Clutch has normal resistance when pedal is pushed but I cannot get the transmission into gear unless the pick up is turned off.
Everything seems to be moving and the reservoir is full of fluid but the clutch is not engaging/disengaging. I can put the truck in gear while the engine is off and I can start it in gear with the clutch to the floor. It won't shift into gear while the engine is running.
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Re: Clutch has normal resistance when pedal is pushed but...
You missing just a little more pressure to the clutch. DOT 3 brake fluid absorb moisture and burn on very low temperature. First flush the system and bleed.some times revers bleeding help(pressurize fluid from slave cylinder to master cylinder).if you can't build pressure to disengage the clutch check the master cylinder for internal leak(slave cylinder retrieve back).replace master cylinder.
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If light pressure on your clutch pedal causes it to fall or easily be pushed to the floor and you cannot feel a normal point in which the clutch should engage it is quite possibly the slave cylinder. Most mechanic shops will tell you to replace the clutch and while doing the service they will replace the slave cylinder. Do you see or smell any brake fluid leaking? Brake fluid is used in the clutch hydraulic system. So if your brake fluid is low or you can see it leaking or smell it burning this would Point towards slave cylinder. There are other ways to check if your slave cylinder is working appropriately by looking under the vehicle having the clutch pedal pushed and seeing if the cylinder is engaging the transmission and then feeling for resistance.
that is normal if the gear synchro dogs ( teeth) are in line in the box
problems concerning a clutch are
slashing gears when trying to engage first or reverse with the pedal to the floor ---needs bleeding
slipping when the clutch pedal is released--- slipping clutch from the pressure not being released ---problem in master cylinder
reverse gear is the only gear not synchronised so even with the clutch depressed it is possible sometimes that it will not go into gear unless you let the clutch up to move the gears in the box then attempt to re-engage reverse
Well, it would shift easily with engine off, because the transmission input shaft is not turning. Engine running and clutch engaging good, the input shaft would again be stationary and allow smooth shifting. What you have to determine is if the clutch disc or pressure plate is bad (a new clutch is needed), or if the pedal hydraulic system has a malfunction. When you push the pedal down, a rod from the top of pedal pushes into the clutch master cylinder bolted to the firewall under the hood. This cylinder has a reservoir filled with brake fluid. When the rod forces fluid from the clutch master down a steel line and into the clutch slave cylinder down on the transmission bell housing, the hydraulic pressure forces a plunger from the slave cylinder to extend and push the clutch fork lever a small amount, enough to force the clutch release bearing (aka throw-out bearing) against the pressure plate. This relieves pressure on the clutch disc and input shaft becomes stationary for easy shifting.
is the car a manual transmission or an automatic? if manual there is a switch on the clutch pedal that wont let engine turn over unless clutch is pushed to floor.automatic it is mounted on transmission at the linkage.for auto trans you can move shifter back an forth while trying to crank engine. if manual you can push clutch pedal to floor hard an try to crank.
First you need to check if your clutch is moving. Does the pedal move freely and easily, or is there resistance? Second, does the throw out bearing arm move with the clutch pedal and cable or, when you move the pedal, is the arm sticking out of the transmission stuck in the pushed in position? If there is no resistance and the arm is not moving, you may have a frozen cable - there's little in the transmission to cause this problem since you stated you can shift into the gears.. You'll need a helper to push the clutch pedal as you push and pull on that arm. That arm will have either a cable or a small cylinder attached to it - I believe you'll find a cable. If that cable ( which is connected to the clutch pedal ) won't move then there's your problem. You may be able to lubricate it for a temporary fix but ultimately you need to replace it. If the cable moves fine as well as that arm then you probably have a broken disc in your clutch and will need to have it replaced. Unfortunately there is no quick fix if the cable moves. If it doesn't and you don't have any lubricating spray, get some oil from your kitchen and pour some on the end of the cable at the tranny and try moving that arm back and forth - you may need a screwdriver or other tool as an extension to help. Good luck!!
Fill the clutch reservoir with new brake fluid and kneel down beside the car, reach in with your hand and pump the clutch pedal up and down until it starts to return on it's own. Check the reservoir level, hop in the car and pump the pedal about twenty times with you foot, the clutch will self bleed and you'll be able to shift. If there is a leak somewhere, this problem will reoccur until the cause of the leak is fixed.
If you have a hydraulic clutch, it is conceivable that the fluid has leaked out. For areas of leakage check up under the dash where the clutch master comes through the firewall., or check down at the transmission at the clutch slave, which is the small cylinder on the transmission. You should also fill the reservoir immediately as well. If yours is the adjustable type of clutch, then you need to have it ajusted immediately If you would like to contact me again about this or other problems, feel free to do so. Bill ASE Master Technician