Replace cord
0) Unplug the iron.
1) Remove the (2 or more) screws holding the plastic bottom plate (that the iron stands up on).
The screws are likely to be #20 Torx "Security" screws -- for which you will need a special bit for your nut/screwdriver. A kit of various sizes of Torx security bits will cost you about $10.
2) Remove the plastic cord-holder assembly from the iron.
2a) If the cord-holder is held in place with screws (you are in luck!), simply unscrew them. If you see no screws, then it is being held in place by several (probably 4) plastic tabs that you must simultaneously release. This makes the job much more fiddly. Use a small/medium blade screwdriver to carefully bend and hold each of the plastic tabs out of the way of the latches. You'll need one screwdriver per tab/latch! Take care not to break the tabs...
2b) Carefully wiggle/pull/work the cord-holder assembly out of the iron taking care not to bend the pins of the integral plug (inside the iron) that are seated in the cord-holder socket. Basically, with the iron resting on its metal surface, pull/pry/wiggle the cord-holder straight upward until the cord-holder (socket) pulls free of the (3 or more) stiff wires that function as a "plug".
3) Note that there are 2 crimp-on connectors attaching the 2 wires of the cord to the rest of the wires in the iron. Take a photo of the wires and jot down notes of which wires are connected together. NOTE: One of the cord wires is "neutral" and is attached to the wider spade at the plug end of the cord. Typically the "neutral" wire is marked with a white stripe or ridge down length of the cord. Don't mix up the "neutral" wire and the "hot" wire when you re-connect them in a later step!
4) Cut off the crimp-on connectors and separate all the wires.
5) Remove the cord from the system of zig-zagging "strain-relief" notches that hold the cord securely in place. You may have to remove a small plastic clip first.
6) Cut off 6 inches of the cord. (Or supply a new cord, if the cord has been shortened too much in previous repairs.) This eliminates the broken section wire within the cord. You may use an ohm meter to verify that both wires have a low resistance again (less than 1 ohm).
7) Route the cord back into the "strain-relief" notches in the cord-holder. Don't forget the plastic clip (if there was one)...
8) Strip all wires, exposing about 3/8" of copper on each.
9) Referring to your notes and photo, re-connect all wires using proper-sized plastic wire-nuts for secure connections.
10) Re-attach the cord-holder to the iron body. Make sure you line up the stiff wire pins with the cord-holder socket. Push the cord-holder into place and secure it (via screws or snap-in-place plastic tabs).
11) Replace the plastic cover, taking care to position the wire-nuts and wires to allow it to drop into place without forcing it. Secure the cover with screws.
12) Plug in the iron and test it out!
SOURCE: Rowenta Steam Iron Leak
I have purchased two Rowenta irons. Both have the problem with water leakage. The entire iron looses all of it's water....both in the stand up position and the sitting down position. This happened after a couple of months for both items. I contacted Rowenta and they never responded. I will never purchase another item from them. Obviously, the irons must be defective. I'm going to contact consumer affairs.
SOURCE: need to know how to clean a rowenta iron plate
As long as it's not a coated surface - plain steel - get 0000 steelwool to rub it with. It will take some elbow grease but it will work to clean and (almost) polish the surface.
SOURCE: Rowenta Iron
Special screw called "Torx tamper proof" call 925 8271011 and order "Rowenta tool" $10.00 plus shipping-this place also sells Rowenta parts
SOURCE: Iron spits out rusty water. The iron is a Rowenta
Fill it with a mix of 50% white vinegar and 50% water. Let it set for 30 minutes and steam it out for about 2 minutes. Unplug it and dump it. After it cools colpletely, fill it with water and steam it out. The rust is coming from your water supply, not the iron.
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