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Need Honda P/n 53765-S84-A01 power steering cooler tube new or used

Need to replace above part

Posted by Anonymous on


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Power Steering

power steering is a cycling system all you need to do is fill it and run the car

Posted on Jun 12, 2008

  • 319 Answers

SOURCE: need to replace transmission line to the cooler on a GMC Sierra

Its fairly easy, you dont have to replace the fittings at the cooler. if they are leaking up at the cooler, it needs to be replaced, but if not, its just simple line to line, not too long of a process

please rate well! hope this gives you the info you needed!

Posted on Mar 01, 2009

  • 14036 Answers

SOURCE: Leak in the power steering system.


Posted on Nov 12, 2009

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SOURCE: how to replace the oil cooler on my 2005 isuzu

Why would any car have a power steering cooler?
It could never get very hot, and it would not matter if it did.

Posted on May 05, 2010

  • 456 Answers

SOURCE: I need to replace Power

you have not actually said which model you have, but the following seems to apply to all nissan power steering systems.

Recommended fluid is Genuine NISSAN PSF or equivalent.
Refer to MA-11, "Fluids and Lubricants" .
which then says under the
*3: For Canada, NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF), DEXRONTM
III or MERCONTM or equivalent ATF may also be used.

basically NISSAN PSF (power steering fluid)
or equivalent. DEXRON III (most automatic transmission fluids (ATFs) are dexron III)

Posted on Apr 02, 2011

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1 Answer

What size power steering return line do I get for a 2005 Honda Accord ex

The return hose is pre-molded to the correct shape and is only available from Honda. They are not expensive. While at the dealer, get Honda power steering fluid and the o-ring for the pump

Mar 04, 2015 | 2005 Honda Accord


2004 Pilot timing belt replacement

(for the 105,000 mile timing belt service)

Part List :
-Timing belt: 14400-P8A-A02
-Adjuster automatic (hydraulic tensioner): 14520-P8E-A01
-Adjuster - timing belt: 14510-PGE-A01
-Idler pulley - timing belt: 14550-P8A-A01 (OR) 14550-PGE-A01 (there are 2 numbers listed)
-Alternator/Compressor belt: 38920-P8F-A02
-Power steering belt: 56992-P8A-A01
-O-RING (8.8X1.9): 91302-GE0-000
-Fender trip clips (X7): 91501-S04-003

Special Tools Needed:
Honda Crankshaft Pulley Removal Tool
3/4" breaker bar

-Remove tire and place the Pilot on a jack stand.

-Remove the clips holding the fender liner and lower splash shield in place (x7) and fold them out of the way.

-Make sure the #1 piston is on top dead center using the marks on the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover (19mm in the crank pulley).

-Remove the Alternator-Compressor belt (14mm boxend) & Power Steering belt. (2-12mm and 1-12mm tensioner bolt)

-Loosen the crank pulley. If you have an impact wrench or a long breaker bar it makes it easier to remove the bolt. You will also need a special tool crankshaft pulley holder (50mm) (19mm and special tool).

-Remove the side engine mount bracket (5-14mm bolts).

-Remove the crankshaft pulley.

-Remove the oil dipstick & tube (10mm).

-Remove the front & rear 'upper covers' of the timing belt housing, moving the wire harness out of the way first (5-10mm bolts for each cover).

-Remove the lower cover (7-10mm bolts).

-Remove the engine mount bracket that is bolted to the block (3-14mm bolts).

-Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2-10mm bolts).

-Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleave) (14mm bolt).

-Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) (I used Loctite 242 during the reinstall because I had it on the shelf).

-Remove the timing belt.

-Before installing a new timing belt, make sure the pulleys, belt guide plate, upper & lower covers are clean and check to see if the crank and cams have rotated (mine did not move).

-The install is the reverse order of removal (make sure you torque everything correctly!)

-The removal of the lock pin in the hydraulic tensioner gave me a little trouble so I used pliers.

-Once the crank pulley is back on, check the lower timing mark (and the cam marks) before the top covers are installed.

on Oct 13, 2014 | 2004 Honda Pilot

1 Answer

Change the combination power steering hose which is leaking

Is it the power steering hose or a transmission line.Honda does not usually attach power steering lines to the radiator, but the transmission cooler lines are attached to the bottom of the radiator. If it is the transmission cooler line leaking, simply replace the line from the radiator to the transmission with 1/2 inch transmission line and some new clamps.May want to do both lines while you are making the repair.

Feb 22, 2015 | 1994 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Where is the EVAP solenoid value located on a 2004 Acura MDX

Hi All :

Here's some help to those who see that dreaded amber light comes on and a new EVAP canister is needed.

I just replaced my EVAP Canister & Shut Valve and it would have been great to have some guidance to reduce the time it took to do this job. I replaced these parts to resolve a code P1457 (Major EVAP Leak) diagnosed at the dealership.

1) Order the correct parts. The Canister is simple (PN 17011-S84-A00). However, you need to order the Canister Shut valve (PN 17310-S0X-A02) black in color with an electrical connector and not to be confused with 17550-S84-A01 VALVE, VENT SHUT (O.R.V.R.) which is white plastic and not the correct part. Order the 2 screws (PN 93893-05010-08 SCREW-WASHER (5X10)) that holds the shut valve on the canister as the old ones will be rusted and useless. I could not remove mine even with vice grips.

2) When the parts arrive, take a look and the canister and you will notice 4 plastic tube fittings at one end of the canister, thankfully all different sizes. Notice the one mounting bracket hole above all the tube fittings and the 4" slot in the other end. This is how the canister is mounted to the underside of the caricon1.png.

3) The shut valve fits into the large hole and is the only one, so no confusion. Use the O ring (taped to the side of the canister) to form and seal between the canister and the shut valve and use the ordered screws to secure the two parts together.

4) Jack up the diver side rear and remove the rear wheel. The canister is located on the underside of the card directly below the driver side passenger seat along with all the other EVAP components. The fittings end of the canister is closest to the side of the car (thank you Acura). Carefully pull off all the tubing making sure to not to create another leak by causing a hole the rubber tube. The largest tube (tank vent) you will need to squeeze the fitting to remove. Remove the one electrical connector.

5) Locate the mount bolt directly above all the tube fittings. Put some anti-rust spray on the bolt heat (it will be rusted) and using a socket with extension remove the bolt. Once out, pull the canister toward the divers side and it should come free from the slot bracket at the other end of the canister. The canister should come free and fall into your hands.

6) Locate the new canister into the cavity and slide the end into the slot. Push the canister up to line up the bolt hole and screw in the old bolt. This may take a few attempts as you pretty much have to do this blind. Connect the one electrical connector and the four tubes to the correct sized fitting. This tubes are formed to go to a particular fitting so there should be no confusion.

7) Wheel back on, jack down and beer in hand cause you're done.

Oct 09, 2012 | 2004 Acura MDX

2 Answers

I own a 1995 Honda Odyssey EX. My car is leaking power steering fluid. I was told that I need to replace a power steering "line" from the power steering cooler to the reservoir and a power...

Apr 01, 2011 | 1995 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

Need to replace the auxillary transmission cooler

The auxillary IS the second cooler. Theres only one radiator. Some have a engine oil cooler. If you see the cooler thats leaking, I dont see why you cant find where it connects?

Jul 23, 2010 | 1996 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

Windshield washer will not work. Replaced pump motor, but checked and original operates when directly wired to battery, so not pump motor. Next guess is switch in the control stem. How to fix?

You are on the right track. Whenever you can hook something directly to the battery and it works but doesn't work when connected to the wiring harness it tells you a few things such as: Short in wires, relay or switch bad, fuse bad.

If I were you I would first test the wiper switch because more times than not it is the culprit:

1. Remove three screws at the bottom of the steering column cover.

2. Turn the steering wheel to the left and remove the two screws that attach the wiper switch to the column.

3. Pull the wiper switch outward and disconnect the harness.

4. At this point you can do one of two things: Take apart the switch and find the contacts for the washer switch. They may be fused to a brass bar. If so separate the brass bar from the contact. You may be able to manipulate the little brass bar to work a little better but it is probably cracked and worn out.

The part number for the switch is:


Part# 35256-S84-A01

Hope this helps,

Mar 28, 2009 | 2000 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Find the location of relay assy 39400-s84-003

its usually under the steering wheel or behind the stereo towards the top

Mar 16, 2009 | 1998 Honda Accord

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