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The plastic insert in the top popped out

There is a rubber piece with two nipples that attach to the plastic. This plastic piece popeed out and I can not reinsert it.

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How do I remove the front driver side power window switch on a 2008 Buick Enclave



Armrest Door Pull

Remove Rubber Cover

Remove 10mm *****
The first step is to pry out the plastic trim plate behind the chrome colored door release handle using a small flathead screwdriver.Then remove the 10mm ***** behind the plate using a ratcheting wrench with an extension bar attached.
Next pry out the rubber cover at the bottom of the door pull located in the center of the arm rest. Use a Torx T-25 (star bit) screwdriver to remove the two screws.
Remove Torx T25 Screws

2 T-25 Torx & 1 10mm *****

Pry Up Arm Rest Panel
Use a flathead screwdriver to pry up the rear of the plastic arm rest panel. There is a plastic hook at the front of the panel, so only pry it up from the rear edge.
Lift Rear End First

Plastic Hook At Front of Panel

Power Window Connector
After you lift out the arm rest panel, you'll need to disconnect the power connector for the window and door lock switches.
Push Connector Release Tab

Power Connector Unplugged

Two More T25 Screws
Push on the release tab with a flathead screwdriver and pull out the power window / door lock connector.Use a Torx T25 screwdriver to remove the two screws located below the arm rest panel.
Remove T25 Torx Screws

Outer Edge of Panel

Push In Center of Fastener
Then move to the outer edge of the door panel and locate the two small round fasteners. Use a small screwdriver to pop in the center pins of the two fasteners.
Pull Out Plastic Rivet

Black Plastic Fastener Removed

Remove Lower Fastener
Pull out the two plastic rivet fasteners and set them aside in a safe place.
Pull Panel Away From Door

White Plastic Pop Rivets

Pull Off Sail Panel
Grab the door pull in the arm rest and tug it towards yourself to disengage the pop rivet friction fasteners that hold the panel to the door frame.Move to the top corner of the door panel and pry off the triangular "sail" panel. On some vehicles, the sail panel contains the tweeter speaker.
Lift Panel Off Door Lock

Pull Out Door Pull Cable
Lift the door panel off the door lock button and tilt the top of it out towards yourself.Use a pair of needle nose pliers to gently lift the metal ball at the end of the door opener cable out of the mechanism.
Disconnect the door cable from the back side of the door panel.
Door Pull Cable Removed

Disconnect Power Mirror
Then disconnect the power connector for the side view mirror by lifting up on the release tab. Slide the power connector off the plastic anchor on the metal door frame.
Slide Connector Off Anchor

Unlock Connector

Connector Detached
Look behind the door panel and locate the large wire connector with the pink lever lock. Swing the lever open to unlock the connector and separate it from the socket.


Door Panel Removed

Power Window Motor

10mm Bolts
Now the door panel can be completely removed by lifting it up and off the door frame.To replace the power window motor, remove the 10mm bolts.
Stock OEM Door Speaker

Remove 7mm *****
The stock "OEM" speaker is held in place by a single 7 mm *****. Remove it with a socket and ratcheting wrench.
Pry Off OEM Speaker

Speaker Removed

Disconnect Power Plug
If the speaker is stuck to the door frame, gently pry it off with a small flathead screwdriver.Disconnect the speaker's power plug by pressing the release tab with the small flathead screwdriver.
Fits 5.25", 6.5", 6.75"

Re-installing Door Panel
According to the Crutchfield website, the 2008 to 2012 Chevrolet Malibu's front door speakers can be replaced withaftermarket speakers in the following sizes: 5 1/4", 6 1/2" or 6 3/4" speakers with the use of a bracket.If you'd like to reduce road noise, make your car quieter and also improve the sound from your speakers, I'd recommend applying some Dynamat Sound Deadener on to the metal door frame.
Re-Attach To Anchor

Plug In Power Side View Mirror

Re-Insert Power Connector
To re-install the door panel, first hold the panel close to the door frame before re-connecting the large wire plug. Swing the pink lever closed to lock it in place.Slide the socket for the power side view mirror back on to its anchor and insert the power plug.
Lock Power Connector

Pink Lever Locked

Re-Insert Door Pull Cable Ball
Insert the metal ball at the end of the door opener cable back in to the door handle mechanism.Slide the black plastic cone part of the cable back into the slot in the door opener assembly.
Door Opener Cable Reinstalled

Hang Door Panel On Frame
Gently lower the door panel down on to the edge of the door frame with the door lock switch through the opening at the top.
Line Up White Plastic Fasteners

Push On Sail Panel

Push Door Panel In Place
Move to the bottom of the door panel and line up the white plastic pop rivet fasteners with the holes in the metal door frame.Push all around the door panel to re-insert the pop rivet fasteners.
Re-attach the sail panel at the top corner of the door frame.
Push Panel Flush Against Frame

Insert Side Edge Fasteners

Insert Larger Piece First
Next move to the side edge of the door panel and first re-insert the larger piece of the two fasteners. Then insert the smaller "pin" piece of the fastener into the middle of the larger piece.
Insert Small "Pin" Piece

Install Lower Edge Fastener

Tighten 2 T25 Torx Screws

Re-Attach Power Connector

Insert Front Hook First
Insert and tighten the two Torx T-25 screws located under the arm rest.Re-attach the power connector to the plastic arm rest panel.
First insert the hook at the front of the arm rest panel and then snap the rear end in place.
Pop Arm Rest Panel In Place

Tighten 2 T25 Screws

Replace Rubber Cover
Insert and tighten the two T25 Torx screws into the door pull cup. Then replace the rubber cover over the two screws.
Tighten 10mm Door Handle *****

Replace Door Handle Trim Plate

Malibu Door Panel Replaced
Replace the 10mm ***** that goes above and behind the door opener handle and tighten it. Pop in the plastic trim plate behind the door handle.

Apr 10, 2016 | Buick Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bleeding rear brake


this should be a simple job just loosen the the bleed nipple attach a short length of rubber or plastic pipe over the nipple and put the other end in the jar take the lid off the brake fluid resovoir behind the side panel and top up the brake fluid to the required level and press down the brake pedal until fluid comes out of the other end of the pipe keep doing this in a pumping action until air bubbles are seen and expelled then holding down the pedal at the same time tighten up the bleed nipple and top up the resouvoir and check the rear brake pedal to see if it works ok and feels firm

Feb 27, 2011 | 1981 kawasaki Z 650

1 Answer

Moen Kitchen Facet: How do I install the small plastic (blue and red) piece indicating cold versus hot water? Currently the facet has a small, gray rubber plug in place of where the blue/red pastic button...


What I have always done is use my pocket knife, and get behind the plug and pop it out. Then press in the blue/red plug with my thumb.

Hope this helps !

Nov 04, 2010 | Moen Plumbing

1 Answer

WONT WASH OR SPIN


It needs a drive coupler for the motor/transmission.

Unplug machine. Just lean the machine back, pop the two clips on the pump and put it to the side. Take the two screws out of the motor clips (usually 1/4 inch), and pop those clips off. Motor will come off. You will see the 3 fingered white piece on the motor shaft and one on the transmission shaft. There is a rubber coupler that connects the two. Replace which ever white plastic piece is broken, or the rubber piece if that is it. Make sure not to bang the white plastic piece too far onto the shaft. The shaft should go flush with the white plastic part facing you.

Put motor and pump back together and plug in motor. You should be good to go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLPGs2UMUJc

Jan 11, 2010 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

1 Answer

Kenmore washer odor


The most likely cause of a burnt rubber smell is a worn motor coupler.

Sears parts site

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.24922200&pop=flush

Go to the sub section with the brake/clutch/motor/gearcase and item # 13 is the motor coupler between the motor and transmission.

It has three parts. 1. A plastic piece with three prongs fits on the transmission input shaft. 2. A plastic piece with three prongs fits on the motor output shaft and 2. a RUBBER grommet with 6 holes fits between them.

Over time, the rubber piece can wear and the two plastic pieces can rub against it at speed causing a rubber burning smell.

Replacing one is easy.

Remove the cabinet, the pump (2 clips) the motor (two screws and clips) and the motor mounting bracket (two 1/2: bolts).

Remove the rubber piece and pry off the two plastic pieces. Fit the new plastic pieces on the transmission and motor shafts. Replace the mounting plate. Carefully line up the six holes as you put the motor back on.

Replace the motor mounting clips, the pump and clips and cabinet.

Sep 10, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

How do you take out a broken wall attachement for a pool polaris vacuum? the inside is stripped and we can't get the old plastic out to put in new plastic to attach hose to??


??? is the piece your trying to remove screwed into a coupling. If so use a hacksaw blade ,insert it thru the nipple and cut very gently thru the nipple in several places. !!!!!!! I repeat that is is very importand not to damage the coupling threads. When you are cutting do it a little at a time. As not to damage the threads. If you cut to deep you will ruin the coupling. If you are not sure of what you are doing get a serviceman to do it.

Jul 27, 2009 | Zodiac POLARIS 380 HEAD/HOSE INGROUND POOL...

1 Answer

Replace fuel pump


Fuel injection motors have in the tank fuel pump and screen .Access from under back seat,fold forward and move carpet forward after popping out plastic carpet retainer plugs.move floor plate,phillips screwdriver ,no need to unplug electric.remove gas hose,tuck forward out of way.unplug electric plug and remove screws from top of tank and gently pull up and tilt toward gas tank filler so that the gas gauge float and rod is not ruined.the plastic pickup screen will need to be folded to get out of tank.removing the float controll with small nuts is a good idea. the pump has a screw in the bottom that probably needs a vise grip if the phillips head rounds out. everthing is slip apart from this point.pay attention to plastic over the intake nipple and rubber o ring and piece up in the intake line.ebay has reasonable pumps.look at pictures and see the screen and plastic parts that you may need.the rubber on bottom of pump may need to be trimmed because of groove channel may have metal insert in your new pump. unless new one is with new pump.kind of tricky to put back together.but is do able .

Jun 07, 2009 | 1992 Ford Festiva

2 Answers

We just purchased a used '99 Starcraft Field & Stream PUP. There were no instructions for setting up the awning. I need step-by-step ''how-to'' help since everything I've found says, ''raise support...


I had exact same problem on my 93 popup. I finally figured it out. First, the poles with the plastic rings slide into the poles with the metal rings. These are the vertical support poles. Next, the poles w/ plastic nipples slide into the other poles with rubber ends. When put together the poles with the nipples should be spring loaded. These spring loaded poles rest against the top of the camper and the nipples are inserted into the 3 holes of the pole that go across the front of the awning giving you rafter support. The tension from the spring should keep the pole in place against the side of the camper. The first 3 poles with the plastic rings go from the ground to the front awning pole where the nipples can slide through the plastic ring and then into the awning pole. The vertical poles can be adjusted for height by sliding them up or down and then twisting them like a screw to tighten them up and keep them in place. 2 of my 3 vertical poles will not lock when I twist them so I have to get tricky with them. The metal rings, which should now be at the ground, are there so that you can stake it down under windy conditions. I hope this wasn't too confusing but I beleive it will help you. Good luck!!!

May 14, 2009 | Sport & Outdoor - Others

1 Answer

Kenmore Series 80 Washer - Water will not stop running


If the wash tub overfills without stopping unless the washer is stopped, this is usually caused by a defective pressure switch or loose air hose going to the pressure switch. The pressure switch is located behind the water level knob inside the console. It is common for the rubber air dome hose to come off and cause a washer to overfill. The console can be accessed the following ways:

If you have removable end caps, the will lift of by prying up from the ear of the console and pulling from the front. Sometimes inserting a screwdriver in the slot in the top of the end cap on the back of the washer and giving the screwdriver a slight twist can help to pop the end cap loose. There will be a philips screw under each end cap that will need to be loosened.

If the end caps are not removable, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of the console where it meets the top of washer on each side and push in to release the retaining clip that holds it in place.

Once you have the console loose, you can flip it up over the back panel to its resting position. Use care not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold the console to the washer.

With the console in its resting position, examine the pressure switch. It will be a round plastic switch located on the left hand side (sometimes located in the center) of the console. There will be an electrical connection and a rubber hose attached to it. More common than not, the rubber hose comes off. If this is the case, reattach the hose to the small nipple on the switch. Use care not to break the nipple. You can take a small zip tie and place it over the hose where it is attached to the nipple and secure it snugly to help keep the hose in place. Do NOT over tighten as you can damage the nipple. The zip tie creates enough resistance the keep the hose from sliding off from vibration over time.

If the pressure switch hose is still attached, double check your electrical connection. If the connector is intact, replace the switch as a last resort. If you can provide me with your model number (located under the lid along the wash tub rim) I can get a part number for you and let you know how much the switch would cost. I hope this helps you.

Dec 08, 2007 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

3 Answers

Replacement of Toshiba Satellite A135-4427 screen


  • First, purchase your replacement LCD display for your exact model of Toshiba A135. I found mine for about $110 with shipping.
  • There are five screws hidden beneath rubber bumpers around the screen. Carefully use a small flat screwdriver to remove the pencil eraser sized rubber bumpers - one at each corner, with the fifth at the top center. Make sure you carefully remove the sticky stuff they used to adhere the bumper to the screw as well. Set these carefully aside.
  • Remove the five screws and set them aside.
  • Gently press down at the inside plastic frame until it pops out slightly. Gently press towards the center of the screen at the sides of the inside plastic frame until it pops out.
  • Carefully separate the front and back plastic shell around the screen. Set the front plastic frame aside. You may need to loosen some of the white tape used to keep wires attached to the rear plastic shell. Gently lower the rear plastic shell away from the LCD, but leave as many wires attached as possible.
  • On the back of the LCD there is a large cable. Carefully pull up the tape that holds this cable in place and pull the cable down to remove it. You will also have another piece of white tape on the back of the LCD to peel back. The tape is important - don't tear it or get your fingers in it to remove its stick!
  • At one end you will see a set of a few wires plugged into a piece still attached to the rear plastic shell. Unplug this.
  • No wires should still be plugged into the LCD anywhere at this point.
  • Around the LCD there are six small screws. Remove these and set them aside. You now have now removed the old LCD.
  • Reverse this process to re-assemble.
  • You may want to use some blue LockTite (which can be found at hardware stores) for the screws as you replace them. Additionally, you might need a little rubber cement to re-attach the rubber bumpers at the last step. If you do not re-attach these bumpers, your screen will quickly become scratched by your keyboard touching it when the lid is closed.
Good luck!

Nov 13, 2007 | Toshiba Satellite A135-S2276 Notebook

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