Question about Dryers
Close door light comes on and the door is closed. Bottom dryer won't start.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Same thing as other owners above...Dryer is five years old and is in need of a good cleaning of lint build-up. Model no. PYET444AZW.
I put a large load of clothes, which probably should have been spun again, into the dryer. When I returned the clothes were still basically wet, and the light in the dryer would not come on, and nor would the dryer start.
Tested the circuit breaker. OK. Tested the outlet with a tester pen. OK.
So in searching the internet for a solution, I found and read this string. Found the fuse, called my local appliance parts store and bought a thermal fuse kit for CDN$48 (incl sales tax). Kit came with three fuses.
Just opening the top of the dryer was a chore for a complete novice. However, the entire top is hinged at the back -- so at the front of the machine, just gently poked a slot screwdriver in the gap ringing the sides near the top, twist screwdriver and lift. Big fuse is easily accessible at the top near the back of the drum. It's a round thing about the size of a quarter screwed into a metal frame with two crimped-on wires coming out the top. One screw to removed the frame. Then detached the crimped-on wires, and removed the fuse from the frame with two more screws. You will need a smaller size ratchet or nut-driver.
While you have it apart you might as well change the second nickel-size fuse, too, although it is more of a pain.
You have to remove the coiled elements, which are basically just big springs. They come out with one screw on the right and a little finesse. The second fuse sits on the right-hand side of the metal box surrounding the coiled element. The screw for the coil also held the frame for the fuse in place, but the frame will still be secured to the box with a couple of small tongues. So you will still need to kind of lift and pull up on the frame housing the fuse. It requires some patience and finesse. Remove the crimped-on wires, and change the fuse.
Of the two smaller replacement fuses that came with the kit, there was one marked for a gas dryer and another for electric. (The big fuse was good for both.)
Then start putting it all back together. Took me two hours in all. But now that I have done it once, it would hopefully take me only 30 mins. now.
Finally, my replacement instructions suggested cleaning out your machine and removing the lint and other burdens which probably overloaded the fuse in the first place. So I bought one of those specialized lint brushes to clean out the trap and the exhaust hose and vent.
Posted on Mar 20, 2010
It sounds like you have been through most of the areas too look.
One thing to make sure of is that you have a full 240 volts. An electric dryer can measure 120 volts. from L1 to common and 120 volts from L2 to common but you also need to make sure you have 240 volts from L1 to L2 on the meter, one leg of the breaker or one of the two fuses could be blown.
If this is alright you only have a couple components left. The timer contacts and the drive motor. Either of these could be causing the issue.
To check the motor with the power disconnected check for continuity between switch terminal 5 and the Green(black) wire on the motor. If you have no continuity the motor is bad. Check for continuity between the terminal 6 and the yellow wire on the motor, if you have no continuity there the motor is bad. Check for continuity between terminal 1 and 2 on the motor if you you do not have continuity the motor is bad.
The timer should have continuity between the Yellow and Grey wire terminals for the motor to start.
I hope this helps
Posted on Apr 23, 2010
Testimonial: "Great advice, thank you for your help."
SOURCE: when we push the button
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Posted on May 20, 2011
What is the model number for the samsung dryer? Usually when this happens there are small thermistors that act as safety devices in the dryer that will prevent the unit from running. For example there is a hi and low limit thermistor that if either will faulty the unit would not run at all the lights would come on but the unit would not run to prevent the unit from getting to hot. Message me back your model number and I will find your schematic showing the thermistors in your unit. You would have to check these thermistors with a multimeter and perform continutity tests on them to assure that they are functioning properly. I await your reply Thanks Rick
Posted on Jul 04, 2011
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