Question about Ovens
Worked last night, now will not turn on. Is there a fuse on the oven I need to check/ change
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the fan oven element is separate from the grill element. the problem is that the circular element round the fan is blown. remove the back panel of the oven and you will see the element. replacement is easy. on most bosch, the element is removable from inside the oven but for some you have to remove the oven and take off the back casing
Posted on May 04, 2007
AMANA GAS RANGE
MODEL #ARG7301WW P1143323NWW
Hi Tamiw and oh Mighty Guru Text,.
I had the same problem with the oven not emitting a flame from the burner, but at the same time- the ignitor lit up and heated the oven enough to say it is 'HOT'.
It seems to be an intermittent problem';sometimes it emits a flame while other times I would wait 11 minutes with the dial set to 400 to emit flames.,
Detailed description of PROBLEM and steps I have already taken:
The Ignitor always turns on, and lights up.
1. After the initial cleaning of the burner vents with a coarse bristle cleanibng brush, I turned the oven dial on and everything seemed to be working fine. ie: ignitor turned on, blue flames came out of the burner and maintained a constant temperature.
Then,-after I had performed a "self-clean", to see if this feature would now work, it did! I used the oven for bake a few hours later......
The same symptom ocurred, the ignitor went on, but no flames were observed, YES, there was heat coming from the oven, but NO flames coming out of the burner mechanism:
The Ignitor turned on, but no "flames" were observed. Heat was given off from the glowbar, but no flames. I did NOT smell any gas, only what an inside of the oven smells like after cleaning.
From my records, I had replaced the thermostat about 4 years ago.
Today, I tried this again, and sure enough the ignitor lit up, and the burner was emitting blue flames. But when I put the "FLAME SPREADER" back, and turned the oven OFF, then on again to bake cookies, the oven didnt seem to heat up completely.
Could this be intermittent? or Could the flame spreader hamper the burner operation? (Earlier when I loosened the nut on the flame spreader the bolt broke. I tried to replace with another nut, but the bolt/screw was too short for contact.) Could this contribute to the problem? Does the flame spreader need to be tightly screwed for the burner to function correctly?
One thing I am noticing, is that it takes LONGER for the flames to come thru (than the average 90 seconds)
For example: Ten minutes ago I set the dial to 350. 5 minutes went by, and no flames, then set the dial to 450 after ten minutes oven was hot, but no flames?
I THEN SET TIMER FOR ANOTHER 5 MINUTES, AND 1 MINUTE LATER THE FLAMES TURNED ON. Total preheating time for flames to come on today = 11 minutes.
I have a "MULTIMETER" from DIGITEK Model # DS830B+ This should work to see the amperage, but I dont remember how to test it! the MAX OHMs are 2000, MA 200 Max, 500V
Can I use this to test the current? How would I do this?
Lastly, HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO CHANGE OUT THE IGNITOR> Meaning do I have to shut off the gas as well as the power circuit?
Ok, hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
SOURCE: bottom oven not working
A tripped breaker or blown fuse on an electric oven or cook-top, combined with an element that has stopped working, is usually a sign of a shorted, then blown (if the fuse or breaker no longer fail) element.
If you know how to use an ohmeter, you can pull the element, disconnect the wires from each end, then measure the resistance between each end of the element, and each element to the outer sheath.
A good element has just a few ohms of resistance between the wire connection points, and infinite resistance from the wire connection points to the outer sheath. Any readings other than that means the element is bad and need's to be replaced.
Posted on Jan 14, 2009
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