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Just cap the open hot connection. When the valve is set to any intermediate position between hot and cold water will flow from the hot side to the cold side if there is any pressure difference. In your case the difference is your water pressure. You did nothing wrong you just did not finish the install.
Get an appropriate sized plumbing plug for the unused line. This will mean you only get water from the cold side and no flow from the other, or...
Get an appropriate "T" fitting and connect both lines from the faucet together, then run your supply line to the "T". This will mean you get the same pressure regardless of the cold/hot orientation of the handle.
I have used the second solution for deep sinks where hot water is not readily available.
You have a clog in the water line? Or a faulty check valve or mixing valve?
Add a comment and say how you fixed the problem, or add more information about size of pipes. It seems like the cold water is getting into the hot water line somehow. There is no other explanation, as much as I can see from 800+ miles away. If you have crossover on a single-handled faucet where the cartridge is bad, that can cause this problem. Slab house can have plumbing in attic. It can be a chore to drop poly pipe down into walls, but it can be done with angle drill. Assuming walls are 8 foot high and pipes can be easily dropped to sink level where the sheetrock is removed and new pipes tied into sinks and tubs. This kind of DIY project would take a couple weeks working a few hours each night when temps cool off, depending on size of house and number of affected faucets. I live in Houston on a slab and ran my pipes in the attic when I built the house. Of course I worry about broken pipes collapsing the ceiling and filling the house with water, which happened to lots of homes one year when temps dropped to 4 below. I was in the painting business at that time, which was a boon to business for a few weeks.
Upvote the help. And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live. For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project. Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
It sounds like two problems. Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet. My bet is clog inside faucet.
Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?
If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.
If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.
If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating. New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house: Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.
Test pressure on outdoor spigot. Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.
Test pressure on water heater drain valve. This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.
If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect. If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow. Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank. Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.
it is because the tub has a temp control valve in it so if you were to put more cold with the hot it will last longer but still won't be all the way hot,, now a days people are suing the manifacture because they are getting burned form the hot water so they put these saftey temp controls in place of the old style 2 or 3 handle faucets,, there fo no more real hot water nothing you can do outside of change to the othere type of faucet 2 or 3 handle tub shower diverter,, that why the water is hot in the sink but not the tub.....
I had a customer a few weeks ago that had the same problem. When the water heater was installed they crossed the supply lines. They had the inlet as the outlet. Esentially, the water heater was plumbed in backwards. Also there could be a miss piping somewhere in the house but it would probably be near impossible to find it right now without tearing up foundations. Also check that the faucet is not plumbed backwards as well. Especially if this is a single handle faucet that you are referring to.
There is 2 ways to do this.
The first way is to turn off the power. Turn off the incoming water (cold) to the heater. Go to a faucet close to the location. Turn off the cold water supply under the sink. Open the hot water side of the faucet. Allow any water to drain from the faucet. Make sure that the water coming out is not under pressure. You should be able to tell by how it come out. Easy, or forceful. Now go to the heater and open the bottom drain valve. The reason it does not drain very easy is because you have a vacuum. Similar to having a soda bottle full of water and turning it upside down. It will drain but it will "Glug" and drain slow. Opening the hot side of the faucet relieves the vacuum and it should drain o.k. When you are done with your repair, leave the hot side of the faucet open and turn on the incoming water to the heater on. Let it fill till you get a steady stream of water from the faucet. This "Burbs" all air out and ensures the tank is full prior to turning on the power. When you get the steady stream, turn off the faucet and restore power. In some cases, the heater may sweat because you are heating very cold water. This is normal and will only happen this one time.
Now if you want to know the second way, let me know. I've done it dozens of times with plenty of success and minimal mess.
I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.
So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?