Due to heavy winter conditions (ice, snow, calcium), the metal pins from the brake system were stuck out in "brake" position. I had to disassemble the brake system so I could move on. Now I'm stuck with allt he parts and I have no ideau how to put them back together. I found no instructions or manuals regarding this issue. Thanks for your help !
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Brake caliper pins are frozen in place. Requires dis-assembly, cleaning, new pins as old ones are probably rusted, and re-assembly. Don't lose or forget to put the flat metal plate between the pins and the brake pad. If corrode beyond repair replace it.
WINTER TIRES As a mechanic and a shop owner I get to try out various types of vehicles during test drives. So we get to try out different types of tires too. We learn what works well and what doesn't. Don't kid yourself, all season tires don't come close to a quality winter tire on ice and snow. And when you add studs to a winter tire it makes them incredibly good. I hope they allow studded tires where you drive. All season tires work well when they can contact the road surface directly, but when isolated from the road by ice and snow they just don't work. The compound of the tire is generally harder to resist summer heat that wears tires out and with the colder temperatures they just get stiffer. The winter tire compound is a little softer which allows a better contact patch with whatever is under it and the larger tread gaps pinch the snow to gain traction. Another big misconception with tires is putting them on the drive wheels only. OK, why not you ask? Well lets start with one of the most common vehicles on the road today, a family sedan, front wheel drive. On these cars your engine and transmission is front mounted, so a good part of the weight is front biased. So that puts lots of weight on your front wheels. Weight =traction, right? So you put your winter tires on the front and your already used all seasons on the back. Imagine now cruising down the freeway in 4 inches of fresh snow, "man these winter tires are awesome !" But you need to brake in a hurry for a deer coming out. Well those fresh winters do their job OK but the lightweight back end of your car hasn't the traction to handle the maneuver, the back end is sliding around sideways...hang on to it!!! Well you get the picture now. You need all 4.
DONT SPIN YOUR TIRES
How many times do you see it each slippery day? You know, the drivers wheels howling for mercy as they attempt to accelerate. Many vehicles today are equipped with traction control, there is a good reason for this accessory to your vehicle. If you can accelerate without spinning you will get moving faster than someone who is, and under more control too. A spinning tire will often create a hot spot under itself, melt the ice or snow and make it even more slippery. You even run the risk of getting yourself stuck in the rut you create. A spinning tire also will go sideways easier, as it loses traction it also loses some direction. Granpa said to me sometimes...slow down and go faster ...I now have seen the truth in it.
If you are asking about the pull cord and when you pull it the engine does not turn and the cord pulls super easy it generally means that the dogs inside the cove assembly are not engaging. This may be caused by a broken spring or dog inside the pull cord assembly. You would need to carefully remove the assembly cover from the engine and pull the cord to see if the dogs are protruding from the assembly if not you would need to repair or replace the parts as needed if so then you would have to check if the will still extend under strain, if not then repair if they still protrude under strain you would have to examine the engine where the unit was removed and look for damage or wear and replace parts accordingly. If you are in fact asking about the front or snow auger on the snow blower itself then the most likely answer would be that you have sheared a pin which holds the auger to the shaft that rotates it. The shear pins (as they are called) are designed with softer metal to break if you hit a large piece of ice, stick or rock that may damage more important and expensive parts of the blower if they stayed intact during the incident. To fix this merely find the hole in the auger along the shaft that is no longer pinned (the auger should spin freely) spin it to line up with the hole n the shaft (which may still have a broken piece of the shear pin in it) drive out any remaining pin with a punch and replace with the appropriate pin for your machine. If the pins are intact you may have a bad belt, pulley, or tensioner and you would have to move further into the repair process.
If chucks are tires, you can never expect very much traction on either ice or wet manholes. Though, some are better than others, usually those with adaquate ice traction are snow or winter tires. For driving in constant ice conditions, you will need studs. But, studs cannot be used on pavement, at all.
See if the following information helpful:
1. Keep an eye on the dashboard for the indicators marked "SLIP" and "VDC Off" which will tell you the status of the computerized handling system if handling isn't normal. "SLIP" will blink when VDC is operating. "VDC OFF" means the system is off. Turn the VDC system back on if the Nissan's handling is poor by pressing the "VDC Off" button until the light goes out.
2. Adjust your driving if "SLIP" comes on. "SLIP" means the road conditions may be slippery. The VDC aids in steering and stopping, but be careful, even if VDC is engaged.
3. Remove any aftermarket suspension parts like enhanced shock absorbers if the "VDC Off" light comes on and handling is bad. The VDC system is geared for stock equipment and tires only. Use winter tires or snow chains on snow-covered roads. VDC won't substitute for the correct winter equipment.
4. Don't drive on very inclined corners with high banks and leave the VDC switch on if the handling is poor with VDC on. The system can't operate properly in that environment. Disengage VDC, or avoid those kinds of roads.
Better Starting Grip in Icy Conditions. A special Winter Flex Compound, specially formulated to maintain its grip under the most extreme cold-weather conditions, including snow and ice, to help deliver better starting grip and shorter stopping distances.
Better Traction In All Winter Conditions Cross Z-Sipes Technology uses a specially designed curve that locks the sipes in place, helping to provide improved grip on snow and ice. And because the sipes are full-depth, their grip lasts winter after winter.
Most likely, the caliper is stuck on its support pins and fails to slide on these anymore. (The amount of sliding moton, when the brakes are appplied, is very small.) When the caliper is frozen" on the pins, one brake pad wears much more than the other, and puts undue side thrust the rust on the rotor. This is a common problem in the "rust belt" where road salt is present (and yes, it can happen over just one winter season). If everything else about the caliper assembly is ok, the fix is to install new pins, bushings, pin seals, and brake pads. Also, lub the pin parts with appropriate grease at assembly.
Traction control systems measure wheel speed differences by various
methods to determine if one wheel is rotating faster than the other. A
heavier buildup of ice/snow could be affecting wheel rotation speed
causing the TCS to engage. ABS works by sensing slippage at the wheels
during braking, and continually adjusting braking pressure to ensure
maximum contact between the tires and the road. Suggest
clearing out the wheel wells now and periodically throughout the winter. Also remove ice/snow
build up between the wheel and the brake pads/rotor.
ya, and all the hills make it 10x worse. i'm from pittsburgh. it all depends on how much you want to spend. but make sure they are winter performance and not all season, they are better for snow and icey conditions.
Bridgestone Blizzak DM-Z3
Goodyear Ultra Grip SUV
Dunlop Grandtrek SJ5
Michelin Latitude X-Ice
Pirelli Scorpion Ice & Snow
Toyo Open Country G-02 plus