Question about Water Heaters

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One cold water valve under bar sink

Oops, when I connected the the supply line to faucet, water shoots out the hot open connection, how do I cap that off?

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  • Water Heaters Master
  • 3,368 Answers

Just cap the open hot connection. When the valve is set to any intermediate position between hot and cold water will flow from the hot side to the cold side if there is any pressure difference. In your case the difference is your water pressure. You did nothing wrong you just did not finish the install.

Posted on May 03, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Water is either hot or cold - no in between.

I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.

So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

gary1121
  • 332 Answers

SOURCE: grundfos recirculating retro fit hot water out of the cold side

they have it installed wrong it is pulling from the wrong side, it is supposed to pull ot water up to the fixture but then if it stays hot on the cold side they are backwards

Posted on May 29, 2009

rick_stokes_
  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: No water pressure in bath tub after turning off hot water heater

It could be back flowing into the hot water heater tank which is not full because of the leak. Even though the valve is closed on the cold water entry side, there is probably no valve on the exit side. That is how it is returning to the tank.

Posted on Sep 19, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you very much, Rick! "

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Problem with valves in Grundfos hot water recirculation system.

Yes, you need to replace it.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: 2010 view winn- the hot water faucets, when wide

Double check that washers inside fittings attached to back of tank, are not wedged or pinched in there restricting flow. Drain tank, relieve water pressure prior, obviously. The other thing is to check that the by-pass is allowing good flow in to tank when in normal operation mode. Have seen those only go half way inside valve, but lever is at wide open setting. If all that checks out, try removing the check valve on tank, and replace it with a 1/2" galvanized pipe nipple, ( or certified plastic/nylon fitting same size) and reconnect water line direct to that, without a check valve. That should do it if nothing else was wrong. Now you have a choice, either change it or leave it out if everything seems ok, but double check that hot water isn't siphoning back to another utility such as toilet if you leave it out and toilet is close. Feeling that cold line (inlet) when water is hot should tell you. I've seen the check valve in both locations, hot (at top of tank) and cold (at bottom of tank -inlet) Not 100% sure why, right from factory that way, but I say, put it on bottom fitting if required at all. Let me know how you make out.

Posted on Oct 21, 2010

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1 Answer

Not a water heater problem, it is a faucet to valve connection issue


You can do this one of two ways:

Get an appropriate sized plumbing plug for the unused line. This will mean you only get water from the cold side and no flow from the other, or...

Get an appropriate "T" fitting and connect both lines from the faucet together, then run your supply line to the "T". This will mean you get the same pressure regardless of the cold/hot orientation of the handle.

I have used the second solution for deep sinks where hot water is not readily available.

Mar 23, 2014 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

One cold water valve under bar sink


You people are hard to help. If it is not galvanized pipe, you can put a sharkbite cap on it. Pipe composition is kind of important detail.

Mar 23, 2014 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

I am losing water pressure, but only on the hot side. Cold pressure is fine, as you add hot the pressure fades, the hotter the less pressure. This is at all points in the house. The water heater was...


You have a clog in the hot water line.
If problem is at one faucet, then remove aerator and clean, then disassemble lines underneath sink.

If problem is at every faucet, then that moves search close to water heater.
Look at hot water line that exits water heater and trace that line to first Tee.
Look at cold water line that enters water heater and trace that line to Tee.
Clog is located between those 2 Tees.

Buy pressure tester that connects to hose thread.
geno_3245_251.jpg
Connect pressure gauge to hot water heater drain valve.
Then conduct same test you did at faucet.
See if pressure drops at tank.

If pressure drops, then clog is on cold side of tank, and probably hot side too.
If pressure does not drop, then clog is on hot side of tank.

Suspect 1 is any place two different metals join. For example galvanized pipe and copper.
Suspect 2 is supply pipes that exit top of tank. Take apart and look inside pipes for corrosion and sediment lining pipe walls.
Suspect 3 is elbow. Disassemble pipes and look for sediment and flakes of rust.
Suspect 4 is all suspects above, each having sediment and corrosion.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Jan 19, 2011 | Rheem 50 Gallon FVR NATGAS Water Heater...

1 Answer

We noticed water beginning to mist out of what appears to be the supply line (the braided line, not the copper line). That same braided line is connected to the line in the wall...and the top of the water...


If you can shut the cold water off at the water heater you should not have to turn the water off outside. Drain hot water from taps at lowest point in house, hook a hose up to boiler drain at base of WH and drain some water from here. Do as you stated and shut gas off to be safe. Change supply line.
RJ

Jan 08, 2011 | General Electric GE SmartWater Household...

1 Answer

Turned off the hot water to fix a leaking tap. now the tap has no hot or cold water and the hot water tank valve is leaking?


It sounds like two problems.
Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet
Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet.
My bet is clog inside faucet.

If you have galvanized pipe that meets copper pipe, this can be trouble spot.
Article on clogged water pipes at Inspectapedia:
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pipe_Clog_Repair_Guide.htm

Article on clogged pipes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/backflushing.html

Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?

If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.

If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.

If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating.
New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe.

Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house:
Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.

Test pressure on outdoor spigot.
Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.

Test pressure on water heater drain valve.
This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.

If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect.
If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow.

Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank.
Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.


Nov 16, 2010 | Rheem Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve

1 Answer

Have a 2005 coach w/Atwood DSI-RV 6 gal water heater. Gas lights, heater fires and gets hot, but doesn't transfer the hot water through the lines to the sink faucets. jwmystery@aol.com


You need to check by-pass valve(s) on back of tank for proper position. You need cold open going in to bottom tank fitting, and hot open at top. If any valves in between those 2 lines via "T"'s, turn them to off position.

Oct 29, 2010 | RTO Atwood DSI-RV Water Heater-6 Gallon

2 Answers

No water pressure in bath tub after turning off hot water heater


It could be back flowing into the hot water heater tank which is not full because of the leak. Even though the valve is closed on the cold water entry side, there is probably no valve on the exit side. That is how it is returning to the tank.

Sep 14, 2009 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

3 Answers

Water is either hot or cold - no in between.


I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.

So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?

Nov 28, 2008 | Water Heaters

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