Question about Office Equipment & Supplies

# How do you prove coshx is an even function

Coshx must be prove to be an even function

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The hyperbolic cosine is defined as (e^x+e^(-x))/2. This makes the cosh of -x as (e^(-x)+e^x)/2, which is the same thing except for the order of the two terms in the sum. Thus cosh(x) is equal to cosh(-x), and thus cosh is an even function.

Posted on Mar 24, 2014

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Is the charger (and outlet) OK? If you may attempt to use USB current from your PC/Laptop/etc., is that port workable and powered? Have you attempted an alternate method of charging? Is syncing then possible?

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### X=ln(seca+tana) find coshx

Sorry I do not like to work with secant and cosecant.
sec(a)+tan(a)=(1+sin(a))/cos(a)
ln(sec(a)+tan(a))= ln( (1+sin(a))/cos(a))=X
2*cosh(X)= e^(X)+e^(-X)
e^(X)=(1+sin(a))/cos(a)
e^(-X)= cos(a)/(1+sin(a))
2cosh(X)=(1+sin(a))/cos(a) +cos(a)/(1+sin(a))= 2/cos(a)
cosh(X)=1/cos(a)=sec(a)

Now that you see how you can do it, I trust you will discover any mistake I might have made.
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This question needs to be reclassified with aftermarket programmable home thermostats--not fans.

Hunter 44134

Getting the wiring connections correct to the terminals in the back plate is essential. Understanding better which colored wires do what functions for your particular brand and model of HVAC gear proves essential, too: "That's the rub!"

Unlike the brilliant and wisely-instituted electrical code, a sensible common "code" for HVAC thermostat wires doesn't exist--each brand, and many models represented by such brands--may have their own peculiar wiring color conventions. HVAC techs also have noted the increasing numbers of brands and models in the market these days, as well--thus, they too may resort to online help threads concerning such issues. (Certainly, the wiring conventions for heat pumps differs also from that of a conventional heat/air setup.)

Unfortunately, many of Youtube's demonstrations from HVAC pros prove merely general info concerning HVAC systems--these may prove somewhat useful: Being merely general info, they're often not specific enough always for particular units, though. (This proves keenly true concerning thermostat wiring.)

Always switch off the circuit breaker for your HVAC system before proceeding with wiring. My system is a Goodman heat pump--it uses a five-wire thermostat setup: The 44134 model from Hunter doesn't feature a terminal in the back plate for the "C" wire for that. (The blue wire from my Goodman heat pump is the "Comm" or "C" wire--that's very confusing in it's own way--the "B" terminal on the back plate for the 44134, and most other programmable thermostats, often is used with B-coded wires for other manufacturers' HVAC units--generally, "B" wires for such units are blue, as well--beware of reliance upon wiring colors!)

Hunter's FAQs clearly indicate that the "C" wire connection isn't always necessary, nor appropriate, for their thermostats--their 44134 is one isn't an exception. I twisted on a small, gray wirenut onto end of my blue Comm wire, further securing that better with electrical tape. (Simply wrapping the Comm wire well with electrical tape should prove also sufficient.)

Unless you know your system's peculiar wiring very well (that is, you're likely an HVAC tech), don't try to connect a Comm wire to another terminal on the back plate for the 44134--you'll likely ruin your thermostat (perhaps along with some other HVAC electronics): You may need then to get an HVAC tech out, after all!

As indicated above, don't merely "match" wiring colors (as a woman might for interior decorating or remodeling)!: This proves a continuing and overly common, comical mistake! Prove instead somewhat skeptical of thermostat wiring colors! A Biblical scripture applies: "Be as wise as serpents!" Take your time to get wiring connections right!

I've noted that the 44134 unit relies totally upon 2 AA batteries (not supplied in the package)--those must be in good working order and oriented correctly--otherwise, your thermostat and HVAC system won't function. Furthermore, the control unit may be easily removed from the back plate--thus allowing "easy-chair" configuration--again, HVAC and fan functions will halt immediately--the connected unit proves necessary for continued function.

Hunter also points out (on their packaging as well) that the 44134 (and, many other (if not all) Hunter thermostats) won't work with baseboard heating systems. Hunter's site FAQs prove too sparse--some may prove keenly useful, nonetheless.

I can't yet get my heat pump system to work with Hunter's "always on" fan switch setting--the rightmost "Auto/On" setting for that bottom-mounted switch at the right. Perhaps a jumper wire proves necessary in the back plate terminals--somewhere. (I've noted this also for Hunter's common 44277 model, as well.) I glean perhaps that somehow invoking the "G" terminal proves necessary. As usual, investigation proves warranted.

Definitely note the "Cool, Off, Heat" switch on the bottom left of the unit: Yeah, that's all too easy to forget. The Hunter 44134 doesn't provide any feature allowing automatic switching between heating and cooling--one must choose which function for the thermostat to control. If the switch is set to "Heat," cooling isn't possible--and, vice-versa.

For reference and troubleshooting, keep the manual and install instructions in a safe, memorable, and easily accessible place. Hunter does provide PDF manual versions online--installation instructions prove lacking online though--they're not in the user manual, either. Unfortunately, Hunter doesn't upgrade it's PDF manual versions.

I glean that Honeywell units may prove generally more easily configurable than Hunter units. Nonetheless, configuring Hunter units proves far from impossible, though. Configuring Hunter thermostats prove perhaps not as "intuitive.": The formal user manuals provided by Hunter thus may prove more keenly necessary for their thermostats' configuration.

Getting personal help online from Hunter may prove somewhat difficult (that may have changed recently). A few years ago, I called customer support: A woman answered my wiring question very satisfactorily. (I noted a jumper wire connect to the terminals of my old manual thermostat--she indicated that the jumper proves unnecessary in Hunter units.) Hunter phone support hours prove somewhat limited--they're similar to traditional office hours.

As with most programmable thermostats, the Hunter is a PRC (Chinese)-fabricated general-purpose consumer circuitry device. As such, it's (overly) intended to be wired and configured by the user to provide correct function for many particular and compatible HVAC brands/models. Given the particular installation that may perhaps prove difficult. Given the general-purpose nature of such thermostats, a simple installation sheet of instructions can't always offer sufficient and correct answers.

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"Proust" thanks you for getting this far!: Perhaps some of my particular solutions here do prove useful to some of you--more nit-picking, detailed work and anecdotes (intended for specific brands and models) needs to be offered in this area....

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