- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The last knob on the right should give 16 different effects, are you saying the knob doesn't work at all? Is it turning smoothly? Do you hear any clicks as you turn it? Is anything plugged into the dsp socket on the back where the footswitch would go?
Are you old enough to remember when amps were all linear? Well, this is a computer. I haven't seen the schematic, but I'd guess the knobs are not connected to pots, but rotary encoders which send signals to a processor board to change settings. So, it's either a bug or a "feature" that causes these settings to start at zero when you boot the machine. You may be able to store all the last settings in memory so they start there.
The only change you need to make for the 120 operation should be to change the fuse to a 2 amp fuse. Faint static is typical of the electronic noise of amps... as long as it it is faint. The power supply will act differently on 120 than 240... probably takes a brief more time to get the system stable, hence the initial buzzing. As long as it performs don't worry about it.
There are several reasons why this could be happening, assuming it's Windows, not MAC.
-Check to make sure the OUT port isn't set. You only need IN for basic controller use.
- Make sure the channel your using is armed (button below Solo & Mute should be red) [this is the most likely problem]
Another problem is the USB power settings in Windows. The default is set to allow the Computer to monitor and turn off USB ports automatically to save power. But it doesn't turn them back on automatically. You'll want change these settings regardless to help reduce latency issues.
-Go to Device Manager> USB Controllers> double click & change power settings to OFF for all Root Hubs.
Here is a guide to help optimize Windows to lessen Latency, Dropouts and Clicks /Pops. It's for Studio One, but the settings are the same for Windows.
You might want to give Studio One a try. I've used everything and by far Studio One is the easiest with the least issues. The free version is better than most DAWS paid versions. It can definitely help eliminate a lot of the everyday headaches that come with using Abelton, Cubase, Protools and even FruityLoops (which is pretty gay anyway).
M-Audio is also notorious for USB hardware related issues. A lot of times I find it turns out to be a bad connection between the plug and keyboard port, which tends to wear after awhile. It can go unnoticed because it still fits tight enough to get power, but not enough to keep the board fully functional.
UNPLUG THE AMP First you need to check any visible fuses either in the plug or on the back of the amp.
If you have an electrical testing screwdriver or meter you can test the fuse. If this sounds like gobbledegook (daft talk) then stop and take it to the dealer where you bought it.
If you can remove the fuse or fuses then replace them if it is obvious they have blown - dark and kinda burnt looking.
If replacing the fuses doesn't fix it - STOP.
Valve amps are serious bits of electrical hardware - they are not for home repairs - take it to a GOOD dealer / repair shop that deals with valve amp - nowhere else should play with it.
When they have it sorted you can have the valves re-biased/changed to adjust the amp for the sound you want - yes the valves can change it.
Hope this helps - don't mess with it - even when turned OFF valve amps can give you a shock!!
Keep on Rockin'
Try plugging in a set of head phones , if you get sound that way the input jack may be causeing the prob. try pulling it back an forth a few times, sometimes this will free up the head phone jack. I hope its that simple . May be some one will have another idea Good luck DFD please rate me TK U
the buzzing is indicative of an open ground connection, check the cord by substitution or with an ohm meter, if the cord is good look at the connections to the jack inside the amp ( im guessing you built the amp from a kit). Is this a solid state amplifier? Tube amps have lethal votages and should not be experimented on without knowledge of electronic safety. Also if there is more than one input to the amp try plugging the guitar into another one and see if its still the same.
You may have a switch with 2 settings somewhere on your amp - one for active and one for passive. try changing that.
If this doesn't work, make sure you got the guitar in the line input, change the lead for another incase it's faulty, turn the volume up on the guitar to activate the pickups, and rock-out when you find the problem and fix it.