Question about Dryers
It is WindChaser model WHOF20 oil filled radiator
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: honeywell oil radiator
Press the *power button* once to start the heater on high power, continuous run. If left at this setting, the unit will run continuously on high power (1500 watts, 12.5 amps) and will not shut off until the unit is manually turned off.
Press the *power button* again, to change to low power, continuous run, (900 watts, 7.5 amps) and will not shut off until the unit is manually turned off.
Press the temp/timer button until the temperature icon blinks. Use the up and down arrows to set the desired temperature.
The temperature icon will stop blinking and the current room temperature will reappear after the desired temperature is set.
The heater will turn off and on to achieve the desired temperature.
Set timer: (auto off)
Press the timer/timer button until the timer icon blinks. The hour display will appear. The auto off icon will also appear.
Use the up and down arrow buttons to set the heater operation time between 1 and 10 hours. This function will activate once the timer icon stops blinking. The heater will automatically turn off whn the times runs out.
Set timer: (auto on)
Press the temp/timer button until the timer icon blinks. The hour display will appear. The auto on icon will also appear.
Use the up and down arrow buttons to set the heater start time between 1 and 10 hours. This function will activate once the timer icon stops blinking.
The heater will automatically turn on when time expires.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Nov 16, 2007
Here is your problem and yes it can be fixed.
More than likely your thermal cutoff tripped because your heater got too hot.
1. Unplug unit.
2. remove front support feet and screw underneath face plate will slide off.
3. You will see the heating element, a white wire is coming out of it. There is a white sleeve on the wire tucked up into the element. Pull the wire out and slide sleeve off to expose the thermal switch labeled (S.W.C. sw-120t ect.) You can google it to learn more about the cutoff. If you know how you can test the cutoff with a ammeter or voltmeter, If you don't google how to test electrical systems. Remember "first do no harm"
a. If you can replace the cutoff do so (this is the recommended way)
b. If you don't want to replace it cut the cutoff out and solder the wires back together. (be warned that this will bypass the safety system) If you do this be careful to not leave your radiator unattended.
5. After soldering the wire, taping it will electrical tape. Replace face plate from step 1 and 2 and your heater will work.
P.s. If your heater is still under warranty just contact lakewood.
Posted on Feb 20, 2008
My EW6708K stopped working after a power outage (was not on at the time, just plugged in). I couldn't find any info online. So I used my last option: I took it apart. Two screws on the bottom opens the unit's electronics. Two more screws inside to get tol the circuit board. I was looking for a reset button. There was a tiny white “thing” on the circuit board. I pressed it and reassembled the unit. That did the trick! Simple. Just be neat and put everything back the way it was.
Posted on Jan 25, 2010
We have these heaters and haven't had a fuse fail yet. I think it's because after the first time I got that crackling sound after moving it while it was on, I stopped doing that, and only move it with the power off, and wait two minutes before restarting it, so the oil can resettle.
However, the thermostats are now failing. Anyone know if this part is available?
Posted on May 14, 2010
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