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It sounds like the element is missing one side of the 240v power. One side may always be hot while other side is controlled. A qualified repairman can Start at the element and work backwards. Trace wiring back looking for burned wire, bad connections and connectors, all the way back to thermostat. Check thermostat for continuity (with power off), replace thermostat if necessary.
Strange one this. According to the wiring and circuit diagrams, the yellow wire from the fan should go to contact 4 on the main oven switch. The oven element is connected to the thermostat, which in turn is connected to contact 3 on the oven switch. When the oven is on the handbook says that contacts 1,3 and 4 are made, contact 1 being the oven lights. So if the lights come on and the fan turns, the switch is more or less working. The only other thing that overrides the oven element is the thermal cutout. If you still have the problem, let me know what the thermostat neon is doing in all of this. It will be interesting to see what this is doing. Also, if you want the handbook which includes the diagrams, post your email address and I will send you a pdf copy.
Hi, i found out from Thermador customer service that error code F64 means that the lower fan switch (located inside the bottom trim on the right side) is not being detected as closed. In my case, this was because the header (P4) on the Display panel had broken loose from the PC board and was no longer making contact. P4 is where the lower fan switch wires connect to the control boards (actually the display panel).
HI, Sounds like your from the UK If you are referring to a trip switch as being equivalent to an American circuit breaker. (Electrical safety device designed to shut down power to an electrical appliance). Then we are on the same page. Do the following diagnostic procedure: 1 SHUT DOWN THE POWER SUPPLY TO THE OVEN. I.E. THE TRIP SWITCH/CIRCUIT BREAKER. 2 Open the oven door and look very carefully with a flashlight at
the heating element. Look at the the entire element. If
it blew (similar to when a light bulb blows) you will find white
powder around the hole in it or it will be completely broken, or have
bubbles in it. Some indication like that. If so it has failed and
must be replaced. It is probably tripping the switch because it is shorting out somewhere. There is also the possibility that the internal wiring connectors to where the element is mounted into the oven walls is broken off and short circuiting against the oven chassis (walls). That being the case, it may be just a wiring repair in which you install new appropriate electrical contacts and re-connect the element. Hope this helps, Happy New Year, Mark
Hi,Everything operates normally, but the oven shuts off after varying amounts of
time. This could be a faulty magnetron, bad cooling fan (or just built up dust
and grime block ventilation grilles), bad thermal protector, faulty controller,
some other intermittent component, or bad connections.
If resetting it allows cooking to resume immediately, if even for a few
seconds, I would not suspect the magnetron or thermal problem as no cool
down time is required. It could be bad connections in the controller or elsewhere, a marginal door interlock switch, or a controller problem.
Jiggle the door to see if this will cause it to shut off.
If the magnetron was overheating, you would not be able to resume cooking
until it cooled and the thermal protector reset. If it just stopped working
(i.e., the filament opened), everything would appear normal but there would
be no heating. If the magnetron were shorting, there would likely be a loud
hum associated with the periods where there was no heat.
If it is not possible to resume cooking for a few minutes indicating that
something needs time to cool off, then the magnetron could be faulty but
check for the obvious cooling problems first: blocked or dirty ventilation
grill. Determine if the magnetron cooling fan is operating by listening for
its sound or looking through the ventilation opening in the back of the oven.
If it is not, there could be a broken or weak belt, gummed up or lack of
lubrication, other mechanical problems, a bad motor, or bad connections.
Extremely high power line voltage may also result in overheating on a
poorly designed or oven where the components are marginal.
Make sure the stirrer fan is turning normally. Should it gets stuck,
some models may sense this and shut down/restart.
Hello- This is a brand new model, but it works the same as the rest. Heat is produced by the elements. The fan has an element that glows when heating the air. --Convection oven glass gets hotter than normal fanless models.-- This is all normal operation of the oven. To ensure full life of oven, avoid using the 'self-clean' feature. Techs call this the 'self-destruct' cycle. Please reply to this post if info is helpful- have more if needed- Thanks- Ed
You really need to establish if the fan is getting a supply to it, if it is, and it is not working, then you need to fit a new fan motor.
If no power to it, then could be a faulty switch, or break in the wiring, a bad connection.or an internal fuse that has gone.
Hope this helps.
It is probably the overheat safety thermostat that is operating due to oven overheating.
Check to see if the top cooling fan is working, and if it is built in, make sure it has adequate ventilation.
Please rate my advice.