machine still behaves the same after the MCU is disconnected. Replace the CCU then the MCU if the machine behaves the same after the CCU is replaced. This troubleshooting technique has worked for me all the times the symptoms are like yours and it turned out to be the MCU.

You don't have to accept or reject this post in order to add comment or information. But accepting the solution should you find it helpful and/or informative will not stop you from posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.

Posted on Aug 13, 2011

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1 Answer

Replaced CCU, Sears washer still will not run


Suggestion: Unplug washer from mains. Open up the machine, disconnect and refit all connectors with wires one by one. Could be some loose connection somewhere. Also helps in the long run

Click if helped.

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Kenmore HE Washer Model 11046472501 - add a garment light stays on with the door lock light on at the same time. We have unplugged the machine and ran the drain and spin mode, but he washer won't


Not sure if these will help or not:

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Kenmore+HE+Washer+diagnostics&oq=Kenmore+HE+Washer+diagnostics&gs_l=youtube.12...4054.11443.0.13769.12.12.0.0.0.0.236.2449.1j0j11.12.0...0.0...1ac.1.93rgz26enSw

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Kenmore Elite Model 110.42926 202 after setting the desired cycle will not start when you push the start button


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Incoming Power Problem If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.

Power Cord If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.
User Control and Display Board If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.



Timer If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.



Line Fuse If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.



Thermal Fuse If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.



Line Fuse and Holder If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.

Main Control Board If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.



Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.



Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
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Oct 05, 2012 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I has a Crosley Washing Machine Top Loader. Fill light comes on lid locks then NOthing!


seethis causes and fix it. God bless you
User Control and Display Board If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.
Timer If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this time
Line Fuse If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.
Thermal Fuse If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.
Line Fuse and Holder If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.
Main Control Board If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Incoming Power Problem If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the hom
Power Cord If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.

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1 Answer

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see this causes and fix it. God bless you
User Control and Display Board If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.

Timer If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.

Line Fuse If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.
Thermal Fuse If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.

Line Fuse and Holder If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.

Main Control Board If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Incoming Power Problem If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.

Power Cord If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.

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Sep 28, 2012 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

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see this causes and fix it. God bless you
If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.
If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.
If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.
If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.
If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.
If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.
If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.
If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.
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Sep 27, 2012 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore front load washer door won't latch lock light on


On some Kenmore front load models, if the black gasket around the door opening is unseated (for example, because you drag some heavy wet laundry over it) the door will not engage the lock and stay closed. This is a feature to prevent the washer from leaking when the gasket is not sealed. To fix it, simply reseat the gasket and the door will close and lock.

Jun 21, 2012 | Kenmore 44102 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

The washer goes for about 2 min. and the reg f 11 and dl i know the dl is for the door lock but how do you fix the door lock and why is this f 11 thing going on


Fdl is a door latch error code. F11 is a serial communications error that is associated with either the door latch, central control unit (main computer) or associated wiring. Since you can hear a "click", and the washer works intermittently I would suspect you have a bad door latch assembly. Just to be sure you will need to check all your wiring connections going to the central control unit and door latch. To access follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the three 7mm screws holding the top panel on. They are located along the top edge in the back of the washer. Once the screws are removed the top panel will slide back then lift up.
3. The Central Control Unit (CCU) is located in the central rear of the washer. You can't miss it. Make sure all the connections are plugged in snugly. The door latch connections are located behind the front panel on the right hand side. Check ONE connection at a time.

After checking wiring harness, run systems diagnostics test by performing the following:

Select DRAIN/SPIN, NO/SPIN, followed by pushing any button under OPTIONS 4 times. If entered correctly the display will read "C00" and you should hear the door latch "click". The diagnostics will run through a series of tests to include FILL, AGITATE, DRAIN and SPIN functions. Since the door latch is the first step of the diagnostic sequence, the tests will not progress if the door latch fails. You can push PAUSE/CANCEL any time to end diagnostics. Run this test several times. If anything fails you will get an "F" code in the display window. If the tests all pass, the unit will shut off, followed by an audible "beep" and the CLEAN light indicator will be lit. If you get successful results, then you know you probably had a loose wire somewhere. If the test fails, I would attempt to replace the door latch before the CCU. The latch costs considerably less. The CCU can cost as much as $220 depending on where you get it.

If you decide to replace the door latch follow these steps:

1. Make sure washer is unplugged.
2. Locate the wire hoop retaining ring that holds the rubber door boot on. It will be located behind the front edge of the rubber where it meets the door frame.
3. Locate the tension spring at the 6 o'clock position and stretch the spring apart to release the hoop. Pull the hoop from the bottom first and remove from the door boot.
4. Pull door boot from door opening and fold back inside wash tub so you can access behind the front panel of the washer.
5. Remove the three torx screws that hold the door latch on.
6. The door latch is seated in a plastic retainer bracket. Reach in behind front panel and carefully remove the door latch from this bracket so you can access the wire connectors.
7. Remove wire connectors.
8. Re-install wire connectors and latch in reverse order of how it was removed.
9. Re-install door boot, ensuring it seated properly all the way around the door frame opening.
10. Re-insert wire retaining hoop in the groove behind the front lip of the rubber door boot starting at the 12 o'clock position and working your way around to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (You may need a second set of hands for this part). While holding downward tension on the hoop to keep it seated, stretch the spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop back into place at the bottom of the door opening.

Run system diagnostics again to see if the latch functions properly and all tests pass. Good luck to you and I hope this helps you.

May 06, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore front load washer door


A lot of these errors on these front loaders can be resolved by simply unplugging the washer for 30 minutes to reset the computer. You may also attempt to manipulate the door latch by using the manual release lever to see if you can get the latching mechanism to stay open. The following link explains how to do this:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r622155-kenmore_elite_whirlpool_duet_door_jammed

This is normally used when the door is latched with the door shut, but it still may apply in your case. If you attempt any of these preliminary checks and the latch still does not work properly, I would recommend replacing it. The next link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r587965-door_latch_replacement_fdl_error

Hopefully you will not require any replacement parts. But, if you do, a replacement latch can be found at searspartsdirect.com or repairclinic.com. Just type in your complete model number to perform a search for parts. I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Sep 01, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer won't start


First of all, does the washer make a distinctive "click" when you push the START button? This is an indication that your door latch is locking (or at least making an attempt to lock). Normally, however, the display would have an "fdl" fault code indicating a door lock failure if it were bad. I have seen the latch go bad and not register a fault code, though. You can perform this simple diagnostic test to see if any fault codes register: 1. Select DRAIN/SPIN 2. Under SPIN SPEED select NO SPIN 3. Then, under OPTIONS push the PREWASH button 4 times. You should hear the door latch click then "C00" will show on the display. The washer will begin a series of tests (C01...C05 - depending on options and model) by testing the hot and cold fill valves, the various dispenser compartments, followed by tumble, drain and spin. If there is something wrong the diagnostic test will abort and a fault code will be displayed. The washer usually beeps when it displays a fault code. If you attempt to perform the diagnostic and the display momentarily flashes after you press the PREWASH button the fourth time and goes out, this can also be a symptom of bad door latch. You need to perform these simple steps first in order to further diagnose. Let me know what you come up with.

Jun 02, 2007 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer

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