a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
On my dishwasher, this arm attaches with a huge gray plastic screw. If it comes loose, you'll usually find the spray arm sitting in the bottom rack, but the screw falls down to the bottom of the tub.
The spray arm has a hole that goes all the way through its center. One of these holes is larger than the other, so the arm will only attach in one direction. Most of the spray holes on the arm face "up" when installed.
Slide out the upper rack, position the spray arm on its pivot, then insert the screw and turn clockwise to tighten it. The arm should spin freely.
If this arm isn't attached, none of the dishes will wash well (due to a loss of water pressure).
Just had the same problem, and fixed it. Spray arms turn with proper water pressure in the pipes. 3 reasons can lower the water pressure. 1-pump motor losing power (wasn't my case) 2- cracked pipe (wasn't my case either, pipes, although plastics, seem to be very solid) and 3- debris in the pipes/filters. (It was my case) At first, it looks difficult to reach de filters, but it isn't.
1- Remove both baskets, the top one by removing the front plastic cap on the rails.
2- Remove the "+" bottom spray arm, by unscrewing counterclockwise (if I remember well...) the plastic screw dead center of it (use your fingers.)
3- Remove the three screws you see, but don't try to remove the filter part right away because there is a 4th screw under the leading water pipe, the one leading water to the top spray arms.
4-To remove the 4th screw, you must remove the plastic pipe that connect with the top spray arms. Easy. It's beeing held there by two clips, one on the back wall and one on the top wall. Just spread them with your fingers (or screwdriver) and turn the pipe toward the right side, to free the bottom part of the pipe from the middle/bottom spray arm holder, you'll have to bent it a little so it passes over the heating element.
5- Remove the last screw. Now there's nothing holding the bottom part anymore. just remove by moving it back and forth left and right (to loose it up), be carefull not to lose the clear plastic washers on the main shaft when removing. Now if your dishwasher is like mine (should be) you should see a lot of debris that couldn't reach the chopping device. In fact, the water couldn't flow properly because of all the debris stocked there by the bottom drain filter. Patio screws (?) small chicken bones, etc...
6- If you can find something to pump the water resting at bottom there, (I used a Prestone coolant tester!) you'd have a better view, and could remove the single screw holding the chopping device cap in place. That's the last step. Notice that the chopping device cap, even after the screw is removed, still look like firmly attached, like "glued", but there's absolutely nothing else holding the cap. Just shake it with your hand and it will eventually come off. Now you remove all the dirt/debris you see there, and then follow thw step back the rebuild the washing machine. On my part, it brought it back like if it was brand new..., but, now I'm being a little more carefull about the stuff I'm putting in there...
I hope it can help, English is not my first language.
Its so annoying to find Roomba after he's finished cleanin only to see that once again he's lost his brush. How to keep your Roomba from losing his brush- items needed: quick steel putty (local hardware store), crazy glue, original screw (or similar), toothpick, and screwdriver. It seems to be that Roomba loses his brush because the threading in the plastic insert the screw goes attached to gets worn-out, so even when you put the screw back in it'll eventually fall out while he's working. Begin by cutting off a very tiny piece of the putty (follow instructions on package) and stick that into the screw hole. Now that it's filled up, use the toothpick to create a hole inside the plastic screw hole where the screw normally fits. You go will windup taking most of the filler material out as the final fix winds up using very little putty. Let the putty dry per the manufacturer instructions. Once it is dry use the screw to create the new threading in the steel putty. Do this by screwing the screw into the insert slowly backing it in and backing it out a little at a time. Try not to wobble the screw as you do this. Once you get a good fit take the screw back out, now it's time to put the brush back in. Put in a couple of drops of crazy glue in the hole and put the brush and screw back in. Let it dry for at least overnight just to be sure. And that's it! If you're not very hands-on it might be better to let somebody else do it for you, you don't want to get the steel putty or crazy glue into any of the moving parts and then ruin the assembly.
Re: 3500 giving 59.99 error *SOLVED!* by alkemyst (4/10/08 8:16 AM) reply+ / -
I was reading about the error and another user had an issue with the swing guide plastic falling into the pickup assembly...the swing arm on this printer has in similar shape with the plastic being brittle (I had to use new larger self-tapping screws to fix it properly).
I did this this morning, it only took about 20 mins and was my first time doing this beyond the swingarm guide and removing the Image Drive assembly which gave me some practice :). It's really an easy job IMHO if you have the HP manual downloaded.
Took off the right cover, the right swing arm, left swing arm (probably not needed), the swing rod guide, the unclipped the harnesses on the pick up/feed assembly as well as unloomed the harness and the 5 screws that hold it. Then two more on the solenoid behind it and a cable or two...then that gear that was right off the solenoid had a visible offending piece of plastic, this step is page 224 in the repair manual, steps 16-19 ish, the double gear assembly that is there when you remove the pickup solenoid had the sliver of plastic from the swing arm assembly between the two gears.
Prints great again. The swing arm assembly seems to be falling apart on alot of these...may explain the large amount of 59.99 errors being reported lately.
First you'll have to remoe the door panel and all the little pieces: Remove the little plastic slide piece that locks the door (I'm assuming if you have power windows you have power doors too) Then remove the plastic cover under the door hande. (Pry up with a flathead screwdriver) This will reveal a bolt/screw that needs to be removed. Then pry up the plastic cover that the power door lock switch is on.
Disconnect the wire and set the plastic cover aside. Then remove all the screws along the bottom of the door trim. Remove two srews in a triangular plastic cover, up by the top of the door, by the window and then remove the plastic cover.
Pull out the door panel along the front and back, (it's only connected now by plastic clips/pins.) Pull up on the door panel and it should become loose. You'll have to losen the seat belt to pull the panel away from the door. The panel will remain connected to the door by the seat belt. This is a pain and will keep the door trim in your way the whole time! Carefully pull down the clear plastic vapor barrier.
The window should be halfway down. The lifting arm will be attached to the glass window with two bolts, one on each side. loosen, but do not remove the bolts. (Move the window up and down a little to get it in the best position to reach the bolts.) Be very carful not to break the glass. Disconnect thewindow from lifting arm after you've loosened the bolts, by pulling down on the lifting arm or use the power windowswitch to move the lifting arm down a little.
Tape the window up to the frame so it doesn't fall down while your working. There are two bolts attaching the botom of lifting arm to the door frame, remove them. Disconnect the wire clip from thewindow motor. The Power window motor is attached with 4 rivits. You will have to drill them out and then chop off the rivit heads with a chisel or screwdriver to remove the rivits. The whole assembly can now be removed through the large opening in the door. The window motor is attached to the lifting arm with 3 rivits, they will also have to be drilled out.
***Danger*** the lifting arm is attached to the motor with a large tightly wound spring. This must be secured or locked in place with a hole drilled in the unit and a bolt inserted or it will spring apart and may cause injury!! Also it will be impossible to re-attach the spring correctly if it does come off. Remove the motor and replace it with the new one. The new motor comes with it's own screws so use them to re-attach the new motor to the lifting arm, instead of rivits. Re-install the unit in the reverse order. The motor will have to be mounted to the door frame with 4 new rivits. There is no space to use bolts or screws.
Hope this helps.
I do not have a problem w/the upper arm not spinning. Rather, the upper arm keeps falling off of my frigidair dishwasher. The owner's manual suggests the upper arm is a single unit. However, the upper arm component is comprised of 3 parts. The parts are an arm that distributes the water, the base that screws to the top of the dishwasher, and a small plastic type washer that rides in the base and literally holds the arm to the base. The plastic washer has two small clips that tend to wear or contrast with age; thus letting the arm fall off on a very frequent basis.
Potentially, the small plastic washer piece may have broken in the base assembly and is not allowing the arm to turn. As water flows into the arm from a hole in the base; suggesting the plastic washer may be jammed with a foreign item seems less likely. The base unit screws to the top of the dishwasher and can be removed by hand (the base is a little tight). There are no mechanical pieces to my third (upper) arm; movement of the arm is accomplished with water flow.
You may wish to remove the arm assembly and check for a broken washer or a foreign item in the assembly. As a side note, I found that I can unscrew the base and remove the assembly without removing the top dish tray. The fit is a little tight but the tedium of pulling and reinstalling the top tray can be eliminated by unscrewing the assembly w/the tray slid forward for assembly access.
Hope all you have is a foreign item that is locking the washer.
you have lost the internal spring on the slide arm. a common problem but now the speed adjuster has been let go in the back of the motor. Best return to service centre as requires complete dismantle to repair, sorry.
I just had the same problem. Can you still hear the electric power lock operating and clicking? If yes, it's easy to fix. Get the window down, so you can se the actuator motor through the gap and most likely the metal arm which connects to the lock felt just about half an inch down through the actuators connection. There is a little round hole at the end of the actuator where the arm is supposed to go through. The arm operating the lock is running just below the motor all the way through the door. This happens a lot when the silly plastic connection to the inside door button felt apart and got lost (AMERICAN MADE ...haha). The inside button doesn't operate anymore and the little steel arm is hanging free and is only connected to the actuator motor's arm through a little whole with some rubber. With enough vibration and door slamming it might eventually become loose and fall down, leaving the actuator working but not connected to the lock... Now, just get an old coat hanger, bend the wire like a hook and pull the arm below the actuator towards the front. The door will be unlocked. Now loosen the screws on the door handle and remove the clip on frame around the inside handle. Then carefully pull out the door panel starting at the bottom, then the sides (it's a little hard to get out - be careful not to brake the plastic parts). Once it's loose, push it upwards - it's sitting on the window frame. You can access everything easily now and reconnect the arm through the hole at the end of the actuator. Secure it with some cable binder around the top if you want - if the little connection knob on top of the steel arm is wrapped in a cable binder, it won't fall down again. Check if it works, put it back together, DONE!
I just had the same thing happen and fixed it!
You might need to remove the upper rack first.
In the "Roof" of the dishwasher, you should see what looks like a plastic gear wheel. It will screw off, but you will need to put a little force to get it started. Inside of the gear is a free floating plastic ring with 2 small teeth on one side. Make sure the teeth are facing down through the center hole of the wheel. Hold the ring with one finger, and snap the spray arm back in place. Just screw the assembly back into the washer and all is good... Until it falls out again...
I had the same problem, the 3rd level spinner falling off. Without getting into my saga story, save yourself some $$$.
-You will need a screw & washer to replace the plastic thumbtack. The screw will have to be able to screw into the female part of the spinner; the washer will keep the screw from falling out of the hole in the flat hose on the ceiling of the dishwasher.
-If you look closely at the spinner(the part that keeps falling off), you will notice it comes apart. With a flat head screwdriver, separate the 2 parts. (there are 3 parts all together; Keep the round center piece sticking out of the top peice)
--Remove the top drawer of the dishwasher to give you some room to work
-Remove the screw on the "ceiling" of the dishwasher(it is located further back from where the spinner goes) to allow the flat pastic tube to come down low enough for you to get in behind it.(set that screw aside in a safe place; you will put it back later)
-Remove the pastic thumbtack from the hole in the flat plastic tube if it is there & replace with a washer and screw.
-Take the top 2 peices of the spinner, together as assembled & screw the screw into the female portion of the spinner.
-snap on the 3rd piece of the spinner
-replace the screw you took out earlier, securing the flat plastic tube.
-place top drawer
Voila, you are done!! You just saved yourself $20+