Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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Spins slow at any speed and seems to be off balance and spins rough

Can't seem to get it to spin normal at any speed or function. seems off balance or a bearing is gone

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  • 98 Answers

Sounds physical. Could also be one of the shock absorbers has come adrift or failed giving similar symptoms.

Posted on Mar 24, 2014


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Waher spin cycle out of balance

Sounds like your front to back spring is pulling to tight, sometimes you need to replace it and sometimes you can take it off and stretch it. hope this helps

Posted on May 20, 2007

  • 121 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite 45872 won't spin fast enough on any spin setting

check belt and voltage and try spin with empty machine

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: My 70 series washer does not spin. The washer made

The problem is usually attributed to either a bad gearcase (transmission), or a broken motor coupling.

Since the washer still drained, this indicates the drive motor is still working as the drain pump is driven by the motor. The easiest (and least expensive) part to check first is the coupler. The coupler is located between the drive motor and gearcase and takes the place of a drive belt. This type of configuration is known as "direct-drive". The following link explains how to access and/or replace the motor coupling (if required):

The motor coupling is comprised on three pieces (two plastic pieces with three tines, and a rubber bushing). Usually the tines snap off, the rubber bushing shears apart, or the center hole that the motor shaft is inserted rounds out and the coupling slips. Newer versions of the motor coupling have a steel grommet in the center to make it more resilient. The part number is included in the link I provided. A replacement can be purchased at for about $11 or $12.

If you inspect the coupler and discover that is still intact, I'm aftraid you may have a gearcase that has gone bad. The gearcase price averages about $150-$160 if you wish to replace it yourself. If you wish to pursue the repair on your own, it is not difficult. The following link explains:

A replacement gearcase can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

I hope I've given you enough information to work with. If you have any questions, or need assistance with identifying part numbers, please post back with your model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

Testimonial: "jsrock516 gave a fantastic reply to my issue. The solution was very thorough and he was extremely well versed with my appliance problems. Thanks!"

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 70 Series Washer Does Not Spin

First, see the Sears Parts Site for your washer.!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.20722990

Look at the section on the Brake, Clutch, Gearcase and Pump.

Top load direct drive washers such as yours (made by Whirlpool) use a number of devices to ensure that the motor and transmission don't destroy themselves.

One of the main devices is the Motor Coupler. This is a piece between the motor and transmission that is designed to fail if the motor or transmission jams. It consists of three pieces.

Two of the pieces (plastic) fit on the motor and transmission drive shafts and have three prongs. The prongs fit into a center rubber piece that is designed to frail if necessary.

If the Motor coupler fails, the machine will likely still pump water out since the other shaft of the motor is connected to the pump.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet on the washer and how to pull the pump, motor and (if necessary) the transmission.

It's not as hard as it may seem. It's also best to have someone help you because it's easier to pull the pump, motor and transmission if the washer is laid down on its' back.

The clutch is connected to the top of the transmission.

You don't have to pull the drive tube in order to check the motor coupler and clutch.

If the Motor Coupler is broken follow these steps to replace it:

See the following:

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

If the Clutch is broken, or the springs are broken they are an easy replacement.

If the Motor Coupler and clutch are OK, I's pull the agitators and the drive tube although they seldom break.

In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".

Many instructions call for a special spanner wrench to remove the nut. However,

You don't need a special spanner wrench. (About $20 retail)

I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen it.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.

When putting the washer back together, make sure that you align the tabs on the drive tube with the slots on the drive block.

If all are fine, it's likely that you have a transmission problem. I still wouldn't trash the washer since most parts in the transmission are easily (but messy since it holds 15 oz. of oil) and a lot less than a new washer or $170 transmission.

As an aside, the Sears site has part numbers and prices for the Motor coupler and a clutch rebuild kit (a lot less than a new clutch). You'll have to decide if the costs are worth it.

One of the good things about these washers is that they are relatively easy to fix.

Posted on Dec 02, 2009

  • 82 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Series 80 washer NO High Speed Spin

It could be a timer, motor or wiring problem. You would need to check for 110 volts at the timer or motor when in the higher spin mode. If you are getting 110v you have a bad motor. No or low volts you have a bad timer. The motor is either a 2 or 3 speed motor and you would have to determine which winding to check for the 110v. The schematic is usually glued to the inside rear cabinet. Please rate this post.

Posted on Dec 14, 2009

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Extra Spin cycle?

(I know this is an old question, but its probably a common question for new owners - including me a couple of weeks ago...)

Power the unit back on, press the spin speed button and it will select the "drain and spin" cycle. Pressing the spin speed button again will select different spin speeds as well as just "drain".

Something you might try instead of medium spin speed is to turn on "SpinSense". To turn this on (and off), press and hold the "Stain Cycle" button for 3 seconds while any wash program is in process.

What SpinSense does is measure the imbalance by doing a very slow spin before cranking the spin speed up (and measuring how constant the very low spin speed is). If the balance is out too much, it will stop, let the clothes drop, and then try another slow spin. It will try this over and over many times until the balance is decent. Then it will let it rip. It makes a huge difference, but it can spend a lot of time getting a good balance some times.

SpinSense also seems to be able to detect if the machine is shaking terribly, shut the spin down and try again.

Our LG 2688 is on our 1st floor (wooden floor). Without SpinSense, the vibration was terrible and with it, it is tolerable.

For some reason we typically get less vibration with "Extra High" spin speed compared to "High" so that is another option you might try.

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Not spinning in high speed

possibly a faulty "off-balance" detector, but not sure...try to purposely make it go off balance during wash...maybe a few pairs of sneakers?

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